Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Out on bail
Joined
·
3,816 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone added pistons and or rods to their stage 1 kit? If so, are they worth it? I am still debating whether i should pistons in while im getting the kit installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
XxThInKxX said:
Has anyone added pistons and or rods to their stage 1 kit? If so, are they worth it? I am still debating whether i should pistons in while im getting the kit installed.
If you add pistons and rods to a stage one you are practically making it a stage II. The addition of pistons and rods is to allow for more boost since the stock pistons can handle only so much.

Is it worth it? I guess that depends on how much power you want. With the addition of the pistons and rods along with a few other components you can push out 350whp to 400whp.

It will also depend on if you have a type-s or base.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,729 Posts
Boost Junkie - Who would you suggest I have install a stage 2? I live in Northridge.

-eric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,623 Posts
Ericcarver1 said:
Boost Junkie - Who would you suggest I have install a stage 2? I live in Northridge.

-eric
Good luck finding someone to do a piston/rod install for cheap
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,729 Posts
Who said anything about cheap. I said who can do it.

-eric
 

·
Out on bail
Joined
·
3,816 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
well im just gonna stick with stage 1. the reason im kinda shootin toward stayin with stock motor is cuz i dont wanna push 16-17 psi, cuz i want to keep it a daily driver and a safe amount of boost. If i stay with stock motor, will it be able to handle stage 1 well?

I plan on trying to keep it down on the full throttle, but i do tend to be heavy footed. I am also planning on watching gauges carefully, listening to engine noises, and tuning whenever it needs something minor. When it comes down to it, all i want is to run stage 1 @ 8-10 psi without blowing my motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,623 Posts
XxThInKxX said:
well im just gonna stick with stage 1. the reason im kinda shootin toward stayin with stock motor is cuz i dont wanna push 16-17 psi, cuz i want to keep it a daily driver and a safe amount of boost. If i stay with stock motor, will it be able to handle stage 1 well?

I think it should as long as you "take care" of it.....Monitoring everything is important....
 

·
Out on bail
Joined
·
3,816 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
yea, i plan on doing that, i just really dont wanna have to put in a new motor cuz they are very expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
If you're running stage I and you are already saying you will be very careful about tuning and everything running 8psi on stock motor is perfectly fine. And when my car was tuned at 7psi it felt fast as hell still.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,623 Posts
XxThInKxX said:
yea, i plan on doing that, i just really dont wanna have to put in a new motor cuz they are very expensive.
I saw a guy selling the k20a2 and tranny with 15k miles for 2800....Thats not a bad deal at all....Im sure you could find a k20a2 for 2000 right now - prob alot cheaper in the next year or two.....

Pistons,rings,rods would prob run around 1000-1100 - say another 1000 grand for install and your talking the price of a used k20a2 motor....

i wouldnt run the upgraded piston/rod combo unless u plan on going past 12 psi
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,936 Posts
Do you guys get piston slaps when the engine is cold?

One thing I hate about forged pistons is that they slap during warm-up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
what do u mean by slap? Is it that "tic tic tic" noise when its warming up then stops after u run it for a while?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,936 Posts
bozrahrsx said:
what do u mean by slap? Is it that "tic tic tic" noise when its warming up then stops after u run it for a while?
Not really a "tic" sound, that's more like the valvetrain or ignition. It's a very distinctive sound of metal pounding on metal.

When I had forged pistons in the KA24 240SX, it would always make that pounding sound. Forged pistons requires a lose clearance so it will expand into the right tolerance. In the morning when you warm up, the piston barrel will be a bit lose and it will "slap" against the cylinder wall until it is warmed up to op. temperature. Just imagine you hold the piston inside the cylinder and you are able to wiggle it from side to side, and the sound of the impact is the piston "slap"

Over time that will lead to scraping of the cylinder wall and might result in loss compression. forged pistons are rarely used in OEM applications unless it is low expansion forged pistons.
 

·
Out on bail
Joined
·
3,816 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
RsxManJoe said:
I saw a guy selling the k20a2 and tranny with 15k miles for 2800....Thats not a bad deal at all....Im sure you could find a k20a2 for 2000 right now - prob alot cheaper in the next year or two.....

Pistons,rings,rods would prob run around 1000-1100 - say another 1000 grand for install and your talking the price of a used k20a2 motor....

i wouldnt run the upgraded piston/rod combo unless u plan on going past 12 psi
Very cool, ill keep that in mind. So i guess ill just do 8-10 psi on stock motor. now its time to save for it :).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Bigbuyer2477 said:
Not really a "tic" sound, that's more like the valvetrain or ignition. It's a very distinctive sound of metal pounding on metal.

When I had forged pistons in the KA24 240SX, it would always make that pounding sound. Forged pistons requires a lose clearance so it will expand into the right tolerance. In the morning when you warm up, the piston barrel will be a bit lose and it will "slap" against the cylinder wall until it is warmed up to op. temperature. Just imagine you hold the piston inside the cylinder and you are able to wiggle it from side to side, and the sound of the impact is the piston "slap"

Over time that will lead to scraping of the cylinder wall and might result in loss compression. forged pistons are rarely used in OEM applications unless it is low expansion forged pistons.

Depending on the piston type, you get more noise with some than others..

Offset pistons are much quieter (example would be Wiseco).. :D

SRPs tend to be a little louder as they are not offset.. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,147 Posts
ok lets say we get stage 1 and add the pistons and rods and lets say we want to stay on the safe side... should we boost low?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,936 Posts
integra_k20a2 said:
ok lets say we get stage 1 and add the pistons and rods and lets say we want to stay on the safe side... should we boost low?
Well,

The whole point of upgrading the pistons and the rods would be to increase power production. So if you don't boost up........ :dontknow:

The only thing would be the block itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,936 Posts
bluesiTYPER said:
Depending on the piston type, you get more noise with some than others..

Offset pistons are much quieter (example would be Wiseco).. :D

SRPs tend to be a little louder as they are not offset.. :)
Well, they are still not as quiet as the cast\low expansion pistons, and they still scuff somewhat furing could starts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Bigbuyer2477 said:
Well, they are still not as quiet as the cast\low expansion pistons, and they still scuff somewhat furing could starts.
No, not as quiet, but offset forged pistons are more quiet than the non-offset..

As far as scuffing cylinder walls during cold start-up, I've run non-offset SRPs in my previous 350whp daily driven LS/VTEC setup for over 50,000 miles with no problem..When I sold the vehicle, the new owner did blow the engine in about 15,000 more miles on it, but when I took it apart for him, it was clearly detonation that caused the mishap (he got boost happy without letting me retune it for him), not bore wear..

The point being that cylinder wall scuffing is the least of the concern :)..I am a machinist, I've never seen an engine failure or compression/leakdown problem from this on a properly and built and tuned engine..
 

·
Bitch where's my Money!
Joined
·
844 Posts
you can get forged pistons with extremely low silicon content and they allow for insane tight piston to wall clearances as they have near zero expansion. now about the wisecos...when you hone the bore to each piston how much clearance do you leave?

where in the relm of .003 - .005 do you machine it to? i think it realy depends on the intended power output. the more power (heat) the more they expand.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top