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Discussion Starter #1
Building a frank motor using K24A4 block and K20Z1 head to install in my '05 RSX Type S. The car is my daily driver, and I am concerned about reliability. Also, I don't tend to rev the car beyond 5k during normal driving. However, I have been known to hit the rev limiter on occasion especially after a couple of drinks. The questions are:

1. Should I replace the OEM pistons and rods with some aftermarket ones? If so, what compression should I be targeting? (Don't plan on ever installing turbo/super)

2. No tune for a while since the KPro is cost prohibitive right now. Should I keep below certain RPMs until I can get it tuned correctly?

Thank you for your time and information.

Devin
 
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Building a frank motor using K24A4 block and K20Z1 head to install in my '05 RSX Type S. The car is my daily driver, and I am concerned about reliability. Also, I don't tend to rev the car beyond 5k during normal driving. However, I have been known to hit the rev limiter on occasion especially after a couple of drinks. The questions are:

1. Should I replace the OEM pistons and rods with some aftermarket ones? If so, what compression should I be targeting? (Don't plan on ever installing turbo/super)

2. No tune for a while since the KPro is cost prohibitive right now. Should I keep below certain RPMs until I can get it tuned correctly?

Thank you for your time and information.

Devin
1.) No. OEM is perfectly fine.

2.) How will you run this motor on an RSX ECU? You need to have K-Pro ahead of time in order to successfully perform the swap.
 
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So, Erik, this quote is incorrect:

"Surprisingly, the stock RSX Type-S ECU will make the new K24 run well enough for grocery runs, but hard driving would be unwise."

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=592111&page=2
There are no "correct" answers in this hobby.

If someone wants to run a K24 off the stock ECU, then more power to them. I will be the last guy to stand in their way. I would not personally do it and do not recommend it but if someone wanted me to build and install a K24 in their RSX, then just run the stock ECU, I would be more than happy to under the condition that once it leaves my garage, I waive all liability for how it runs.

If it throws a code, you are stuck with Autozone or the dealership.

If it runs like crap because of your RBC and race header, then you are basically stuck with it because there is nothing you can do to fix the issue.

I only speak from personal experience and my experience has been that those try to install and run modified engines without any ECU management more often than not, will regret that choice.

Again, it is your car and you can do whatever you like with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, take a deep breath. I was just trying to show you where I might how come up with such a crazy idea. Knowing very little about this stuff and not having the largest wallet, I was covering all the bases. Now, since you are very informative and highly experienced, how about using a pre-configured K-Pro map? without the tune. Is that enough in the short term to avoid damage to the motor?
 
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Okay, take a deep breath. I was just trying to show you where I might how come up with such a crazy idea. Knowing very little about this stuff and not having the largest wallet, I was covering all the bases. Now, since you are very informative and highly experienced, how about using a pre-configured K-Pro map? without the tune. Is that enough in the short term to avoid damage to the motor?
The issue is that the stock ECU is non-rewritable. In other words, only a K-Pro'ed ECU will allow you to upload a calibration. The stock ECU can only work with the fixed map that Honda provides. So, you are basically rolling the dice and praying that your motor will run on the RSX-S map.

This is just my opinion, which you can accept or reject as you like: Get K-Pro first. You will never regret that decision.
 

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hell my uploaded k24 map still ran crappy with the RBC and DCRH till I got it fully tuned. It ran but you could smell the fuel mixture was off and the gas mileage sucked
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So, the K24/K20 swap is potentially dangerous, and downright ignorant, without using a reprogrammable ECU and a correct tune.

Here are some more questions regarding a frank build:

1. Should the head be decked, or anything else done to it, since it is coming from a car with 30k+ miles?

2. Besides the list of parts spelled out by K20A for the swap, are there any other parts that you guys would absolutely buy for the rebuilding?

3. Erik, what is good shop for a tune in Austin? (Yes, I live in the same city as Mr. Loza, and I hope never to have to race him.)
 
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So, the K24/K20 swap is potentially dangerous, and downright ignorant, without using a reprogrammable ECU and a correct tune.

Here are some more questions regarding a frank build:

1. Should the head be decked, or anything else done to it, since it is coming from a car with 30k+ miles?

2. Besides the list of parts spelled out by K20A for the swap, are there any other parts that you guys would absolutely buy for the rebuilding?

3. Erik, what is good shop for a tune in Austin? (Yes, I live in the same city as Mr. Loza, and I hope never to have to race him.)
1.) Brooks Elliott at Austin Cylinder Heads is who does all my work. You could take the head by and have him straight-edge it for you. he is a very honest guy and would tell you if there are any issues. Generally speaking, unless there was an prior overheating incident, there is not much to worry about.

2.) The header is the most expensive part. You can either run one of the off-the-shelf ones without a front sway bar or have a custom one built.

3.) You have nothing to worry about. My car is in pieces more than it runs and I only drive it to Starbucks up the street, anyway.

For tuning, I do not personally trust anyone here in town. T1 Race Development up in the DFW area is who I go to and Jason Herrera (Stoopid) in Houston would be another choice. If your setup is mostly stock, your best bet might be to have an online tuner like Magnesium do it for you. That would be be very affordable and probably work out fine for you.

You should drop into the Austin Chat. We get together every so often for dinner and beer and there is a photo shoot coming up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just read something about the K24A4 having fitment issues with a K20 head. Do I need to change the pistons/rods to obtain enough valve clearance?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So, I have obtained a K24A4 block with its original rotating assembly. Now, it is time to choose aftermarket pistons and rods. I will definitely go with the blueprint package of wiseco pistons and blueprint rods. However, the question is: What compression should I go with? I am thinking about the 10:1 range to allow me to use forced induction in the future while still obtaining decent gains with the K24 bottom end. With that in mind, another question is: Should I go with the all motor or turbo package, i.e. I-beam versus H-beam?
 

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So, I have obtained a K24A4 block with its original rotating assembly. Now, it is time to choose aftermarket pistons and rods. I will definitely go with the blueprint package of wiseco pistons and blueprint rods. However, the question is: What compression should I go with? I am thinking about the 10:1 range to allow me to use forced induction in the future while still obtaining decent gains with the K24 bottom end. With that in mind, another question is: Should I go with the all motor or turbo package, i.e. I-beam versus H-beam?
just use tsx pistons and rods on the a4 block
 
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