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As the title says, i haven't made mind up about which would be easiest to do. my buddies recommend to just pull the engine and replace it that way, but with research it makes it seem like pulling the engine from the top is a hassle and I only have a cherry picker and i cant really just drop it from the bottom dont have a lift. I was wanting to just pull the head off and drop the oil pan and go about that way, but i would have to hone the block. i just recently rebuilt this motor about 5k. ( i was a little rough on her time to lay back a bit) if i was to Hone the block while its still on the car wouldnt that make it very messy and shaving be going everywhere?

what i am saying is can anyone link me to some guides about the best option. more or less i just need some advice that would make this much easier and not as time consuming.
 

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sorry but the reality is, you need to pull the motor.

pulling the motor is NOT difficult from the top. ive done 8th gens, and my rsx from the top. just pull the engine and transmission as a whole and its not a big deal whatsoever.

on a side note, to do the pistons with the engine in the car is practically impossible. you would need to re-time the engine with the block in the car which is damn near impossible. then reaching and removing all oil pan bolts, transmission, and main girdle bolts are again nearly impossible.

to get the main girdle off (must be removed to do pistons) then you will need to remove the head, transmission, timing components, oil pan, and main girdle. basically, to do all this with the engine in the car is impossible.

to be 100% technical, the main girdle does not need to come off. so if you were to go about this job the hard way, you could remove the head, oil pan, oil pump, windage tray, timing components, then push the pistons out from the bottom and re-install them the same way. however i HIGHLY recommend against this. you can take my advice for what its worth, and if you decide to attempt to tackle this job with the engine in the car, may god be with you.
 

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sorry but the reality is, you need to pull the motor.

pulling the motor is NOT difficult from the top. ive done 8th gens, and my rsx from the top. just pull the engine and transmission as a whole and its not a big deal whatsoever.

on a side note, to do the pistons with the engine in the car is practically impossible. you would need to re-time the engine with the block in the car which is damn near impossible. then reaching and removing all oil pan bolts, transmission, and main girdle bolts are again nearly impossible.

to get the main girdle off (must be removed to do pistons) then you will need to remove the head, transmission, timing components, oil pan, and main girdle. basically, to do all this with the engine in the car is impossible.

to be 100% technical, the main girdle does not need to come off. so if you were to go about this job the hard way, you could remove the head, oil pan, oil pump, windage tray, timing components, then push the pistons out from the bottom and re-install them the same way. however i HIGHLY recommend against this. you can take my advice for what its worth, and if you decide to attempt to tackle this job with the engine in the car, may god be with you.
Ill take the advice :fistbump: just looking for a friendly person to help point me in the right direction. ive already started pulling things off her. i found Spaz old video when he pulled his motor from his rsx so thats what im going off. thank you.
 

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good luck. PM me with any questions or help that you need. the rsx is probably the easiest motor ive ever have to pull out.
 

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good luck. PM me with any questions or help that you need. the rsx is probably the easiest motor ive ever have to pull out.

lol these things are a complete ass backward bitch to work on compared to everything else honda has made since the early 90s. everything you need to get to has something else in the way that needs to be removed. you can get it out from the top with the cherry picker however


as for the op, you should pull the motor. get that crank out of there you dont want it anywhere near the honing oil full of metal shavings. clean the block with soapy water like crazy then blow it out with air and wipe down with shop towels. get oil or wd40 on the cyls asap
 

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lol these things are a complete ass backward bitch to work on compared to everything else honda has made since the early 90s. everything you need to get to has something else in the way that needs to be removed. you can get it out from the top with the cherry picker however


as for the op, you should pull the motor. get that crank out of there you dont want it anywhere near the honing oil full of metal shavings. clean the block with soapy water like crazy then blow it out with air and wipe down with shop towels. get oil or wd40 on the cyls asap

they are definitely not the same as the earlier model hondas. but theres a reason the rsx is better than any other honda model as well. obviously our suspension system is far better at reducing wheel hop, we have the K which obviously is the king! to have the best all around car comes at a sacrifice. these cars are still easier to work on than a subi! in most cases at least.

to the OP: as the last guy said, WD-40 the cylinders to prevent rust from hitting them. however i recommend assembling your piston assembly dry!! upon assembly i will blast the cylinder walls with brake cleaner, the pistons, and the rings. the idea here is to have zero lube on the pistons/rings/cylinders to prevent any type of glazing from happening upon first start up. i've been doing this for years and my rings last forever! wether it be in my cars, trucks, or my dirtbike which revs out at 14,000!. you can google it (dry rebuild). however do not forget to lube the wrist pin! that is the only piece of the piston assembly that should be lubed. many people will soak the pistons in oil and then throw them in, but i am heavily against that. my tried and true method has done wonders.

just did a compression test on my k20. has 220 total miles since the forged build.
cylinder 1: 180psi
cylinder 2: 177psi
cylinder 3: 177 psi
cylinder 4: 180psi.

that may be proof enough of the dry rebuild and its abilities to heavily seat and seal the rings.
 

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they are definitely not the same as the earlier model hondas. but theres a reason the rsx is better than any other honda model as well. obviously our suspension system is far better at reducing wheel hop, we have the K which obviously is the king! to have the best all around car comes at a sacrifice. these cars are still easier to work on than a subi! in most cases at least.

to the OP: as the last guy said, WD-40 the cylinders to prevent rust from hitting them. however i recommend assembling your piston assembly dry!! upon assembly i will blast the cylinder walls with brake cleaner, the pistons, and the rings. the idea here is to have zero lube on the pistons/rings/cylinders to prevent any type of glazing from happening upon first start up. i've been doing this for years and my rings last forever! wether it be in my cars, trucks, or my dirtbike which revs out at 14,000!. you can google it (dry rebuild). however do not forget to lube the wrist pin! that is the only piece of the piston assembly that should be lubed. many people will soak the pistons in oil and then throw them in, but i am heavily against that. my tried and true method has done wonders.

just did a compression test on my k20. has 220 total miles since the forged build.
cylinder 1: 180psi
cylinder 2: 177psi
cylinder 3: 177 psi
cylinder 4: 180psi.

that may be proof enough of the dry rebuild and its abilities to heavily seat and seal the rings.
First time on hearing of Dry build, ill do some looking into it, i just now took off my wheels, rotors, etc. now draining all fluids and such. my uncle who builds motors just told me to lube everything i do in oil even screws, but then again he rebuilds old vehicles not newer and performance wise engines. i still have much reading to do and i really am thankful for ClubRSX right now :vtec::vtec:
 

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guys who have experience from the past years will swear to soak everything in oil. because it worked. for them, they didnt have failures. however, it doesnt mean their rings sealed as much as they can! i am a firm believer in dry rebuilds because like ive said, my rings have lasted FAR longer than others i've seen, and my compression is spot on! but do what you think is neccessary, your motor wont explode if you oil the rings/pistons lol. any questions, let me know!
 
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