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J. Clark Fabrications
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I am wanting to swap timing chain tensioners, not pleased with the timing slap I hear. I could have sworn I saw a DIY on changing them out without removing the chain or cover. For the life of me I cannot find it. I believe the trick was holding the tension using a bungee strap between the cams. :shakehead I would like to verify before I try anything. Also anyone have any testimonals to an aftermarket tensioner? skunk2, toda, hybrid etc.. I would like to get a quality product. Any help is appreciated, Thanks James.
 

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I believe the bungee cord method you saw is for doing cam work.
The tensioner is just remove right front wheel.
Remove the small timing cover on the chain cover.
Then rotate the engine counter clockwise ever so slightly and stick a small pin in the tensioner. Then keep something wedged on the timing guide so you don't lose the tension.
Then remove the tensioner.
Pop the new one in then remove the pin make sure it's nice and tight.
Honda bond the cover put the wheel back on and your off.

Just make sure you keep tension on the chain while the tensioner is removed or you'll end up in trouble. Having a friend wedge a screw driver in there while you switch tensioner a might save you a big headache.
 

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Also if your cars well over 100k miles I'd just get another oem tensioner it's a waste to put a high quality one on a stock motor that's up there in miles. Just thought I'd put it out there before you spend an extra 200 bucks for no reason.
 

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I bought the hybrid one for my k24 bc my stock k20 one failed. prompting my swap but I haven't installed the motor yet so I cant speak for its performance yet. but its a problem that other people have encountered as a failure so I didn't want to take the risk
 
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Personally, I would just use a stock chain tensioner. They have worked fone for most of us.
 

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I used the R40 TCT for my k24. It is off of the 09 TSX. I swapped it out due to a chatter noise on cold start up. Unfortunately for me, the issue is still there but it is not due to the TCT. I have rode on it for close to 3,000 miles on it now (not really a lot of miles, but still).

FYI: It is nearly impossible to find a Skunk2 one for sale anymore. Furthermore, I think that paying 300 bucks for a Hybrid Racing one is a bit overkill depending on your plans for the engine. The R40 tensioner has deeper grooves in the piston than your stock one and IMO it is more than enough peace of mind for DD or even spirited driving. Hope this helps.
 

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I've done this twice and think it might be time to do it again (at 190K miles, I'm getting a little grind on cold starts, oil is full and fresh).

The first time I did it just as stated in the Helms, and it was simple as could be.

The second time, I somehow f-ed up the timing and it was a BITCH to get back in time.
How do you keep tension on the chain without the tensioner, as kenny874 recommends? There is only the tiny hole where the tensioner keeps tension on the chain, IIRC. How can you remove the tensioner and keep tension on the chain simultaneously?
 

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I'm working on replacing my timing tensioner - The pages in the manual do not mention removing the valve cover or keeping tension on the guides when you are only replacing the tensioner. They say just to open the access door, remove and replace the tensioner.

Is there any risk with not maintaining tension on the guides through this process? I'm guessing that is why some people have recommended removing the valve cover, to manually hold the guides.

My goal is to replace only the tensioner for now.
 

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Pancakes
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I'm working on replacing my timing tensioner - The pages in the manual do not mention removing the valve cover or keeping tension on the guides when you are only replacing the tensioner. They say just to open the access door, remove and replace the tensioner.

Is there any risk with not maintaining tension on the guides through this process? I'm guessing that is why some people have recommended removing the valve cover, to manually hold the guides.

My goal is to replace only the tensioner for now.
Keep tension on the guides or you will jump time (I know from experience :( )
 

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Keep tension on the guides or you will jump time (I know from experience :( )
Thanks for the advice! So is my method correct?

Pull the valve cover and I should have access to hold the chain guide with my hand tight while someone else pulls the old tensioner and installs the new one, release the ratchet and then I can let go of the chain guides?


Lastly - What about in the manual - It states to 'Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to compress the auto-tensioner', When I'm doing this step to relieve pressure on the tensioner, can I just have someone hold the ratchet on the crankshaft at the point it keeps the tensioner compressed? and perform the transfer release the pin, then have my partner turn the crankshaft again so the ratchet clicks in?

Thanks again!
 

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PSN: TomasTheTank
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Hey folks! .
Holding the pressure CCW against the chain could work, I would have your buddy hold the chain guide too before you remove the tensioner. Personally if your gonna pull the valve cover, get a cam holder pin set. Bungees work ok but the pins are the best. Set the motor to TDC, look at the end of the cams , there is a hole that lines up between the cam pulse plate and the 5th cam holder, insert pins. Replace tensioner all by yourself like a boss. And hey since valve cover is off check the gasket and spark tube seals, and why not check the valve adjustments too.
 

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I wanted to update this thread as a resource like is basically NEVER done in forums these days..

But I was getting the familiar code P0340 Camshaft Sensor error. It was off and on for a year. When finally last summer it went on for good, and it was clear the car was not running correctly.

We replaced the timing chain tensioner only through the access door, and checked timing, the intake side was correct, exhaust was off by 1 or 2 teeth. Set correct timing.

The CEL has not come in since after being cleared and the car runs like it did originally. Obviously my chain is stretched pretty decently but the new tensioner seems to make up for the slack. I'm sure I'm running on limited time before this chain is stretched beyond usable tolerance, but this is a viable solution for those looking for a couple more years out of their chain!
 

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Hey folks! .
Set the motor to TDC, look at the end of the cams , there is a hole that lines up between the cam pulse plate and the 5th cam holder, insert pins. Replace tensioner all by yourself like a boss.
Can you compress the tensioner to get it out with cam pins inserted?
 

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PSN: TomasTheTank
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Yea but be careful and no yanky motions lol
 
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