Thanks for the write-up! Question...can you clarify what parts you had to use the grinder on? I've installed 2 headers on my RSX now and I never needed to grind or cut off anything. Is this something that's specific to the Skunk2 Alpha?
Skunk2 Header Install
Hey guys, first post here! I just installed skunk2 alpha headers onto my 2002 rsx type-s and I was having some difficulties that I believe others have had such as with fitment and other aspects of the install. Also couldn't find much on the topic really anywhere so I'm going to try to make this as detailed as possible
A few things you're going to want first:
A jack that can lift the car up at least 19" (may be able to do it with other jacks but I found 19" made it easy)
Multiple wrenches
Torque wrench/ratchet
10mm-19mm sockets (cant quite remember which were needed, 12 & 14 were definitely the most used)
O2 socket/wrench
Breaker bar
flex head ratchet (mainly for convenience)
Impact drill definitely helps
socket extractor set (in case you strip any or someone else did)
PB blaster
Jack stands
Grinder
Safety glasses
anti seize
thread lock
zip ties
New exhaust manifold gasket
- May have to edit this list as I cant quite remember if this was everything
Getting the stock manifold off
First things first, after you've jacked the car up put it on jackstands you need to clean up the area you're working in a bit. Take the power steering line off with a 10mm socket (there are 2-3 bolts that need to come off) to allow for some more mobility behind your engine. You're going to need either a 12mm or 14mm socket/wrench to get 2 nuts and 3 bolts connecting the stock exhaust manifold to the head of the engine. Remove the old exhaust manifold gasket and clean the head a bit as well. All can be reached from the top of the engine/engine bay so there is no need to try to get it from under the car.
Next, you need to get under the car and start unbolting things from there. It doesn't exactly matter where you start unbolting things but I like to single out the area that I am working in so I took the Cat off from the rest of the exhaust. This requires removing 3 14mm bolts and be careful when you do this because something might drop down and hit you onto your head. After you have this removed you can continue taking off the manifold/cat combo. There is a bracket holding onto the cat that you may see, leave that for now and come back to that after everything else is off. This part may be slightly different for everyone, when removing the cat from the manifold there should be 2 spring bolts (may be regular bolts or something else, may differ from car to car hence the difference) that need to be removed with either a 12mm or 14mm (some trial and error may be required for that depending on what you have there) if these bolts break don't worry you shouldn't need them as your header should have all the necessary material. Now go back to the bracket from earlier and remove the bolt holding the header to it with a 14mm (again i cant remember completely) and everything will more or less come falling out so just watch your head.
More stuff under the car
A few things you should do while also under your car at this point are removing your swaybar at the 4 bolt which I believe were a 17mm socket. This will cause the swaybar to swing downwards so again watch your head. You should also notice that you have some play with the swaybar, pretty sure that's normal but don't quote me on that and do some research on swaybars and endlinks because this is focused on the header. That bracket holding the cat? Grind it out, you wont be able to have any headers with those in as far as I know. You should also check for basic maintenance things while under here but its not necessary
Getting your header in
Little side note; you may have to grind/cut away the hanger piece on the header it self, attempt with it and if it doesn't work then do without it
Now comes the hard part... not really
People have been complaining that the fitment is garbage and complaining about everything about these headers but they probably didnt have any help or just didnt try the methods I'm going to list for you below. And a little side note keep your adapter piece off for this time because it just makes it harder.. or dont, im just a random poster not a cop.
Try the Third method below first, this is what i did and it worked like a charm
First method I have seen: remove the swaybar completely and connect it after (or don't use one at all)
Now this method works and gives you a lot of space but honestly isn't worth all the hassle and anger of trying to get the swaybar back in. Essentially you just remove the swaybar from the endlinks using an Allan key and a wrench and then pop the header up with all the play you get from it
Second method: Remove the oil filter
Like the first method this has you doing some things that you probably dont need to do but hey to each their own. Obviously you're gonna have to remove the oil filter and deal with all of that nonsense but it should give you enough wiggle room to get the header up into the bay and in a good spot for the sway bar.
The Third and last method that I haven't seen or just couldn't find is the easy method (easiest for me at least)
Zip tie your swaybar as high and as far back it can go, this is going to give you a good amount of space to work with and will allow the header to slide underneath it.
