Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner
101 - 107 of 107 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
2,014 Posts
high speed compression=great ff and rr. low speed compression, not so good. the feel they want to bottom at 10-15 mph over small bumps.
for a daily driver, it's pretty good.

i hope this is still on topic???
high speed compression=great ff and rr. low speed compression, not so good. the feel they want to bottom at 10-15 mph over small bumps.
for a daily driver, it's pretty good.

i hope this is still on topic???
It might as well be. I'm no shock builder, but I think that high speed/low speed piston disparity is due to the sub-optimal curve our coil-overs may have. Sounds more/too progressive which is typical of these cheaper dampers a few of us run and from my experience, you must make a compromise as it will not have a good/decent setting @ both. I choose to optimize it at low speed piston speeds if the track is faster (for high MPH control), hoping it doesn't get too upset at bumps (high speed). Buttonwillow, for me, for example, and the opposite for a slower course-- Streets of Willow (which many just call an overgrown Auto-X course). On the street, I prioritize the high speed valving range since the roads around here are rather rough. Above all, give the suspension travel to do the best it can.
 

· CHEAP TRACKDAYS WANTED
Joined
·
1,118 Posts
It might as well be. I'm no shock builder, but I think that high speed/low speed piston disparity is due to the sub-optimal curve our coil-overs may have. Sounds more/too progressive which is typical of these cheaper dampers a few of us run and from my experience, you must make a compromise as it will not have a good/decent setting @ both. I choose to optimize it at low speed piston speeds if the track is faster (for high MPH control), hoping it doesn't get too upset at bumps (high speed). Buttonwillow, for me, for example, and the opposite for a slower course-- Streets of Willow (which many just call an overgrown Auto-X course). On the street, I prioritize the high speed valving range since the roads around here are rather rough. Above all, give the suspension travel to do the best it can.
i think of shock / spring motion as a sine wave with frequencies and amplitudes.
compression, rebound, force, and time.

i hope i'm making sense here
 

· Registered
2004 Acura RSX Type S
Joined
·
3 Posts
Wow, 12+ years later, still helping peeps out! Thank you so much for posting this. I'm not sure how I didn't fund this sooner. I was trying to figure out if inverted tie rods is what I need to do which many said I need to some said no need to but nobody detailed why either way except for generically steering feel "tighter" "more responsive" "doesn't do anything" etc etc.

I don't race but mainly two reasons had me researching. My tie rod angles are pretty steep with Fortune Auto coilovers, 2.25" lowered roughly... I have roll center ball joints. Which oddly after I did the roll center ball joints and lowered my car at the same time so I'm not sure how it would've felt one at a time however my steering is not as responsive, it was definitely more responsive and felt like I could "flick" it around and I enjoyed it! With previous set up (Tanabe suspect with mild drop of around 1" , oem arms/ ball joints and oem tie rods) Higher speed turns and hitting bumps in thus turns I couldnt elaborate on either way.

So currently (fortune auto 500 c/o, swift 10/14k coils 2+" of drop from stock, ktuned lower arms and roll center ball joints)
I had to go with extended outer tie rods. I went with 1" longer to be exact. So it turned out they are too long. I'm maxed out on one side and I can't quite center my steering wheel in result. Alignment is fine tho. I stayed at 1 degree negative camber throuought , thats one spec that I kept the same both ways so I don't add too many variables lol.

Anyway i lived with it, feels fine, not as flicky but didnt have time lately so left it be but everytime I see my tie rod angles when I'm working on car and get reminded I am looking into it now. I have Hardrace inner/outer tie rod set that will give me additional adjustment i needed to center my steering wheel etc sitting on the side but ran into seeing Hardrace roll center outer tie rods that sparked up researching it again. Never heard of term roll center tie rods but of course noticed they're just inverted tie rods. They would absolutely flatten the tie rod angles. In fact they would make them almost straight if I did it.
One thing I never ever would've realized until you broke it down in this write up is how the angle is affected under load so im thinking perhaps I should not do inverted tie rods after all. I finally can feel content with putting this to rest, getting them in getting my steering wheel straight / aligned.

Thank you for that! Sorry for my long drawn out post. I'm just appreciative I can finally put this behind me and look into other changes for my steering response desires:p:cool:


Btw I'm trying to post a pic of the angle now. Wondering anyone can tell me if its totally fine for closure lol. I dont have a pitch gauge etc I tried to take the best pic I can with car on the ground and wheels facing straight.
 
101 - 107 of 107 Posts
Top