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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As I'm getting more and more seat time, I'm on the throttle more and more aggressively. This in turn is resulting in high oil temperatures.

My Defi oil temp gauge (with the sensor to the oil filter location) is reading 240F. My street oil temp is around 160-180F; occasionally, my street oil temp creeps up to 210F during a hot day in bad freeway traffic. The good news is that the oil temp cools very fast between track sessions. Regardless, having 240F oil temp seems a bit on the high side.

I'm thinking of adding a Setrab oil cooler to my car. Anyone else having high oil temps and/or running an oil cooler?

At what temperature should I start being concerned about the oil temperature?
 

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noob
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past 260 even the good synthetic oil start to loose viscocity, 260+ should only be seen on the worst, hottest, 110+ ambient weather track days on a NA car, so yes get a soild sized oil cooler
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
past 260 even the good synthetic oil start to loose viscocity, 260+ should only be seen on the worst, hottest, 110+ ambient weather track days on a NA car, so yes get a soild sized oil cooler
Ahh, I guess it would be a good time to add an oil cooler. As I get more seat time, I doubt I'll be on the throttle less.

I'm thinking of getting it done at Technocraft. They installed a tranny cooler on my buddy's 370Z. MotoIQ and Toda seems to like them as well.

Clint, what are your oil temps? What brand oil do you run? What viscosity do you run on the track? And what viscosity is recommended by OEM?

Too bad ARC is out of business because I would be ordering a custom ARC oil cooler core.... :shady:
 

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I'm in the same position re: higher oil temps with more track experience. I too was thinking of an oil cooler and was looking at Setrab and Earl's.

I only track a few times of the year so I'm not sure if I get full value and potential out of an oil cooler.

I'd be interested in hearing more about your oil cooler build as you go through with this project.
 

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noob
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Ahh, I guess it would be a good time to add an oil cooler. As I get more seat time, I doubt I'll be on the throttle less.

I'm thinking of getting it done at Technocraft. They installed a tranny cooler on my buddy's 370Z. MotoIQ and Toda seems to like them as well.

Clint, what are your oil temps? What brand oil do you run? What viscosity do you run on the track? And what viscosity is recommended by OEM?

Too bad ARC is out of business because I would be ordering a custom ARC oil cooler core.... :shady:

yeah faster pace will lead to more heat related to everything, water, oil, and brakes.

trans cooler on a 370? is it a automatic? was the place called technocraft or technosquare?

My oil temps on the worse worse days might hit 260, but usually even under track conditions they never get over 220, i have a decent sized oil cooler with ducting and a high oil capacity for a 4 cylinder(over 6 quarts)

my oem recommend oil is 5w30 like most cars, but most 5w30 oils are a ACEA 1 oil. its better to use ACEA 3 oils since they have better stability, sheer strength and viscosity characteristics under high heat, high load situations(track conditions)

during the cooler months i run Castrol synthetic in 5w40(acea 3 weight), and in the hotter months i bring the weight spread a little closer and run Castrol synthetic in 10w40( also a acea 3 weight)

ARC makes good stuff, but setrab and earls both make high quality core's the perform well, i myself am setting up a Oil cooler for my 370 made up of core and hardware from Earl's
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah faster pace will lead to more heat related to everything, water, oil, and brakes.

trans cooler on a 370? is it a automatic? was the place called technocraft or technosquare?

My oil temps on the worse worse days might hit 260, but usually even under track conditions they never get over 220, i have a decent sized oil cooler with ducting and a high oil capacity for a 4 cylinder(over 6 quarts)

my oem recommend oil is 5w30 like most cars, but most 5w30 oils are a ACEA 1 oil. its better to use ACEA 3 oils since they have better stability, sheer strength and viscosity characteristics under high heat, high load situations(track conditions)

during the cooler months i run Castrol synthetic in 5w40(acea 3 weight), and in the hotter months i bring the weight spread a little closer and run Castrol synthetic in 10w40( also a acea 3 weight)

ARC makes good stuff, but setrab and earls both make high quality core's the perform well, i myself am setting up a Oil cooler for my 370 made up of core and hardware from Earl's
Sorry, it was an oil cooler on a 370Z and it was done by Technosquare. Christ, got a ton of that shit mixed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I'm in the same position re: higher oil temps with more track experience. I too was thinking of an oil cooler and was looking at Setrab and Earl's.

I only track a few times of the year so I'm not sure if I get full value and potential out of an oil cooler.

I'd be interested in hearing more about your oil cooler build as you go through with this project.
I'll keep you guys posted. Normally, I would DIY this shit but I'm getting too busy to DIY shit these days. Probably just drop it off the shop and take a ton of pictures, lol.

Ideally, I would use a sandwich adapter that also has a internal thermostat.
 

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This may seem like a very ignorant question so i apologize in advance but are there temps with the pencils K20A2 oil cooler?