Put the header in sideways. Yes you read that right, sideways. Have the 4-tube facing the drivers side and the other end should be facing the passenger side. Slide it under the car and start angling it to where you want it to go. You may have to move your jack on the passenger side around slightly but thats fine because you're prepared. Then all thats left to do is get the header above the sub frame/resting on the sub frame and up where you need it to be. AS SOON AS YOU GET IT RESTING ON TOP OF THE SUB FRAME YOU HAVE COMPLETED THE HARDEST PART
Finishing up
Now all that's left to do is bolt the header up to the head, put on a new exhaust manifold gasket and then bolt the header up to the head with the 2 nuts and 3 bolts you removed earlier or with new ones (the thread is 10x1.25 40-45mm depends on a few things but you can always compare and grind it down if needed). Attach the adapter piece to the header with whatever 2 bolts and nuts that can fit (genuinely cant remember if we were given the nuts/bolts for this) and then bolt the adapter to your exhaust (does not have to be done this way, you can attach the adapter to the exhaust first). Torque the bolts and nuts at the head/header connection to 33 foot pounds and torque the bolts/nuts to 16 foot pounds where it connects to the exhaust (or just full send that bitch whatever floats your boat) and you should have your new header properly installed!
Final remarks
This install wasn't as bad as people make it out to be as long as you have some help and/or some guidance. It takes time and it will get you frustrated but thats to be expected from a 20 year old car. Also a lot of these steps can be used on other headers. Please let me know if I have forgotten something or made a mistake somewhere
Hope this helps!
A few things you're going to want first:
A jack that can lift the car up at least 19" (may be able to do it with other jacks but I found 19" made it easy)
Multiple wrenches
Torque wrench/ratchet
10mm-19mm sockets (cant quite remember which were needed, 12 & 14 were definitely the most used)
O2 socket/wrench
Breaker bar
flex head ratchet (mainly for convenience)
Impact drill definitely helps
socket extractor set (in case you strip any or someone else did)
PB blaster
Jack stands
Grinder
Safety glasses
anti seize
thread lock
zip ties
New exhaust manifold gasket
- May have to edit this list as I cant quite remember if this was everything
Getting the stock manifold off
First things first, after you've jacked the car up put it on jackstands you need to clean up the area you're working in a bit. Take the power steering line off with a 10mm socket (there are 2-3 bolts that need to come off) to allow for some more mobility behind your engine. You're going to need either a 12mm or 14mm socket/wrench to get 2 nuts and 3 bolts connecting the stock exhaust manifold to the head of the engine. Remove the old exhaust manifold gasket and clean the head a bit as well. All can be reached from the top of the engine/engine bay so there is no need to try to get it from under the car.
Next, you need to get under the car and start unbolting things from there. It doesn't exactly matter where you start unbolting things but I like to single out the area that I am working in so I took the Cat off from the rest of the exhaust. This requires removing 3 14mm bolts and be careful when you do this because something might drop down and hit you onto your head. After you have this removed you can continue taking off the manifold/cat combo. There is a bracket holding onto the cat that you may see, leave that for now and come back to that after everything else is off. This part may be slightly different for everyone, when removing the cat from the manifold there should be 2 spring bolts (may be regular bolts or something else, may differ from car to car hence the difference) that need to be removed with either a 12mm or 14mm (some trial and error may be required for that depending on what you have there) if these bolts break don't worry you shouldn't need them as your header should have all the necessary material. Now go back to the bracket from earlier and remove the bolt holding the header to it with a 14mm (again i cant remember completely) and everything will more or less come falling out so just watch your head.
More stuff under the car
A few things you should do while also under your car at this point are removing your swaybar at the 4 bolt which I believe were a 17mm socket. This will cause the swaybar to swing downwards so again watch your head. You should also notice that you have some play with the swaybar, pretty sure that's normal but don't quote me on that and do some research on swaybars and endlinks because this is focused on the header. That bracket holding the cat? Grind it out, you wont be able to have any headers with those in as far as I know. You should also check for basic maintenance things while under here but its not necessary
Getting your header in
Little side note; you may have to grind/cut away the hanger piece on the header it self, attempt with it and if it doesn't work then do without it
Now comes the hard part... not really
People have been complaining that the fitment is garbage and complaining about everything about these headers but they probably didnt have any help or just didnt try the methods I'm going to list for you below. And a little side note keep your adapter piece off for this time because it just makes it harder.. or dont, im just a random poster not a cop.
