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i linked this thread to some friends over on a focus forum im on. it should apply to all cars as long as the motion ratios are known right?


did that guy hit the ground so hard his shoes came off? wow.
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #22
the sprung weight and motoin ratios are different...but thats is....its just basic math.:thumbsup:
 

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what would be ideal frequencies for a car built for an st class, or better yet, how do we determine what frequency is best for a tire? i understand that a tire with more grip requires a higher rate, but how much is too much?
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #24
2.5-3.0hz rear,2.2 - 2.7 hz front with the new gen stickie tires...

btw....all the numbers in this thread are for a gutted ep3...if you want to use these formulas for a stock ep3, you will have different corner weights....Not to hard to work out......2750lb + driver or around 2950lbs...then just use the weight distro of 60/40 to get the ft and rear....or 1770lb f and 1180lb rear...then its just a matter of deviding each number by 2 and subtracting around 30lbs of unsprung wieght( wheel/tire,brakes and control arms) to get the working sprung weight numbers.....or 855lb ft and 560lbs rear.

I have thought about rewritting this thread using stockish numbers but then the issue of how sway bars effect suspension comes up:ugh:

they pretty much kill all this fancy math just like progressive rate springs would...
 

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2.5-3.0hz rear,2.2 - 2.7 hz front with the new gen stickie tires...

btw....all the numbers in this thread are for a gutted ep3...if you want to use these formulas for a stock ep3, you will have different corner weights....Not to hard to work out......2750lb + driver or around 2950lbs...then just use the weight distro of 60/40 to get the ft and rear....or 1770lb f and 1180lb rear...then its just a matter of deviding each number by 2 and subtracting around 30lbs of unsprung wieght( wheel/tire,brakes and control arms) to get the working sprung weight numbers.....or 855lb ft and 560lbs rear.

I have thought about rewritting this thread using stockish numbers but then the issue of how sway bars effect suspension comes up:ugh:

they pretty much kill all this fancy math just like progressive rate springs would...
that makes sense.:( ill try and ball park it though.


edit:
so something like a 400lb fr 700lb rr would be adequate. that's on the lower end of the frequencies you gave me.

im still mulling over ideas of what i want to do with suspension or if i even want to. part of me wants my second car to be the one i race while i keep the ep as a daily, the other part wants to get something sedate as a daily and turn my ep into a race/weekend car. all in the far future though. my skills aren't to the point to where im looking for more out of my suspension, i just like to plan ahead.
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #26
that makes sense.:( ill try and ball park it though.
I kinda like steves barless solution though....the only problem is that puts you around 1200lbs in the rear and that means custom tuned koni's or something else.....I think Tien dc5 N1's come with 1500lb springs in the rear....you could down grade from there.......:rotfl:
 

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I kinda like steves barless solution though....the only problem is that puts you around 1200lbs in the rear and that means custom tuned koni's or something else.....I think Tien dc5 N1's come with 1500lb springs in the rear....you could down grade from there.......:rotfl:
as much as i hate the pre-built set-ups, its looking like that might be more cost effective. the only one i really like is the progress kit because the rates it comes with are so close to what i need, but i don't like how they wont release damper information. im pretty sure if i call then and tell them the rates im looking at, they can suggest the best route.
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #28
The big thing is to stay away from sways on the drive wheels and use the non drive wheels to control body roll....with my current set up I have crazy amounts of grip...to much body roll at the limit but the grip is there. For me, I think 450-475lb springs for the front with no sway would be spot on for the front....then like 1000lbs springs with a 19-22mm rear sway would be real close to nailing it.... for my setup.....I'm going to have to deal with my toe issues first though....I may have to get those god dam mugen lca's.....600 bucks hurts though.:shakehead
 

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The big thing is to stay away from sways on the drive wheels and use the non drive wheels to control body roll....with my current set up I have crazy amounts of grip...to much body roll at the limit but the grip is there. For me, I think 450-475lb springs for the front with no sway would be spot on for the front....then like 1000lbs springs with a 19-22mm rear sway would be real close to nailing it.... for my setup.....I'm going to have to deal with my toe issues first though....I may have to get those god dam mugen lca's.....600 bucks hurts though.:shakehead
i read about that, something about not enough threads on your tierods?
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #30
i read about that, something about not enough threads on your tierods?
yea, when you have camber plates that angle in the tops of the struts in toward the center of the car and are close to the stock ride hight. You run out of threads on the tietods.
 

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yea, when you have camber plates that angle in the tops of the struts in toward the center of the car and are close to the stock ride hight. You run out of threads on the tietods.
there isnt a longer oem alternative that will work with our racks? what about crv tie rods?
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #32
I need shorter arms, I have the tie rod ends all the way in.
 

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Discussion Starter #34

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buy j's racing tie rods

i use them and still have 1/2 inch of thread left, with -2,2º camber and -1mm toe

and used them for four years with no problems
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #36
buy j's racing tie rods

i use them and still have 1/2 inch of thread left, with -2,2º camber and -1mm toe

and used them for four years with no problems
You are dropped, thus you do not have this problem. Lowering the car angles up the tierods up and angled up tierods have to be longer....Its when you keep the car at stock ride hight that you end up with tierods that are 2 long. Dropped ep3 handle like poop.:thumbsdow
 

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You are dropped, thus you do not have this problem. Lowering the car angles up the tierods up and angled up tierods have to be longer....Its when you keep the car at stock ride hight that you end up with tierods that are 2 long. Dropped ep3 handle like poop.:thumbsdow
i didn't get it at first either, j's rod ends would make it worse.
 

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You are dropped, thus you do not have this problem. Lowering the car angles up the tierods up and angled up tierods have to be longer....Its when you keep the car at stock ride hight that you end up with tierods that are 2 long. Dropped ep3 handle like poop.:thumbsdow
GREAT INFO
im gonna be dropped so need longer tierods
i'll probably get them from Todd
 
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