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2002 EBP RSX 5m w/Leather
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If you can, get the Acura A-spec suspension! For the ‘03 just be sure the part number has the A at the end: 08W60-S6M-200A, this is a kit complete with springs, shocks, mounts, etc. I picked one up a few years ago for about $600, and love it, but, it has since been discontinued. If you’re looking to get it from an Acura dealer (someone might have it in stock, you may need to call them), just tell them it’s for an ‘06 RSX Type S. Usually you can find it discounted online, but, shipping costs vary. (There’s a thread on here somewhere that talks about this suspension.)
 

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If you can, get the Acura A-spec suspension! For the ‘03 just be sure the part number has the A at the end: 08W60-S6M-200A, this is a kit complete with springs, shocks, mounts, etc. I picked one up a few years ago for about $600, and love it, but, it has since been discontinued. If you’re looking to get it from an Acura dealer (someone might have it in stock, you may need to call them), just tell them it’s for an ‘06 RSX Type S. Usually you can find it discounted online, but, shipping costs vary. (There’s a thread on here somewhere that talks about this suspension.)
That sounds TITS! 600$ for all that? Sounds to good to be true. I'll look it up...I also know there are sway bar differences between 03 and 05-06 so why and how would you order that if it might not fit? Let alone get it....Pipe dream.
 

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That sounds TITS! 600$ for all that? Sounds to good to be true. I'll look it up...I also know there are sway bar differences between 03 and 05-06 so why and how would you order that if it might not fit? Let alone get it....Pipe dream.
hate to burst your bubble bro, but they've been out of stock everywhere I looked over the past year. I tried buying a second set myself.
 

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2002 EBP RSX 5m w/Leather
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hate to burst your bubble bro, but they've been out of stock everywhere I looked over the past year. I tried buying a second set myself.
I'm not the one in the market here. But if that can be obtained at that price...SOLD! Keep lookin' I'll give ya 700 plus shipping. That would be a nice project for you? Otherwise dude has put up a lead that's worth checking out? How do you like yours anointed one? Other than that what might be your second choice for this young lad?
 

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I'm not the one in the market here. But if that can be obtained at that price...SOLD! Keep lookin' I'll give ya 700 plus shipping. That would be a nice project for you? Otherwise dude has put up a lead that's worth checking out? How do you like yours anointed one? Other than that what might be your second choice for this young lad?
In conjunction with the ITR rear sway and a decent alignment, I love it. Would probably love it more if I got stickier tires (running Toyo Proxes 4+) although there are times where I wish I got something a little more aggressive.
My second choice would probably be Tein Advance, unless Mugen SS is still being produced.
 

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In conjunction with the ITR rear sway and a decent alignment, I love it. Would probably love it more if I got stickier tires (running Toyo Proxes 4+) although there are times where I wish I got something a little more aggressive.
My second choice would probably be Tein Advance, unless Mugen SS is still being produced.
I'm runnin' Copper Zeon 3sra's I live in all weather conditions. There A rated all around and directional. Very predictable and you can hang the ass end out on a 35mph off ramp at 60 no problem. I have a type s so the need for the ITR probably not necessary with suspension tech bushings all around? The motor mounts do wonders as to wheel hop. I've heard good things about Tien, they are coil overs, NO? To much fucking around for me. I'm lowered 1.5 frt. 1.0 r It holds pretty good with KYB's and springs. I hope tedainer is paying attention here? I and others are trying to help "somebody" who went all out on skunked U valvetrain and cams and has had nothing but trouble, go figure? You might want to chime in? I'd probably get more out of my used TYPE S complete valvetrain than he will. SAD. Bottom line the only thing between you and the road are tires. What's your opinion on rear control arms? I already have adjustable r camber arms....
 

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I'm runnin' Copper Zeon 3sra's I live in all weather conditions. There A rated all around and directional. Very predictable and you can hang the ass end out on a 35mph off ramp at 60 no problem. I have a type s so the need for the ITR probably not necessary with suspension tech bushings all around? The motor mounts do wonders as to wheel hop. I've heard good things about Tien, they are coil overs, NO? To much fucking around for me. I'm lowered 1.5 frt. 1.0 r It holds pretty good with KYB's and springs. I hope tedainer is paying attention here? I and others are trying to help "somebody" who went all out on skunked U valvetrain and cams and has had nothing but trouble, go figure? You might want to chime in? I'd probably get more out of my used TYPE S complete valvetrain than he will. SAD. Bottom line the only thing between you and the road are tires. What's your opinion on rear control arms? I already have adjustable r camber arms....
I don't know man, I'm kind of torn on the subject. Theoretically, light weight control arms should improve handling because there's less mass attached to the suspension, allowing it to react more quickly. With the difference in weight only being a few lbs, it seems like it's just money wasted on JDM bling.