How much higher might they be on a k24a2, since they don't use an oil cooler stock :noes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i can easily hit 260F on a hot day on the track.
even more so with the turbo.

i was looking at this website for oil cooler: http://www.batinc.net/mocal.htm
Sweet, thanks for that link!

This may seem like a very ignorant question so i apologize in advance but are there temps with the pencils K20A2 oil cooler?

How much higher might they be on a k24a2, since they don't use an oil cooler stock :noes:
Pencils? I'm getting those temps with K20A2 with an ARC radiator and thermostat.

No idea with K24. And the K24 guys are hating on me in COTM; they wonder why I haven't moved to a K24 bottom with conflicting information on stock oil cooler and oil pan fitment and no information on track reliability.
 

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I like soup
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Damn, my oil temps are usually at 220 degrees just cruising around town. I'm gonna find out soon how high it gets on track. :noes:
 

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Form - Function
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Setrab cooler, oil sandwich plate with remote filter hook up, Earls plumbing and Earls inline oil t-stat...can't go wrong with a setup like that
 

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Setrab cooler, oil sandwich plate with remote filter hook up, Earls plumbing and Earls inline oil t-stat...can't go wrong with a setup like that
Do you remember which model of Setrab cooler you are using? I'm leaning towards a Setrab or Earl's.

Also, I'm looking at using a Mocal sandwich plate with built-in thermostat.
 

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Sweet, thanks for that link!



Pencils? I'm getting those temps with K20A2 with an ARC radiator and thermostat.

No idea with K24. And the K24 guys are hating on me in COTM; they wonder why I haven't moved to a K24 bottom with conflicting information on stock oil cooler and oil pan fitment and no information on track reliability.
Sorry about that, typed it on my phone
Pencils should have been "stock" :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Damn, my oil temps are usually at 220 degrees just cruising around town. I'm gonna find out soon how high it gets on track. :noes:
If you never tracked before, you will be going pretty slow on your first day so I doubt you will cook your oil. Save your judgements and conclusions on oil temp/coolers until after 1-2 track days.

Setrab cooler, oil sandwich plate with remote filter hook up, Earls plumbing and Earls inline oil t-stat...can't go wrong with a setup like that
Do you have any pictures of this? What oil sandwich plate are you using?

I haven't figured out how to keep my oil pressure sensor, [oil temp sensor, but can be moved to the oil pan], and still run plumbing to the oil cooler.

Sorry about that, typed it on my phone
Pencils should have been "stock" :eek:
Oh, lol. Can you confirm that the stock oil cooler does not fit the K24?
 

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I can't confirm that it doesn't fit. Someone i know on here fit it to a K24 block though, his sn is slama4 :)
 

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coredump, do you already have a k24 swap, are in the process of swapping or just contemplating a swap?

In regards to running the oil cooler AND the oil temp sensor, I think you can get one of these:



You can tee into the return line from the oil cooler into the sandwich adapter with this thing. You can find a bolt that fits the Tee, and then tap that bolt in 1/8 PT or whatever your sensor threading is
 

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I like soup
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If you never tracked before, you will be going pretty slow on your first day so I doubt you will cook your oil. Save your judgements and conclusions on oil temp/coolers until after 1-2 track days.
Lol... only about 10 events so far but I just recently installed oil temp and oil pressure gauges to monitor everything. The next step for me will be some type of oil cooling set up if its necessary.
 

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I've heard the Honda Challenge guys in H1 run their K series to 300 degrees. My friend's K series had the same oil temps while my car would hit 240ish max, never hit 260, or else I would have cooled down. I am on stock radiator, t-stat, everything, bone stock cooling system, but my car only saw Rosamond, CA.

BTW More importantly, I would look at your oil pressure. T9 at Big Willow is known to kill the B series engines, while the K series is the opposite. I have an oil psi warning light and it was come on pretty frequently even only on RT-615(non-K). Baffled oil pan at a minimum...
 

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Oil works best over a narrow temperature range of 220º to 260º F. Above 285º F motor oil oxidizes and begins to turn to varnish. Below 220º F, oil is too cool to boil off trapped/suspended water and excess fuel. General rule of thumb is that oil temps should be about 50 to 60º F hotter than coolant temperatures.

Be careful, just because the Honda Challenge cars can supposedly run their oil to 300 degrees, doesn't mean it's safe for anyone else to. Keep in mind that their cars probably have fully built race motors and run a straight grade oil, so it can take the abuse. They probably do engine teardowns much more often than a daily driven street car would in its lifetime.

Also, bearings like lower temps. The lower the temps, the longer the engine would last.

Baffled oil pan = :thumbsup:
Bearings and rotating assemblies in the engine are very fragile as they are. Although not the solution to all problems, baffled pans can help reduce the chances of oil starvation by a shitload.
 
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