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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok im rebuilding my bottom end, I sent my crank to a machine shop and got it micropolished and I got new eagle rods. my question is can I use the acl race bearings or do i need to get oem bearings, acura quoted me 250+ for bearings and i would much rather spend the 120 for acl. I have some plastiguage from the machine shop the guy who polished my crank gave me to use if I wanted to. What do I do next?
 

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I just got done rebuilding my block. You can order all the bearings from acuraoemparts.com for right at $200. You will need to know what the color code is for all of the main and rod bearings which you get off the crank and block for crank bearings and rod and crank for rod bearings.

If you use the acl bearings you have to have your crank machined to fit the acl bearing size. They dont come in all the different sizes and colors like the oem bearings.:thumbsup:
 

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you could use plastigauge to find out exactly what color you need as well. i went the acl route and have no issues. up to you tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You will need to know what the color code is for all of the main and rod bearings which you get off the crank and block for crank bearings and rod and crank for rod bearings.
um care to elaborate and make this a little easier to understand what goes with what and how to go about doing this.

and for plastiguage how do i know which color code to use without having new bearing that i know what color code they are? or can i use my old bearings? how do I know what code my oem bearings are they are so i can adjust up or down from there?
 

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um care to elaborate and make this a little easier to understand what goes with what and how to go about doing this.

and for plastiguage how do i know which color code to use without having new bearing that i know what color code they are? or can i use my old bearings? how do I know what code my oem bearings are they are so i can adjust up or down from there?[/QUOTE]


Main Bearing Clearance Inspection


1. To check main bearing-to-journal oil clearance, remove the lower block and bearing half.
2. Clean each main journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
3. Place one strip of plastigage across each main journal.
4. Reinstall the bearing half and lower block, then torque the bolts to 29 Nm (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft. lbs.) + 56° . NOTE: Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.


5. Remove the lower block and bearing half again, and measure the widest part of the plastigage.
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and remove the upper half of the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the same color code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below that one), and check again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over.


1. Numbers or letters or bars have been stamped on the end of the block as a code for the size of each of the five main journal bores. Write down the crank bore codes. If you can't read the codes because of accumulated dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent. Main Journal Code Location

2. The main journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft.


3. Use the crank bore codes and crank journal codes to select the appropriate replacement bearings from the table. NOTE:
-Color code is on the edge of the bearing.
-When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom.
 

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Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement

Rod Bearing Clearance Inspection


1. Remove the oil pump.
2. Remove the baffle plate.
3. Remove the connecting rod cap and bearing half.
4. Clean the crankshaft rod journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
5. Place plastigage across the rod journal.
6. Reinstall the bearing half and cap, and torque the bolts. Tightening Torque K20A3 Engine: 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 ft. lbs.) + 90° K20A2, K20Z1 Engines: 29 Nm (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft. lbs.) + 90° NOTE: Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.

7. Remove the rod cap and bearing half, and measure the widest part of the plastigage.
8. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the bearing, install a new, complete bearing with the same color code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
9. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below that one), and check clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearing, replace the crankshaft and start over.

Rod Bearing Selection

1. Inspect each connecting rod for cracks and heat damage. Connecting Rod Big End Bore Code Locations


2. Each rod has a tolerance range from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 inch) , in 0.006 mm (0.0002 inch) increments, depending on the size of its big end bore. It's then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3 or 4/I, II, III, or IIII) indicating the range. You may find any combination of numbers and bars in any engine, (Half the number or bar is stamped on the bearing cap, the other half on the rod). If you can't read the code because of an accumulation of oil and varnish, do not scrub it with a wire brush or scraper. Clean it only with solvent or detergent. Connecting Rod Journal Code Location


3. The connecting rod journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft.

4. Use the big end bore codes and rod journal codes to select appropriate replacement bearings from the table. NOTE:
-Color code is on the edge of the bearing.
-When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom.
 

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If you are going with oem bearings that is how you figure out what bearing color to use. Also You can use 2 different color bearings for the same journal if neccesary. I had alot of green/brown journals.

When you get the new bearings should be when you plastiguage to make sure the clearances are correct.

Gl. Hope that helps:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thank you very much if only we could give rep lol +1000 for you
 

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Exactly where did you find it? Cause I'm doing the exact same thing right now but without knowing where the color codes locations are I can't order them. And even with that chart, I still can't find it... my crankshaft is still in the motor though.
 

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I found mine byt there are 4 letters and 5 numbers and only 4 letters on the side of the crank shaft
ok so my numbers on the block are stamped so i can read them from the outside looking at the block.
the numbers on the crank are 54434 in order from left to right and 42433 from left to right on the block. would i match up lik this 5/3, 4/3, 4/4, 3/2, 4/4 or 5/4, 4/2, 3/3, 4/3?
 
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