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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have an 02 typs s that is one of the burners. Burns 3 or more quarts between 5K mi. oil changes.
I passed on an offered ring job under warranty. A short block would have been better. I didnt want some pup at a dealer tearin my motor down the rings, ya know?
But now that it's paid off and i want to keep it for a long time to come, im wondering if this motor will hold up over the years or just get worse?? My bumper by the exhaust is even starting to get carbon build up

Has anyone here had the ring job and found it to work ?

Maybe i will take it in again and have em do it, now that's its documented from before. I just want the motor to last into the 200K plus range. I could always trade but who the hell wants another car payment.....
 

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Have an 02 typs s that is one of the burners. Burns 3 or more quarts between 5K mi. oil changes.
I passed on an offered ring job under warranty. A short block would have been better. I didnt want some pup at a dealer tearin my motor down the rings, ya know?
But now that it's paid off and i want to keep it for a long time to come, im wondering if this motor will hold up over the years or just get worse?? My bumper by the exhaust is even starting to get carbon build up

Has anyone here had the ring job and found it to work ?

Maybe i will take it in again and have em do it, now that's its documented from before. I just want the motor to last into the 200K plus range. I could always trade but who the hell wants another car payment.....
Carbon build up is semi normal.....

compound that area lightly and the carbon is gone for a while :thumbsup: (thats the only thing to date i found to get it off)
 

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I used to have an Isuzu Vehicross...some of those engines were legendary for their oil burning. I guess I should say 'oil consumption' since you never see blue smoke or any evidence of oil. The basic thought on those was that the small holes in the oil rings get plugged with gunk and they can't really control the oil on the cylinder wall. The guys on the Vehicross forum came up with a combination of seafoam and a few other treatment chemicals that reportedly cut back on some of the burning.

If you are looking at a rebuild anyway, you may do some searching on

http://vehicross.info/forums/index.php

and see what the latest treatment is.

On the up side (if there is one) all that oil slipping past the control ring is probably giving you a lot of upper cylinder lubrication - which is a good thing. As long as you aren't getting busted at emissions tests, burning up the catalytic converter, gunking up the piston face and exhaust valves, or getting engine knock because the oil is lowering your octane rating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll never know about immisions testing, they dont have that here. It doesnt burn any smoke per se, but it would be interesting to see if it would pass emmissions test
 

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Have a compression or leak-down test done to see if the rings are OK. If they aren't, blow-by gases will contaminate your oil prematurely and cause higher wear. An oil burner will shorten the life of your catalytic converters and O2 sensors which are expensive items.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
so it will end up wearing the motor faster, thanks Jay. During the original oil consumption test at the dealer, they said they did a copression test and it passed albeit it was on the low side of the passing scale- around 190 or so? cant remember. I think i'll shoot for a goodwill ring job and hope for the best
 

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my rsx has burned oil from day one....my gt-s did too. unless its an insane amount like aquart every 250 miles I think its pretty normal. stay out of vtec for a few thosand miles and see what happens. But I use mobil 1 5w30 which is notorious for burning. You guys thing I would do better w/ 10w30?
 
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my rsx has burned oil from day one....my gt-s did too. unless its an insane amount like aquart every 250 miles I think its pretty normal. stay out of vtec for a few thosand miles and see what happens. But I use mobil 1 5w30 which is notorious for burning. You guys thing I would do better w/ 10w30?
you'll do better with something that is not mobil 1, read my next post
 
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pasted this from another post I made:: you know, I've had this discussion probably a million and half times but I'm inclined to recap.

Burning oil on a k20 is considered by some to be fairly "normal" Heck Honda and Acura like to say that its normal on any of their cars. Well Its not, I actually think its down to the oil you use. I've done overly extensive testing with multiple oils, people that broke in their car differently, people that drive their car differently, etc. I've noticed a couple things.

First off, I used to own a 02-S and now currently own a 06-s and my girlfriend owns a EP3 and there are a couple things I can tell you for sure.

1) Mobil 1 is a great oil, however it DOES burn off faster than any other oil I've ever used. In fact my 06-s would burn off a full QUART of Mobil 1 every 3.5k miles
2) Regular dino oil doesn't seem to burn much at all, reguardless of driving habits. I tested this one myself.
3) Other members here as well as myself have tried driving the car differently, and contrary to what everyone thinks it makes no difference how hard you drive.(on a car that is in proper working order) I drove an entire oil change never using vtec and I burned the same amount of Mobile 1 as I did when I drove the piss out of it.

Now for a personal experience:

I run AMSOIL 0w-30 in my car and change it every 8k miles now. And make no mistake, my car gets driven really hard(redline every time I drive the thing at least twice). To this day, since I switched to amsoil, I've yet to burn 1/10 of a quart in 8k miles. Whereas with mobil 1, in 8k miles I'd have used almost 3 FULL quarts extra. So In my opinon its all down to the kind of oil you use and how it behaves. I personally would reccomend Royal Purple or Amsoil. Those 2 seem to burn off less than anything else in my car. Just to flesh out some prices also.

-->Amsoil 0w-30 for a BUYER is $9 a quart(which is super expensive I admit) so for a type S thats $60 for just the oil. The Amsoil Ea013 filter for the BUYER is $15, bringing your oil change total to right under $80 with taxes. No hassle, no need to check oil more than once a month, perfect peace of mind.

-->Mobil 1 is super cheap at about $3.75 a quart. so for the type S thats $22.53 in oil. With Mobil 1 I'd still use the amsoil Ea013 filter at $15 bringing the total to $37.53. But heres where mobil 1 doesnt shine. My car burns 1 quart of M1 every 3.5k miles so thats another $8.58 in cost and more trouble and less peace of mind. Your total is now $46.11 with taxes which still is cheap. But consider, you have to check it all the time, your car is always running low on oil to some degree unless your checking every 2 weeks(which to me is annoying), and lastly you have no peace of mind...your always worried about if the car yet again needs more oil. To me I'd rather pay more and be worry free.

Just my 2 cents
 
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