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The Blue Bomber
Acura RSX
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1,147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As the title says, this is my DIY rendition for the Rotrex Supercharger. im sure mine will vary alittle being im a semi-confident gearhead, and not everyone car is the same, we do things differently... etc

The rotrex I will be covering is brought to us by Kraftwerks ... with a K.

1st off Oscar Jackson Jr and the folks at Kraftwerks are very helpful and have alot of knowledge, check our their website and you will be able to download the
basic instruction for installing the Rotrex into your K-series vehicle.

Instructions are here:
http://www.kraftwerksusa.com/products/krace/instructions/kraceinstructions309.pdf

I will mainly be covering little hangups and snags that you will most likely run into as well
as an intercooler install.
 

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The Blue Bomber
Acura RSX
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1,147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Now on with the show.

Step #1 -- Tools

I recommend you have these tools before you start

Lighting
Jack
Jackstands
Full set of Metric wrenches and Sockets
Pliers
Wire Cutters
Phillips and Flathead Screwdriver
Dremel
Sawsall
Welder
etc...

Step #2 -- Parts

Rotrex Kit for K-series
Drive Belt (will need to measure for new size)
FMIC and Piping
Coolant overflow

Suggested parts not covered in install:

Header
Kpro
injectors

Step #3 -- The Vehicle

 

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The Blue Bomber
Acura RSX
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1,147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Step #4 -- Disassembly

Unless you absolutely know what you are doing, I suggest a Helms manual. I have one and it
has helped me tremendously for anything you need to know when taking apart or putting together
your vehicle.


After removing your Bumper and Headlights (I do this to get everything out of my way), I suggest
you remove the radiator as well as the Intake Manifold for ease of install.





Step #5 -- Prefit and Final Rotrex installation


While fitting your Rotrex, make sure everything is aligned properly. I found that while installing
to make the Charger fit I had to cut out a notch in my subframe so the mount would fit.





The instructions from rotrex tell you that most K-series engines will use 3 clocking settings, 0/60/120 degrees, 120 would require more subframe cutting and 60 would cause potential damage to the radiator or require a halfsize so the 0 degrees was my choice. This however poses another issue:



I talked to Jackson Jr and he advised me that they only make 1 mount for their K-series kits and its for the larger supercharger, thus cutting this bracket is necessary if you are going with the 0 degrees clocking.


Step #6 -- Inlet Piping

While installing the piping I found alittle issue with the inlet piping to the charger. The inlet port and the Lower coolant hose intersect. My resolution to this was a flexible silicon hose, ugly as it may be it gets the job done. In hind-sight I probably could have went with a 90 degree coupler and then went with another 90 degree towards the transmission.




Step #7 -- Rotrex oil system

This for me was alittle tricky because I want to install a catchcan and the spot I was gonna use turns out to be the spot I need for my Rotrex Fluid reservoir.



After reinstall of the radiator I installed the Rotrex Oil Cooler onto the radiator using a transmission cooler mounting kit available at any autoparts store (around $10)

 

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The Blue Bomber
Acura RSX
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1,147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Step #8 -- FMIC and Charge piping

there are different ways to go about installing the charge piping but this was my method. I cut out
a part of the unibody next to the radiator and a piece of the bumper core support then used (2) 90 degree couplers and a wide bend 90 degree pipe.













Final Steps

If you route the FMIC piping like I did you will need to get a small universal coolant overflow tank since the OEM one will intersect with the rotrex outlet piping into the intercooler.



If you purchased a Header its always good to wrap them, and if you are skilled enough to weld it into your exhaust piping yourself you will save a buck there.



Make sure to measure out the drive belt to make sure you dont buy one too small or too big. I suggest using the drivebelt removal tool and pull it till you get about halfway thru the tolerance indicator. I ended up purchasing a 69.5 inch belt from Bando (they sell different sizes all 7 rib belts), so you dont have to worry about running a 6 rib gatorback belt. The belt sells on amazon.com for something like $20.00



Youre on your own for the BPV routing. Im still messing with that, 1-inch heater hose is not very flexible.

After you are done, reinstall the Headlights and bumper skin, make sure everything fits well and make adjustments where needed. Follow the rotrex startup proceedure for the oiling system. If you removed the radiator follow those coolant refil instructions.

Start up the vehicle, inspect for anyleaks, maybe take her around the block (be careful until you get it properly tuned)

GET IT TUNED!!!

ENJOY! :vtec:





This is my 1st attempt at a DIY of anysort, so if there is intructions missing that is why. feel free to add any 'constructive' criticism or any bit of info I might have missed.
 

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Banned
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1,123 Posts
no dump-vavle?

also, not sure that oil rad mount is going to be a great idea, looks like it's going to rub the main rad. Also, IC rad looks quite small/restrictive?

PS. not wild about putting a cut into the frame like that?

at least get a insert plate welded in...
 

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Premium Member
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15,843 Posts
i think i'll include this in the guides and solutions sticky since this is still fairly new to most people in the states.
 