Try the Third method below first, this is what i did and it worked like a charm
First method I have seen: remove the swaybar completely and connect it after (or don't use one at all)
Now this method works and gives you a lot of space but honestly isn't worth all the hassle and anger of trying to get the swaybar back in. Essentially you just remove the swaybar from the endlinks using an Allan key and a wrench and then pop the header up with all the play you get from it
Second method: Remove the oil filter
Like the first method this has you doing some things that you probably dont need to do but hey to each their own. Obviously you're gonna have to remove the oil filter and deal with all of that nonsense but it should give you enough wiggle room to get the header up into the bay and in a good spot for the sway bar.
The Third and last method that I haven't seen or just couldn't find is the easy method (easiest for me at least)
Zip tie your swaybar as high and as far back it can go, this is going to give you a good amount of space to work with and will allow the header to slide underneath it.
Put the header in sideways. Yes you read that right, sideways. Have the 4-tube facing the drivers side and the other end should be facing the passenger side. Slide it under the car and start angling it to where you want it to go. You may have to move your jack on the passenger side around slightly but thats fine because you're prepared. Then all thats left to do is get the header above the sub frame/resting on the sub frame and up where you need it to be. AS SOON AS YOU GET IT RESTING ON TOP OF THE SUB FRAME YOU HAVE COMPLETED THE HARDEST PART
Finishing up
Now all that's left to do is bolt the header up to the head, put on a new exhaust manifold gasket and then bolt the header up to the head with the 2 nuts and 3 bolts you removed earlier or with new ones (the thread is 10x1.25 40-45mm depends on a few things but you can always compare and grind it down if needed). Attach the adapter piece to the header with whatever 2 bolts and nuts that can fit (genuinely cant remember if we were given the nuts/bolts for this) and then bolt the adapter to your exhaust (does not have to be done this way, you can attach the adapter to the exhaust first). Torque the bolts and nuts at the head/header connection to 33 foot pounds and torque the bolts/nuts to 16 foot pounds where it connects to the exhaust (or just full send that bitch whatever floats your boat) and you should have your new header properly installed!
Final remarks
This install wasn't as bad as people make it out to be as long as you have some help and/or some guidance. It takes time and it will get you frustrated but thats to be expected from a 20 year old car. Also a lot of these steps can be used on other headers. Please let me know if I have forgotten something or made a mistake somewhere
Hope this helps!
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
There were two areas where I used the grinder one was mainly for much needed convenience (in my opinion) and the other I felt was a necessity to install the headerThanks for the write-up! Question...can you clarify what parts you had to use the grinder on? I've installed 2 headers on my RSX now and I never needed to grind or cut off anything. Is this something that's specific to the Skunk2 Alpha?
The first one was the hanger piece on the skunk2 header, this slides into the exhaust hanger where the cat was on. I honestly didn’t see any way to get the header above the sub frame without removing that piece, I noticed the ktuned header doesn’t even have this piece.
The second piece was a bracket that the downpipe or cat was connected to and it’s above the sun Frame relatively close to the half shaft I believe
Thanks for the detailed write up! Did you have any rubbing with the sway bar after install? Did you run the ktuned header before the skunk2? I'm debating between ktuned and skunk2 header but can't decide.
skunk 2 makes the power, not sure about pricing but they are definitely one of the cheapest options available.
Other than the sway bar issue, everything is good on the skunk 2.
My recommendation, skip the em2 sway bar, skip the oem sway bar, skip the brackets they include, none of those worked for me. Basically took an em 2 sway bar and made it straight, that solved the issue and definitely easy to install/remove anytime now...
I honestly don't know how anyone was able to get the stock em2 sway or oem sway to work with this. And even if it did, the metal banging would annoy the hell out of me.
Also side note, cut off the hangar off and at minimum run the esmm with these as they are known to crack on the welds.
Other than the sway bar issue, everything is good on the skunk 2.
My recommendation, skip the em2 sway bar, skip the oem sway bar, skip the brackets they include, none of those worked for me. Basically took an em 2 sway bar and made it straight, that solved the issue and definitely easy to install/remove anytime now...
I honestly don't know how anyone was able to get the stock em2 sway or oem sway to work with this. And even if it did, the metal banging would annoy the hell out of me.
Also side note, cut off the hangar off and at minimum run the esmm with these as they are known to crack on the welds.
