If you add pistons and rods to a stage one you are practically making it a stage II. The addition of pistons and rods is to allow for more boost since the stock pistons can handle only so much.XxThInKxX said:Has anyone added pistons and or rods to their stage 1 kit? If so, are they worth it? I am still debating whether i should pistons in while im getting the kit installed.
XxThInKxX said:well im just gonna stick with stage 1. the reason im kinda shootin toward stayin with stock motor is cuz i dont wanna push 16-17 psi, cuz i want to keep it a daily driver and a safe amount of boost. If i stay with stock motor, will it be able to handle stage 1 well?
I saw a guy selling the k20a2 and tranny with 15k miles for 2800....Thats not a bad deal at all....Im sure you could find a k20a2 for 2000 right now - prob alot cheaper in the next year or two.....XxThInKxX said:yea, i plan on doing that, i just really dont wanna have to put in a new motor cuz they are very expensive.
Not really a "tic" sound, that's more like the valvetrain or ignition. It's a very distinctive sound of metal pounding on metal.bozrahrsx said:what do u mean by slap? Is it that "tic tic tic" noise when its warming up then stops after u run it for a while?
Very cool, ill keep that in mind. So i guess ill just do 8-10 psi on stock motor. now its time to save for it .RsxManJoe said:I saw a guy selling the k20a2 and tranny with 15k miles for 2800....Thats not a bad deal at all....Im sure you could find a k20a2 for 2000 right now - prob alot cheaper in the next year or two.....
Pistons,rings,rods would prob run around 1000-1100 - say another 1000 grand for install and your talking the price of a used k20a2 motor....
i wouldnt run the upgraded piston/rod combo unless u plan on going past 12 psi
Bigbuyer2477 said:Not really a "tic" sound, that's more like the valvetrain or ignition. It's a very distinctive sound of metal pounding on metal.
When I had forged pistons in the KA24 240SX, it would always make that pounding sound. Forged pistons requires a lose clearance so it will expand into the right tolerance. In the morning when you warm up, the piston barrel will be a bit lose and it will "slap" against the cylinder wall until it is warmed up to op. temperature. Just imagine you hold the piston inside the cylinder and you are able to wiggle it from side to side, and the sound of the impact is the piston "slap"
Over time that will lead to scraping of the cylinder wall and might result in loss compression. forged pistons are rarely used in OEM applications unless it is low expansion forged pistons.
Well,integra_k20a2 said:ok lets say we get stage 1 and add the pistons and rods and lets say we want to stay on the safe side... should we boost low?
Well, they are still not as quiet as the cast\low expansion pistons, and they still scuff somewhat furing could starts.bluesiTYPER said:Depending on the piston type, you get more noise with some than others..
Offset pistons are much quieter (example would be Wiseco)..
SRPs tend to be a little louder as they are not offset..
No, not as quiet, but offset forged pistons are more quiet than the non-offset..Bigbuyer2477 said:Well, they are still not as quiet as the cast\low expansion pistons, and they still scuff somewhat furing could starts.