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I put a volt gauge in my car to monitor it...

When I start the car cold it runs fine at 14 V. After its warmed up a little bit (and your at a stop or the clutch is in) the volts will bounce from 12 - 14.

If it is running at 14 and I turn the lights on, it falls to about 12.5 Volts.

Now its at the point were when I drive, if I put the clutch in... the car dies.


I replaced the alternator today. I also replaced the negative battery cables with new factory cables because they were rusted and corroded out the ass. I bought the battery last year, I don't think thats the problem.

I drove it up the street, and it's doing the same thing. Now the battery light is on.


??? :dontknow: ??? anybody have some ideas of what else I can try?



-Thanks
 

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Gotta be the battery dude...if your alternator was pooched it could have damaged the battery as well, even if it wasnt the inital problem. Most auto shops will test your battery for free and then you will know for sure
 

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Hi there
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Get your battery and alternator tested. Your alternator sounds like its working fine and you might have a problem somewhere else. Its when you get down to 9-10v that you should be worrying about alt output
 

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i-Vtec dog
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Is your volt gauge connected directly to the battery? If not, you might not get an accurate reading.

e.g. the voltage reading on my radar detector can differ by 0.5 to 1 volts when it's compared to the reading on the capacitor.
 

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Zack Killa
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If ur batt light is on that means the alt is not charging the batt, sounds like ur old alt was toast and possibly your new alt is toast too, u need to get a multimeter and find out what ur alt output is
 

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My problem may be similar as well, check this out.

I think I may be having a problem with my alternator. I have a radar detector that displays the car’s voltage, this is what I’m getting my voltage numbers from (I have verified with a multimeter as well.) The car is an 2006 Type-S with 9k miles.

Here is what it doing. After starting the car and idling I see 14.2-14.4v (with or without accessories on). Then after driving a bit I can see the voltage drop to 12.8-12.9. After the voltage goes low like that it stays low at idle and under light engine load, but if I rev to above 3.4-3.5k rmps I see the voltage rise to 14.2-14.4. When the car is off the battery reads 13-13.1v

I just took it to the dealership, and they say everything tested fine. Is it normal to see voltages around 12.8-12.9 while the car is started? I seem to think it is not ok.

Cliffs:
1. Idle voltage 14.2-14.4v.
2. After driving a bit it goes to 12.8-12.9.
3. Dealership says everything tests fine.

Thanks for any help!
 

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i-Vtec dog
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The reading on your radar detector is not accurate since it is not connected directly to the battery. It is subject to noises within the radar detector. The voltage display is there so that you don't have ot look at the "HIGHWAY" or "AUTOSCAN" title. The voltage is only for reference.

If you want an accurate reading, wire the voltmeter to your battery or directly from the fuse panel.
 

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The reading on your radar detector is not accurate since it is not connected directly to the battery. It is subject to noises within the radar detector. The voltage display is there so that you don't have ot look at the "HIGHWAY" or "AUTOSCAN" title. The voltage is only for reference.

If you want an accurate reading, wire the voltmeter to your battery or directly from the fuse panel.
Yeah, I’ve been told that the radar detector voltage is not 100% accurate. I have a Davis OBDII carchip, and it will monitor voltage, I’ll get that installed and see what it says, as I think is should be accurate as it’s reading the voltage the car’s computer is reading. I have not hooked a multimeter to the car while driving (kinnda hard to). I might rig up something off the fuse box if I have to.

I’m still waiting on word back from the dealer. But I can’t understand for the first 9k miles I’ve had the car the voltage was always at 14.4’ish and now it’s 12.8 when running. That just seems wrong to me.
 

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WheatThin: Do you have any additional crap in your car? Amp/Cap DVD Player etc? I had an amp go bad on me once - it made sound (not the best) - but even under no audio input the amperage draw would increase linearly. After 20 minutes (with NO audio input) the amplifier was drawing upwards to 4amps. That just ain't right. I blew up 2 alternators trying to find the issue.
 
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