My friend is currently running the ktuned header, him and I installed it together using practically the same steps, I have no issue with it hitting the sway bar (2002-2004 have like 23mm sway bars, 05-06 have 25mm I believe and they may rub). Both are great headers, skunk2 is a bit pricier but you get more power out of it, ktuned was the easier install though.Thanks for the detailed write up! Did you have any rubbing with the sway bar after install? Did you run the ktuned header before the skunk2? I'm debating between ktuned and skunk2 header but can't decide.
I agree with everything said here, some people get lemons from skunk2 and have the sway bar issue, luckily I did not. I’m also running hasport 70a motor mounts which were quite the easy install and you should absolutely do mounts before headersskunk 2 makes the power, not sure about pricing but they are definitely one of the cheapest options available.
Other than the sway bar issue, everything is good on the skunk 2.
My recommendation, skip the em2 sway bar, skip the oem sway bar, skip the brackets they include, none of those worked for me. Basically took an em 2 sway bar and made it straight, that solved the issue and definitely easy to install/remove anytime now...
I honestly don't know how anyone was able to get the stock em2 sway or oem sway to work with this. And even if it did, the metal banging would annoy the hell out of me.
Also side note, cut off the hangar off and at minimum run the esmm with these as they are known to crack on the welds.
Thanks forskunk 2 makes the power, not sure about pricing but they are definitely one of the cheapest options available.
Other than the sway bar issue, everything is good on the skunk 2.
My recommendation, skip the em2 sway bar, skip the oem sway bar, skip the brackets they include, none of those worked for me. Basically took an em 2 sway bar and made it straight, that solved the issue and definitely easy to install/remove anytime now...
I honestly don't know how anyone was able to get the stock em2 sway or oem sway to work with this. And even if it did, the metal banging would annoy the hell out of me.
Also side note, cut off the hangar off and at minimum run the esmm with these as they are known to crack on the welds.
Thanks for the info, this pretty much inline with my research. Glad to know not to spend money on more sway bars. I'm thinking Skunk2 > ktuned for power, but still hesitant if running no sway bar would work on street/track.skunk 2 makes the power, not sure about pricing but they are definitely one of the cheapest options available.
Other than the sway bar issue, everything is good on the skunk 2.
My recommendation, skip the em2 sway bar, skip the oem sway bar, skip the brackets they include, none of those worked for me. Basically took an em 2 sway bar and made it straight, that solved the issue and definitely easy to install/remove anytime now...
I honestly don't know how anyone was able to get the stock em2 sway or oem sway to work with this. And even if it did, the metal banging would annoy the hell out of me.
Also side note, cut off the hangar off and at minimum run the esmm with these as they are known to crack on the welds.
As far as I know running no sway bar will work, you just will not be able to handle turns as well as with a sway barThanks for
Thanks for the info, this pretty much inline with my research. Glad to know not to spend money on more sway bars. I'm thinking Skunk2 > ktuned for power, but still hesitant if running no sway bar would work on street/track.
My header has no fitment issues at all. Everything is a perfect fit with no rubbing, so I may be one of the lucky ones. I did the oil filter removal method as I waited until it was time for an oil change to install my header. Install was a piece of cake this way.
Yeah I've heard running no sway just need some getting used to. I think I'll pull the trigger and get Skunk2 and gamble with the oem sway bar.As far as I know running no sway bar will work, you just will not be able to handle turns as well as with a sway bar
Skunk 2 is well worth it for the money, it sounds good too. Also I did plenty of research before the install, tried using the included sway brackets, em2 sway none worked, so cut the ends off the em2 sway and had a straight bar welded. Had I known this, I would've went this route from the getgo. For those that got lucky, kudos to you especially if you also got away with nothing hitting while driving.
Don't gamble with the sway, you can make one way nicer, if you see how stupid the oe sway bar design is, you will understand. I used oe em2 cut the ends and had a straight bar welded and it looks oe, but doesn't have the stupid looped oem design. Might cost 1-200 but well worth it.
Also would go for the older skunk 2 headers, the new ones have cost cutting built into them, they merged 2 pipes instead of the nice merge they used on the older versions.
Might rob 1 pony but 1 pony is 1 pony.
Don't gamble with the sway, you can make one way nicer, if you see how stupid the oe sway bar design is, you will understand. I used oe em2 cut the ends and had a straight bar welded and it looks oe, but doesn't have the stupid looped oem design. Might cost 1-200 but well worth it.
