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OH SNAP!
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Ok well ive got my car up and running with kpro, its been running fine for about a month or so......... no problems whatsoever, ran great, ran strong, good times........ but one week ago or so i was out saturday night and i stopped for gas. I cut the car off and filled up "probably 2-3 min max". I get back in the car and start it "started strong and everything" and the check engine light comes on. So i was like uh oh what could this be? Gave the car a few revs, everything seemed normal so i proceeded on my way. But then after driving i checked to see if the car was in limp mode and it was....... so i was oh ok ill check it when i get home to see what happened. I get home and plug my computer in and turn the key to the 2nd click and it says theres (1) error code on the kmanger window thing. So i clicked on it and it read something like "Low starting current/voltage to ECU or something.... it only stayed up for a split second enough time for me to read it then it cleared itself or something because the code disapeared and the check engine light cut off :confused:...... i was like oh wow must have been a glitch or something in the system. Started the car up and it ran fine no codes or check engine lights and no limp mode. Ok no problems for a few days now. Started the car up again a few days later and there goes check engine light again. But since i was heading to class and had my laptop on me i was oh ok let me check what this code is thats causing it so i can tell someone and get some help...... the car is now running and idling fine but its in limp mode and check engine is on. I plug up my ecu to the computer while the car is running with kmanger open and as soon as i plug it in the check engine light turns off and kmanger says theres no error codes :confused:....... ok so im like whatever, the car drives fine and runs strong and everything so idk what could be causing it. While in class i though hmmm the battery or alternator could be bad and causing low starting voltage power or whatever, so i went to three different places after class and got the battery and alternator checked, the alternator checked out great at all three places and the battery crank power rating was 500 and i was printed out 513, 513, 514 whatever those numbers stood for. So now im confused because the car turns over fast with no hesitation and you can tell its starting fine plus it only happens sometimes not all the time. So today "4 days from last time it was on" i was going for a drive and i started the car and there goes check engine light again and the car is in limp mode. I turn off the car and start it again thinking the light might go off..... no luck. I drive to my gfs house with check engine light on and in limp mode. I cut the car off wait a few seconds and try to start again and the light stays on again. So i come back to the about 2 hours later, start it up and check engine light is not on and the car runs fine :confused: this is annoying problem and if anyone could help me fix this or know how to fix this it would be nice..... or share any imput or whatever, any help is welcomed :pray: :pray: :pray:
Hey man, post this on Hondata's forum, mods check that frequently, should be able to help you out.
 

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i recently had a problem with my kpro they didnt know about. once i brought it up only took them a day to come out with a new version of kmanager that fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey man, post this on Hondata's forum, mods check that frequently, should be able to help you out.
Posted.......

:iamwiths: thats seems like something that is so weird n abnormal that maybe its a rare problem that they know about
:dontknow: i hope its something quick and easy, not looking forward to having the car down trying to find a loose wire or some bull %$&@

i recently had a problem with my kpro they didnt know about. once i brought it up only took them a day to come out with a new version of kmanager that fixed it.
:giggity: i hope my fix is that easy....... might just upgrade to kpro3 and see if that does anything and also get a stronger battery just to test to see if that does anything :dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
did you relocate your intake manifold ground to the valve cover?
yes that was the first thing i checked thinking the leads weren't getting good connection, i took them off and cleaned them just to be on the safe side......... still problems
 

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Discussion Starter #13
did it work?
damn your at the right timing......... lol i just got in like 30 sec ago from trying it :rotfl:

Ok but here we go, plugged in the computer with kmanger open, turned to the 2nd click so i was online, no check engine light but the kmanger said there was an error code...... there was no code number but it said this "Daughter board communication error" i didnt clear the code and started the car and it started fine with no check engine light or limp mode. When it started the error code disappeared and everything appeared to be running fine, so i let the car idle for a few minutes to see if anything would pop up. I then cleared the ECU and loaded my map back onto the ecu. Started the car up and everything started fine no codes no lights no limp mode :dontknow: i hope that fixed it but idk......... but i found this on the hondata site


Post subject: Daughter board communication error

This is caused by low battery voltage. Generally the battery on its own should be able to crank the engine at 250 rpm with at least 10 volts while cranking. If not:

- Check the alternator is changing. A multimeter across the battery with the engine running should read 14 volts

- Relocated batteries often have an unacceptable voltage drop from the battery to the starter motor, even with car stereo type thick cabling.

- Consider using a higher capacity battery. The common Odyssey / Hawker Energy batteries do not crank very well, especially if they have been deeply discharged (even once). Consider using the stock battery. If you want to use lightweight battery, use the Braille battery, which has the same or bettery cranking than a stock battery.

- For engine swaps, check the alternator wiring.
- i got my crank voltage checked 3 times and its over 10 volts and will easily turn the car past 250rpms

- got my alternator checked 3 times and thats charging good, and i ran my voltmeter across with the car running and it read like 14.3-14.4 volts

- battery isnt relocated

- but i think buying a higher crank battery should fix the problem, alot are saying replace with stock but im not trying to spend money twice, if a higher crank battery will deff fix the problem thats what i wanna get so im not playing around with this any longer, any certain batteries you guys suggest?? or stay away from??
 
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