However, I'd get the arms if i were in the market for new bushings. Hardrace for example sells both control arms for about $135, and their bushings alone are $90. I don't like pressing bushings (even though i have a press sitting in the garage) so spending an extra $40 to just bolt on some arms is worth it to me.
 

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I don't know man, I'm kind of torn on the subject. Theoretically, light weight control arms should improve handling because there's less mass attached to the suspension, allowing it to react more quickly. With the difference in weight only being a few lbs, it seems like it's just money wasted on JDM bling.

However, I'd get the arms if i were in the market for new bushings. Hardrace for example sells both control arms for about $135, and their bushings alone are $90. I don't like pressing bushings (even though i have a press sitting in the garage) so spending an extra $40 to just bolt on some arms is worth it to me.
I would agree on less rotating mass and lighter a-arms and the like would help. Myself I keep my rides lowkey. It's just one more thing to draw attention without much gain, in a street car. It's sad that punks in Mitsubishi's are thinning out. lol Just love walking away from them! Yeah, pressing bushing kinda sux. Gotta find the right size socket/pipe and hope it doesn't separate. next issue is all the funky colors they come in! Pink, purple, orange? Seriously...Back to sway bars. I think t-s stock is 24 front 22 rear? any bigger any better. As long as my engine is out and I'm dedicated to this car other add-ons would be the time to fly. Thanx as alway's
 

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I would agree on less rotating mass and lighter a-arms and the like would help. Myself I keep my rides lowkey. It's just one more thing to draw attention without much gain, in a street car. It's sad that punks in Mitsubishi's are thinning out. lol Just love walking away from them! Yeah, pressing bushing kinda sux. Gotta find the right size socket/pipe and hope it doesn't separate. next issue is all the funky colors they come in! Pink, purple, orange? Seriously...Back to sway bars. I think t-s stock is 24 front 22 rear? any bigger any better. As long as my engine is out and I'm dedicated to this car other add-ons would be the time to fly. Thanx as alway's
First gen's actually have a 23 mm in the front, 19 mm in the rear.
 

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Sounds like beefing those up at this point wouldn't hurt. SO, looking into the ITR's, Good enough for you, good enough for me!
Keep in mind not to go too large in the front or you'll get under steer, and vice versa for the rear with over steer.
For reference, I'm running the 25.4mm x 4.5mm sway bar from the EM2 and the handling is neutral for the most part. On occasion, the ass end can get squirrely but nothing too difficult to correct.
 

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Keep in mind not to go too large in the front or you'll get under steer, and vice versa for the rear with over steer.
For reference, I'm running the 25.4mm x 4.5mm sway bar from the EM2 and the handling is neutral for the most part. On occasion, the ass end can get squirrely but nothing too difficult to correct.
I appreciate that as I do tend to go overboard? I must have read somewhere that 24f 22r worked well? I always felt the rear bar seemed and felt to small. Either way it's a wear item. My springs are fresh enough but I'm due to put some work in on the rest. I believe in well balanced neutral handling so I should probably go with a setup, struts/sway bars. I have my spring rate info somewhere.....I saved a link to a thread that had recommendations AzianK had a set and others liked them too. Question did you mean 25.4mm and 24.4?
 

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I appreciate that as I do tend to go overboard? I must have read somewhere that 24f 22r worked well? I always felt the rear bar seemed and felt to small. Either way it's a wear item. My springs are fresh enough but I'm due to put some work in on the rest. I believe in well balanced neutral handling so I should probably go with a setup, struts/sway bars. I have my spring rate info somewhere.....I saved a link to a thread that had recommendations AzianK had a set and others liked them too. Question did you mean 25.4mm and 24.4?
Nope, I meant 25.4x4.5. The second number is in reference to the thickness of the sway bar. The second generation sway bar is hollow, hence the second measurement. I mentioned that because Honda also makes a 25.4x3 front sway that came stock on the second gen base model (aka my shit box). If you're wondering why I bothered spending my money on the slightly thicker one, I needed something to clear my ITR header haha.
 
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