Also would go for the older skunk 2 headers, the new ones have cost cutting built into them, they merged 2 pipes instead of the nice merge they used on the older versions.
Might rob 1 pony but 1 pony is 1 pony.
Also get an oem s2000 donut gasket.
Exactly, not a bad idea, also I know other aftermarket sway bars fit, but like civic redline said the design is garbageYeah I've heard running no sway just need some getting used to. I think I'll pull the trigger and get Skunk2 and gamble with the oem sway bar.
Good info thanks! I also remeber theres a thread about using a CRV/element front sway that is a straight bar and will clear most headers. Only caveat is the CRV bar is THICC (30mm?), so may induce more understeer.Skunk 2 is well worth it for the money, it sounds good too. Also I did plenty of research before the install, tried using the included sway brackets, em2 sway none worked, so cut the ends off the em2 sway and had a straight bar welded. Had I known this, I would've went this route from the getgo. For those that got lucky, kudos to you especially if you also got away with nothing hitting while driving.
Don't gamble with the sway, you can make one way nicer, if you see how stupid the oe sway bar design is, you will understand. I used oe em2 cut the ends and had a straight bar welded and it looks oe, but doesn't have the stupid looped oem design. Might cost 1-200 but well worth it.
Also would go for the older skunk 2 headers, the new ones have cost cutting built into them, they merged 2 pipes instead of the nice merge they used on the older versions.
Might rob 1 pony but 1 pony is 1 pony.
There's actually a used skunk2 on ebay right now:
02-06 Acura RSX Type-S Skunk2 Alpha Headers Down Pipe Exhaust Manifold DC5 K20A2 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 02-06 Acura RSX Type-S Skunk2 Alpha Headers Down Pipe Exhaust Manifold DC5 K20A2 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Can you tell if this is the older version?
Was just coming here to say this. I believe it was the Element bar that bolts right up and is a straight across design that goes under the header. Not sure on the thickness, though.Good info thanks! I also remeber theres a thread about using a CRV/element front sway that is a straight bar and will clear most headers. Only caveat is the CRV bar is THICC (30mm?), so may induce more understeer.
I could probably have more made im sure there of tons of people running no sways, the way I did it is pretty efficient, and makes it easy to reinstall/reuninstall anything in the future. I'll probably post pics later.
^
that is the older skunk design its better imo, you can see the merge collecter piece on where it goes from 2-1 they no longer include that on the new ones well at least on the one I got. Honestly though probably makes no difference, they still make great power. You're going to need to polish that and ceramic coat it if you want to bring it back to new.
The one I used was not a element bar, had I known that I probably would've went that route, but just came across the idea of not looping the dam bar over the header instead straight below through the shop, and they did the work which worked out great lucky to have a great shop!
^
that is the older skunk design its better imo, you can see the merge collecter piece on where it goes from 2-1 they no longer include that on the new ones well at least on the one I got. Honestly though probably makes no difference, they still make great power. You're going to need to polish that and ceramic coat it if you want to bring it back to new.
The one I used was not a element bar, had I known that I probably would've went that route, but just came across the idea of not looping the dam bar over the header instead straight below through the shop, and they did the work which worked out great lucky to have a great shop!
Yeah pictures would be great!I could probably have more made im sure there of tons of people running no sways, the way I did it is pretty efficient, and makes it easy to reinstall/reuninstall anything in the future. I'll probably post pics later.
^
that is the older skunk design its better imo, you can see the merge collecter piece on where it goes from 2-1 they no longer include that on the new ones well at least on the one I got. Honestly though probably makes no difference, they still make great power. You're going to need to polish that and ceramic coat it if you want to bring it back to new.
The one I used was not a element bar, had I known that I probably would've went that route, but just came across the idea of not looping the dam bar over the header instead straight below through the shop, and they did the work which worked out great lucky to have a great shop!
And I might go with a new skunk2 since I just realized the ebay skunk2 header doesn't look like it comes with the test pipe (granted I could probably just have an exhaust shop weld one together for me, but at that point cost might same as a brand new one.)
element bar doesn't work well not for sure at least but on the drive side it appears to be a few ugly bends that might prevent it, but might be worth a try.
Yeah I saw that little bend and plus it's so beefy that it may induce more understeer then I would want.element bar doesn't work well not for sure at least but on the drive side it appears to be a few ugly bends that might prevent it, but might be worth a try.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
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