Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello All!

I tried searching for this issue, if I missed it, I apologize.

Looking for the experts in this forum and topic, please!
Advise like if it was your own vehicle, what would you do.


First my 03 RSX-S Has many mods. Here is what the previous owner shared with me in regards to the engine and turbo:

It is a 2003 model with only 32,500 original miles (today's mileage is around 39,000). NO leaks, NO burning oil, no OBVIOUS boost leaks OTHER than the blow off valve when shifting gears, No abnormal exhaust emissions either. The paint and interior are in like new condition, NO abormal engine noises. Oil level is full on the dipstick, all other fluids appear in good share and full, too.
The vehicle was WELL kept and maintained. It sat in the garage (The previous owner and with me. He even included a very nice car cover for the garage (he noted)). This tell about the car's condition and care!

Color: Arctic Blue Pearl Engine: 2.0L inline four (416whp-323tq) -Wiseco 87.5 9:1 Compression pistons -Eagle Rods -Darton intake manifold gasket -iSTBT performance intake/exhaust valves (titanium springs) -Rbc intake manifold -Revhard T3/T4 stage 3 turbo 60 trim/63, AR Thermal coated exhaust housing) -Blacktrax custom downpipe (thermal coated) -Tial 38 mm waste gate -Greddy front mount intercooler -Ingalls engine torque dampener -Blitz boost controller -Greddy turbo timer -Hondata 3 bar map sensor- RC 650 cc injectors -Golden eagle fuel rail -Walbro fuel pump -Defi exhaust gas/boost pressure gauge -Autometer oil pressure gauge.

Lately I have noticed that it doesn't pull or seem as peppy as it once was.
I am NO WAY an expert, just a guy who loves the RSX and performance driving.
It doesn't get raced or beaten on. Just sprinted street and back roads diriving. I work from home so no commuting, but it gets driven almost daily using 93 Shell pump gas.

I had the vehicle tuned at a reputable place called (AGN Tuning in Kileen Texas). The owner was very knowledgeable and was very helpful in explaining all the new to me, tech and turbo I have recently purchased (Bought it back in Sep 2018). I had it tuned in September/October 2018 and he used a Dyno and showed me that it started at 275HP and when we finished it maxed at 360whp. I forgot the torque spec. Per my notes from the day of tuning at AGN Tuning, the owner said the boost was at 11psi when floored in third and almost red lining the engine. It was super powerful and fun to drive!! The owner did a fantastic job.

Fast forward to today, I noticed that the Boost gauge when under the above floored and high revving conditions only shows 3-4psi now. Power doesn't feel like it did.
I am leaning towards a boost leak.

If that is the case, how do I troubleshoot and fix this issue? What should I look for, what For the record, I am familiar with engines and performance vehicles. Turbo systems are new to me however, I understand the basics. I looked under the hood, NOTHING is out of the ordinary or disconnected.

I do plan on bringing it back to the shop for them to diagnose, however, they are about 1.5 hour drive from me and I prefer everyone's advice and this forum!!:vtec:

Please let me know if you have any questions or need any other information about my car!
 

·
Leftie Lucy
Joined
·
29 Posts
You're welcome.

Start with a visual by assuring the the rubber couplers haven't loosened-up and slid out of position.
Make sure that the rubber couplers are firmly clamped with an equal portion of the rubber couplers protruding beyond the edge of the clamp by at least 1/4-3/8".

(Quite frankly, Band clamps vs. hose clamps should be used on the pressure (boosted) side of the system).

Using a nutdriver (by looking at the pix you'll probably need a 5/16"), and make sure that the rubber boots and couplers are firmly seated and evenly clamped. Don't over-tighten hose clamps! They will twist or strip the screw drive on the clamp.

Check any and all vacuum hoses and consider clamping those also vs. using tie wraps.

Keep in mind that lots of pressure can evacuate through very small leaks.

The process above should cost you No $$$, and also begin to familiarize you with how the turbo system works. Don't be surprised if you diagnose and repair the problem on your own

Good luck.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top