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Discussion Starter #1
The DEI 530T window module allows you to control 2 different windows in both directions. Specifically, when the unit is installed with an aftermarket alarm (the Compustar 2WSS-AS in this case), the windows will roll up when the alarm is armed. Then with the remote, you can either crack the windows or roll them all the way down.

The 530T adds one-touch auto up and auto down to your windows even if you don't have an aftermarket alarm. This DIY shows how to make both of your windows one-touch from the driver's side controls.

First off, the unit is rather large, measuring 3 1/2" x 4" and about 1" thick. This makes it difficult to install in the driver's side kick panel like the instructions recommend. There are two wiring harnesses, both 3 feet in length. One is a heavier gauge wire (~14 ga.), the other is a lighter gauge (~18 ga.). Since the wires are short, the unit has to be mounted within 12-15” of where the wires come into the car from the door.



As for the installation...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Removing the driver's side door panel

You need to take off the driver's side door panel to gain access to two wires. Taking the panel off is rather easy, you don't necessarily need a trim panel remover like the Helm's recommends--carefully pry it off with your fingers. Albeit, the tool makes things easier.

Follow the instructions as shown in the Helms:




Once the panel is off, you need to remove the front half of the plastic. A razor blade helps to cut the gum-like adhesive as you pry the plastic back. In the upper right hand corner (circled in red), the plastic is held in with a round black clip. I just cut the plastic with the razor around the clip instead of popping it off.


 

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Discussion Starter #3
Running wires to the door

Next, you need to run 4 wires into the door from the inside of the car. The 4 wires are:

Brown
White
Blue
Green

The brown and white are on the lighter gauge connector, the blue and green on the heavier. The easiest way to run the wires is to run a wire snake (or fish) through the door grommet. The yellow arrow in the picture below shows where the grommet entrance from inside the car is. Run the snake through one of the small holes in the rubber piece above or below the mass of wires coming in. One the door side of the grommet, I pulled the end piece out from inside the door to try to make things easier (circled in red).




You want the connector heads and the rest of the wires to remain inside the car, only the 4 wires go from the inside of the car to the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Driver’s side window

Locate the RED/YEL and RED/BLK wires in the door. It follows the dashed green line in the picture below. Cut both wires above and below the blue connector. The RED/YEL and RED/BLK wire actually turn into blue wires on the other side of the blue connector, so just visually follow the wires through the connector to see what colors they become. The wires above the blue connector are a lighter gauge and match up better with the brown and white wires; the wires below the blue connector are a heavier gauge and match up better with the green and blue wires.

Also, cut the wires on the left side of the blue connector closer to the connector than what I did--this will give you a few more inches to play with inside the car.

Connect the wires as follows:

Switch side (to the left in the picture)
RED/YEL -> White
RED/BLK -> Brown

Motor side (to the right and down in the picture)
RED/YEL -> Green
RED/BLK -> Blue



I soldered the connections then used heat-shrink tubing around them, you can use crimps or whatever method you like. Just make sure you have a solid connection, especially on the motor side.

If you are confident in your connections, put the door panel back on and move onto the next step. You can test your connections by running jumpers between the Blue and Brown wires and between the White and Green wires at the harness heads inside the car. Plug the window switch back in, turn the key, and test the windows.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Passenger’s side window

Above the driver's side kick panel, you'll see a grouping of blue, white, and green connectors. Find the blue connector with the BLU/RED and BLU/WHT heavy gauge wires and disconnect it. It should be the connector closest to the engine, and its below a green connector (circled in yellow in the first picture with the connector unplugged).

Peel back as much tape and plastic conduit as you can to expose the wires, and find the BLU/RED and BLU/WHT wires. You are going to cut them and connect them in the same manner as the 2 wires in the door.

Cut and connect as follows:

Blue connector head side (to the left in the picture):
BLU/RED -> Blue/Black
BLU/WHT -> Green/Black

Wires running into the door grommet (to the right in the picture):
BLU/RED -> Brown/Black
BLU/WHT -> White/Black



 

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Discussion Starter #6
Power and grounding

For the Red power wire, connect it to a constant +12V source. I ran a separate power wire for my alarm, radar, and other accessories; so I just used that. Otherwise, look for a constant +12V source in the fusebox and tap into it there.

Connect the Violet, Violet/Black, and Black wires (all on the heavier gauge harness) to ground. I unbolted the 12mm bolt by the dead pedal, put a ring terminal on the end of all three wires combined, and grounded everything there.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
The remaining wires

At this point, all of the wires in the heavy gauge harness should be connected. The only remaining wires should be the Red/White, Orange, and Gray wires in the lighter gauge harness.

Red/White : (-) Auxillary input
Connect this to one of the auxillary outputs of your aftermarket alarm. A single pulse will crack the windows about an inch. If you have the alarm configured to give you a latch output, it takes about 3 seconds for the windows to roll down.

Orange: (-) Ground when armed
Connect this to the negative ground when armed output on your aftermarket alarm. This will roll the windows up when you arm your alarm. If you press your auxillary output on the remote before you arm the alarm, the windows will stay in their current position.

Gray: (-) negative output during activation
I didn't connect this with my Compustar alarm. It is supposed to be used to disable your shock/motion sensors so the alarm doesn't go off when you remotely roll down the windows. I think the Compustar alarm automatically ignores the sensors while performing the remote operations.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
rsx m-3 said:
Dude can you help me out. i can't find the ground when armed wire on the compustar alarm.
It's in Connector 1, one of the wires pre-wired into a relay. I think its the Purple wire going into the relay (not the Purple pigtail). Use a voltmeter and probe around to see which wire goes to ground when armed.
 

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probably should make a separate post for my clip, but here you go for what can be done. The one touch up and down on each of the windows is actually a lot more convenient than I though it would be.

http://rsxs.cdin.net/images/open.avi
 

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Discussion Starter #19
silver RSX-S said:
back from the dead, but can you wire the sunroof into this also? so all 3 work. or do you have to get the 529T
I have a 530T and 529T installed. The 530T is for the two front windows, they are one-touch up and down from the driver's side controls. The Compustar outputs can remotely make them go up or down.

For the moonroof, the 529T is only really used in conjunction with the Compustar outputs. The moonroof can open or close using the Compustar. If you want to make the moonroof one-touch up and down using the switch inside, you need to buy a 530T.

Keep in mind the Compustar only has 2 outputs so you can only do two distinct window motions. For example, I have output 1 crack the windows and moonroof. If I keep pressing the output 1, the windows and moonroof will inch open. I have output 2 set to latch instead of pulse, and it will close the windows and moonroof.
 

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hi, I want to install a DEI 530T to my car, i check with some alarm store and they charge 200 for it to be installed, do you think it's worth to let them install? this module is only $60 on ebay. Also, did you install your DEI 529T yet? Did you make it one touch as well? Thanks in advance!
 
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