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Registered
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15,360 Posts
no dump-vavle?

also, not sure that oil rad mount is going to be a great idea, looks like it's going to rub the main rad. Also, IC rad looks quite small/restrictive?

PS. not wild about putting a cut into the frame like that?

at least get a insert plate welded in...
ya the bold had me a little nervous when i saw it too...
 

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The Blue Bomber
Acura RSX
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1,147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
no dump-vavle?

also, not sure that oil rad mount is going to be a great idea, looks like it's going to rub the main rad. Also, IC rad looks quite small/restrictive?

PS. not wild about putting a cut into the frame like that?

at least get a insert plate welded in...
Dump valve? you mean bypass valve? yeah I got one, im not 100% finished with the install. where I had it was too cramped in so I rerouted a few things.

the OIL rad mount is fine, as I posted most autoparts stores sell transmission cooler mounting kits designed to mount to your radiator. there are cushions in between my radiator and the oil cooler to keep from damage.

I picked up the IC from CRSX, and for my HP goals it will be fine. http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/MIM-MMINT-UZ.html

and I wasnt wild about cutting either. but I talked to some local machine shops and also talked to Oscar Jackson Jr @ Kraftwerks and sent him pics, he said the amount of cutting I did and the place its at is marginal and should not cause any issues.
 

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Dump valve? you mean bypass valve? yeah I got one, im not 100% finished with the install. where I had it was too cramped in so I rerouted a few things.
maybe....

I am talking about a way of dumping the output of the charger when the throttle is not open/part open?
the OIL rad mount is fine, as I posted most autoparts stores sell transmission cooler mounting kits designed to mount to your radiator. there are cushions in between my radiator and the oil cooler to keep from damage.
cool.
and I wasnt wild about cutting either. but I talked to some local machine shops and also talked to Oscar Jackson Jr @ Kraftwerks and sent him pics, he said the amount of cutting I did and the place its at is marginal and should not cause any issues.
OK, but I would still get a insert U plate welded into that, not only to tie the loose ends together, but also to prevent the subframe filling up with water and rusting out.
 

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The Blue Bomber
Acura RSX
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1,147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
maybe....

I am talking about a way of dumping the output of the charger when the throttle is not open/part open?

cool.


OK, but I would still get a insert U plate welded into that, not only to tie the loose ends together, but also to prevent the subframe filling up with water and rusting out.
OK, we are talking about the same thing. yeah I got a Bypass valve, same as a BOV cept it dumps back into the inlet piping to the S/C

Its kinda inevitable that water is gonna get in there, if you look at the subframe/engine cage there are holes everywhere in it and thats an open piece. but to reduce rusting I put a few coats of black primer where I cut (pic doesnt show it)

but you do make a valid point, I was considering taking the rotrex out and getting the mounting bracket trimmed down by a machine shop so its a smooth clean cut, since Oscar Jr said the mounting kit is pretty much for the larger S/C just with mounting holes to accomidate the smaller one. personally I think they should make a mounting bracket propriatory to each size charger, less need for modification to subframes and mounts... etc
 

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Chris
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325 Posts
This is really great Doug, as we all or those that actually have a rotrex charger learn more about the rotrex supercharger and become more experience with it we should create an official rotrex supercharger thread. I'm too lazy to do all that typing and research though you should be the guy to do this though haha.
 

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Just a thought. I've seen a side by side all in one intercooler/radiator that may work with this application. (It was a slightly deeper than stock with the intercooler side was on passenger side and the radiator was on the driver's side.) If they are still being made, it may reduce the amount of piping required as freeing up some valuable space in the engine bay. The downside is the extra cost because if I recall correctly, it wasn't cheap. In any case, I can't wait to hear and see how it performs. Please take some videos, when you get it tuned.

Good luck! :thumbsup:
 

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The Blue Bomber
Acura RSX
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1,147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just a thought. I've seen a side by side all in one intercooler/radiator that may work with this application. (It was a slightly deeper than stock with the intercooler side was on passenger side and the radiator was on the driver's side.) If they are still being made, it may reduce the amount of piping required as freeing up some valuable space in the engine bay. The downside is the extra cost because if I recall correctly, it wasn't cheap. In any case, I can't wait to hear and see how it performs. Please take some videos, when you get it tuned.

Good luck! :thumbsup:
you got a brand name? or a part number I can look that up? sounds like something worth researching.
 

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The Blue Bomber
Acura RSX
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1,147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
install looks like it was a pain in the ass. def not a simple bolt on and go
Simple, no.. not really. pain in the ass.... kinda. but for me it goes with the territory of modding a vehicle to be what you want it to be. remember most vehicles arent made to accept the mods you install into them, even ones that claim "OEM fitment" still require some modification usually.

but yeah deffinately not a simple bolt on. Kraftwerks is working on a full bolt-on kit for the new civic and they have one for the s2000, but not one for the RSX....yet
 

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sights set on + pressure
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in for vids...nice work and great write up mine is moreso a lookie what I got...lol
Can't wait for your results and butt dyno charts...
 
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