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2002 RSX Type-S (99%Stock)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
* I did this on a 2002 rsx-s

To anyone on the fence about getting rid of power steering, I've got a way that is totally reversible if you decide it's not for you, and will only cost you the price of a belt. Just bear in mind you will have to take apart the power steering pump, and potentially have to replace seals when putting it back together. If you're comfortable with that then it's no problem.

Instead of spending money on a delete kit, or EP3 idler + hardware, and finding out after that I hate it, I gutted the pump.

PARTS USED: 7PK1371 serpentine belt

  • Remove power steering pump
  • Unbolt the 4 12mm bolts on the non drive side of it
  • Carefully remove the internals, and take pictures for future reference. You should have all the parts in the picture below (there is a small white spacer that's hard to see without zoom, sorry)

  • Put the pump back together minus the parts in the picture, making sure the case seal is ok (you will need fluid in the pump to lubricate the roller bearing on the non-drive side of the pump)
  • Before putting the pump back on the engine:
  1. Unplug the return hose on the reservoir (from the rack-to-reservoir) and aim it somewhere you can catch fluid squirting out
  2. Aim the output hose (the one that goes over the top of the engine that you unbolted from the pump) also in a way that you can catch the fluid
  3. Jack the front of the car so the wheels are off the ground
  4. Turn your wheel lock to lock a few times until there's no more fluid squirting out. You should feel an immediate difference in how easy it is to turn.
  5. Empty the power steering reservoir
  • Now reinstall the power steering pump on the engine
  • IMPORTANT: Fill the inlet port (return port, closest to front of car) on the pump with power steering fluid until it won't take any more. It's kind of slow going so be patient. This ensures that the roller bearing I mentioned is sitting in oil, as I don't think it would last long running dry
  • Reinstall the hoses where they all go, including bolting them back up to the pump

I think the way I did it, with the hoses being drained a little higher than the rack, there is still about half the fluid left in the rack, so this will help keep things lubricated inside. The inlet of the rack is open to the empty pump, and the outlet of the rack is open to the reservoir, so there's no chance of hydrolock. The fluid will just move up and down both hoses as you turn the wheel.

I also removed my AC compressor and system parts, and used a 7PK1371 belt: that's 7-rib, 1371mm long. I'm sure anything from 1360-1370mm will work (that's about 53.5 to 53.8 inches)

If you decide it's not for you, then put back all the internals, do a fluid fill, and you're good to go... hopefully right? If you like it, then you can decide on what you want to start doing/removing as far as lines, looping, greasing, welding, etc.

Oh and I didn't bother with the disclaimers, You're on your own obviously! But it's working for me so far.
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