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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Okay I'm greasy and I'm angry.

I have the subframe semi-dropped (two fronts out and rears loosened).

All the bolts are out for the oil pan and I'm having the hardest time taking it off. Is it supposed to be that much of a bitch to get off or what?

Any tips you guys have I would greatly appreciate.

As for now, burgerking.................................

You know how theres a space in between the oil pan and the block? Well i have the closest to the bottom bolts off, as well as the big ones that connect the bottom to the tranny. I have the metal tray out and I've taken out the two bolts that ar up in there.

I'm saying it like this, because for those who did it I know they know what I'm talking about. :thumbsup:
 

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It is also held on with honda-bond. You need to put something between the oil pan the block, like a flat tip screw driver to pry it open. It is hard to pull it off with your hands cuz you cant get a good grip on anything.

After you have it off you have to scrape the old honda-bond off with a blade and apply a new coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
RSX_Turbo_9psi said:
It is also held on with honda-bond. You need to put something between the oil pan the block, like a flat tip screw driver to pry it open. It is hard to pull it off with your hands cuz you cant get a good grip on anything.

After you have it off you have to scrape the old honda-bond off with a blade and apply a new coat.
Thank you sirrrrrrrrrr :thumbsup:

After I take it off, I'm gonna take a picture and have somebody circle where the best spot for me to tap it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I was thinking since there was a flat spot there, I could maybe get a bar or something, place it there and use a hammer to bang down from above and it would come off quicker than me pulling on it.

I tried prying it, and it isnt budging.

Lemme know
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
FINALLY!:firemad:

Got that bitch off. Actually it was pretty easy when I used the right tool.

I used the fork end of a hammer in a small spot I could wedge it out with... I'll circle that spot. The helms says use a seal cutter, but naah.







Somebody take the last picture and circle exactly where the best place to tap it is.
 

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I was reading a book about custom turbo setups and there was a section on the oil return line. The author said that you want to tap the return as high up on the pan as possible to avoid any resistance to the return flow of oil caused by oil sitting in the pan. There was a drawing showing the returnline tap sitting above where the oil level is in the pan. The author made it sound like this was pretty important. Also, he cautioned against using a small diameter line for the return for the same reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yeah thats around where I figured.

The plan right now is to drill a hole and screw the fitting I have throug it. Put a lock washer and bold on the other side and tighten it down really tight. Maybe even put a few tacs on the threads so it'll never come loose.
 

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hey randy.. can you help me change my oil pan... ill pay you of course =P
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm not yet sure. Right now the plan is to drill ahole juuust big enough for the fitting. I actually want it to be so tight I have to screw it in. On the inside I'll get a bolt and tighten it down and maybe even put a few weld tacs on the threads to keep it locked. The last thing I'd want is for it to get loose again and I'd have to do it all over.
 
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