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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My new amp recommends 4G power wire (70x4 + 200x1), and my previous amp (50x4, 150x1) only needed 8. Also, while installing, I blew the old 60A fuse because I forgot to disconnect the battery, but the new amp was not connected in any way yet. I replaced it with an 80A.

Now that my new amp is in, it only flashes the red LED indicating some kind of circuitry protection. Question is, do I need to change my power wire? Is there anything else along the line I could have damaged when I popped the fuse (remember, neither amp was connected when that happened, the disconnected power wire brushed against the ground).
 

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12 Volt Installer
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Make sure you have a good ground, also check to make sure your power and ground wires at the amp terminals don't have any stray strands touching each other. Lastly you could have a faulty fuse....I've seen that before (the glass ones). To be sure, temporarily connect the power wire without the fuseholder in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Make sure you have a good ground, also check to make sure your power and ground wires at the amp terminals don't have any stray strands touching each other. Lastly you could have a faulty fuse....I've seen that before (the glass ones). To be sure, temporarily connect the power wire without the fuseholder in place.

Let's see. I'm grounded at two places 1) the hump behind the rear seats (8 gauge) and 2) the stock location between the taillights (2 guage). I tried using each of the grounds on their own and both at the same time, and I still get the protect light.

I tried testing the amp with no speaker wires or RCAs connected, still get the protect light.

I connected the power wire directly to the battery, still get the the protect light.

I opened up the amp and nothing is burned or fried, just some dust so I used compressed air to clean it. Still get the protect light.

To install this amp I was moving and tugging on a lot of wires to get them to reach, but no connections were broken, and still, it seems like it would work with just the ground, remote, and power connected :(


edit: busted out the multimeter, and I'm reading a constant 12V at both the amp to grnd and the amp-to chassis ground.
 

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The Audio Guru
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Double check the wires for any strays, disconnect all the speakers and rca's and see if it powers on properly, if it does not the amp is probably doa, if it comes on start adding things on to it first add the rca's turn on everything if it works turn it off and attach the right front speaker and keep repeating the process, sooner or latter either everything will be working or you will find the culprit.
 

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also, fix your grounds. having two separate ground locations is just asking for noise. when you upgraded your power wire, did you do the same for the ground? if not you need to. as far as what size fuse you have under the hood, it should match or be a little higher than the total amperes your amplifiers draw. to find this, just look at the amps themselves. normally there will be fusses directly on the amps. add all those up and use that size fuse under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Double check the wires for any strays, disconnect all the speakers and rca's and see if it powers on properly, if it does not the amp is probably doa, if it comes on start adding things on to it first add the rca's turn on everything if it works turn it off and attach the right front speaker and keep repeating the process, sooner or latter either everything will be working or you will find the culprit.
I definitely did all that :( No luck


also, fix your grounds. having two separate ground locations is just asking for noise. when you upgraded your power wire, did you do the same for the ground? if not you need to. as far as what size fuse you have under the hood, it should match or be a little higher than the total amperes your amplifiers draw. to find this, just look at the amps themselves. normally there will be fusses directly on the amps. add all those up and use that size fuse under the hood.

The two separate grounds actually cured the noise problem on my last amp. I redid them each, went back and resanded the paint, attached, etc. I also tried each ground one at a time and still no luck!
 

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The Audio Guru
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I would say the Amp is toast then
 

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The Audio Guru
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Most likely. I'm gonna take it to a local stereo shop and see if they can test it for me, then I'll call the manuf. and see how much they charge for repair. I did open the amp up and there was nothing burnt or fried.
Doesn't always mean anything, a mosfet could be cracked, cold solder joint, bad power supply, bad capacitor, lots of things that could be messed up and you not even know it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Doesn't always mean anything, a mosfet could be cracked, cold solder joint, bad power supply, bad capacitor, lots of things that could be messed up and you not even know it.
Thanks for the help guys!

Repair shop wants $120 to fix it. Not bad considering I got the amp for $100. So $220 total for a repaired zx700.5 with warranty. But I'm too lazy lol anyone wanna buy it off me? haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just to double check, would a power wire that is smaller than the manual says is required (8G instead of 4G) put an amp into protect mode? I'm thinking of buying the same amp that's why, and I don't want the same issue lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
no, protect mode typically means a shorted speaker connection, to low of a load, or the amp is bad. you would get a thermal light (assuming the amp has one) if your ground wire was to small or had a poor connection
As a last resort I hooked the amp directly up to the car battery, nothing but red lol
 
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