[Shorty15c4]

Hey everyone. After having my RSX Base 5 speed for 6 years, I finally got around to do my dream swap. I'm not one to chase those crazy high HP numbers. This is my daily driver and I just wanted a simple stock reliable K24 swap done. More torque = better drivability and with my K20A3, I was getting tired of being slow.

Many people told me to just sell it and buy a different car. I've driven faster cars before Challenger R/T and Mustang 5.0s, but I can't look away from how nimble and practical the RSX is. Plus, considering my car insurance still thinks it's a Base and not a Type-S, my insurance is still cheaper compared to Type-S.

For the most part, what I've seen here in CRSX are K24 swaps that involve changing the cams or the A2 head, so I really didn't know what numbers to expect when just doing a stock swap.

Supporting mods include:

• AEM V2 Short Ram Intake
• DC Sports Race Header (Type-S)
• ExMag RSR Catback exhaust
• EXEDY 08806 Racing Clutch Kit
• 8lb Competition Clutch 2-800-STU Flywheel
• OEM Type-S Throttle body
• RBC Intake manifold
• Kpro V4
• EM2 Sway bar
• Mishimoto Radiator and Thermostat

So for the most part we have bolt ons and a lighten flywheel.

The K24A was bought from Orlando JDM. I wanted a JDM engine for the low mileage (~50K Miles) and the 90-day warranty. The engine was $800.00.

As you can see from the part below, the K24A would be from one of these 3 vehicles:

2004-2006 Accord 24S/ 24T / 24TL = 197HP & 171 lb-ft
2006-2008 Accord 24TL Type S = 197HP & 171 lb-ft
2008-2013 Accord Type S = 206HP & 171 lb-ft

I did not change the oil pump, timing chain or tensioner. Rear main seal and crankshaft seal were replaced. New clutch, pilot and throw out bearing were replaced.

All of my accessories from the base model were placed on the K24A. So I have power steering and AC.

Shout out to Chris and Jose for doing the swap. Labor for doing the swap was $1300.00. I dropped it off Wednesday and pick it up Friday. Dyno tune was performed on Tuesday by Darrell of Proven Power in Tampa.

So the question everyone is probably asking, how much power gain?

Before I did the swap, I went to Proven Power in March to see how much my K20A3 was making with just bolt ons.

157 WHP / 141 lb-ft

VIDEO OF K20A3 Dyno Run

With the K24A:

208 WHP / 169 lb-ft

VIDEO OF K24A Dyno Run

HP Dyno Chart comparing K24A and K20A3

Needless to say, I am very happy with the numbers. Driving is so much fun and having real vtec is awesome. The drivability is waay better. RPMs doesn't drop when I turn on the AC or turn my steering wheel. Just cruising on the highway and just stepping on it in 5th gear and the car just moves! I'm not one to redline and abuse my car but even just taking it up to 5-6K, I just think to myself, holy shit it's pushing me back in my seat! No CEL, SRS or ABS lights on the dash. Idle is set to 900. Smooth ride, no vibrations.

My next plan is to install Hard Race engine mounts since the Weapon-R Torque damper isn't doing much. Under heavy load and sudden deceleration, the header hits the sway bar. Correction, the midpipe was hitting the bottom of the floor. We pinched part of the section to give it more clearance and now under normal driving, it no longer hits. I will still install the hard race mounts because the motor moves too much and rubs on the hood headliner. It's not a problem now but it will be in the future.

As far as performance plans, I plan to go back to Proven Power and get a E85 tune, bigger injectors and pump. Maybe once the 5-Speed transmission fails, I'll look into the Civic Si 6-Speed Transmission with LSD.

Cost tear down: Total Cost $4005.00

Labor $1,300
Engine $800
Dyno Tune $400
RBC intake & Sway $360.00
Clutch $315
Mishimoto Radiator $260
TB Adaptor & Gasket $123
Type-S Throttle Body OEM $100
Thermostat $71
End links $50
CRV Post mount $50
Spark plugs $27
Engine Oil $23
Rear main & Crank seal $23
Coolant $20
HondaBond $20
Serpentine Belt $18
Freon $10
Oil Filter $10
Brake cleaner $10
P/S Fuild $9
Pilot Bushing $6


Now some people may say, "Wow you spent $4K on the swap? You could have done it yourself, bla bla bla, should have went Turbo". This is my daily and reliability was the key part of this build. There are plenty of things that can go wrong going turbo and would have been more expensive to do it the right way. I live in an apartment so I couldn't do the swap myself. I'm posting everything on how much I spent so people who are interested in doing the swap in their base can have a good idea on how much to spend and on what.

If anyone has any questions about doing this swap, feel free to private message me.

 

[Kalani619]

Factory ac lines fit okay with the new block?

 

[nats007]

Nice work and congratulations! Nothing wrong with having a reliable NA setup.

K24 swap was my favorite mod as well for my RSX. Unfortunately, it's down at the moment (freak accident with water methanol injection), but plan to get her running again soon.

 

[Type-Spaz]

great job man!!! The K24 honestly should have came stock in the rsx from the factory.

 

[Shorty15c4]

They fit pretty well. The area between the radiator support, AC line and hood support prop doesn't show any signs rubbing. Unfortunately the hood does rub a bit on the AEM intake and the elbow on the AC line.

I may had to switch to a Civic EP3 AC line that goes around the passenger side of the engine instead of how it goes above the valve cover.

Also when I upgrade to the hardrace mounts it should hold the motor better while hopefully not introducing more vibrations compared to the weapon R torque mount.

I'll provide pictures in a bit.

 

[Miles Haworth]

"Unfortunately the hood does rub a bit on the AEM intake and the elbow on the AC line.

I may had to switch to a Civic EP3 AC line that goes around the passenger side of the engine instead of how it goes above the valve cover."

At least you already know the solution man. Congratulations!

 

[Shorty15c4]

Under heavy load and sudden deceleration, the header hits the sway bar.

Correction, the midpipe was hitting the bottom of the floor. We pinched part of the section to give it more clearance and now under normal driving, it no longer hits. I will still install the hard race mounts because the motor moves too much and the RBC intake manifold rubs on the hood headliner.

 

[VanTypeS]

Clean swap man! Looks like it came from the factory like that. I am undergoing the same process at the moment with my EP3 - Kind of anxious and excited at the same time.

Did you run 50VTC and Type S oil pump?

 

[Shorty15c4]

Clean swap man! Looks like it came from the factory like that. I am undergoing the same process at the moment with my EP3 - Kind of anxious and excited at the same time.

Did you run 50VTC and Type S oil pump?

Thanks! Looking into getting a wrinkle red valve cover to brighten things up a bit.

I'm sure you'll love it in the EP3. One month in and I still love driving my car. It's not a monster but it's nice to be able to keep up with modern sedans, weaving in and out of traffic. Anything about 5K RPM (on vtec of course) and it just moves.

Not sure if you'll experience any hood fitment issues on the EP3. Currently praying my AC line doesn't bust before the EP3 AC line I ordered gets here. Part of the AC line is currently rubbing on the front of the hood and I see a crack forming. No AC in Florida sucks big time. Also be sure to get HardRace engine mounts. Perfect for no cabin vibration noise but holds the engine much better especially with all that extra torque.

I did not run the 50 VTC or Type-S Oil pump. I didn't want to touch the low mileage JDM engine to keep the reliability.The only thing I did was replace the crank seals and oil pan gasket. I don't track this car so the better oil pump isn't necessary for normal to spirited daily driving.

 

[Dc5.jordan]

Hey everyone. After having my RSX Base 5 speed for 6 years, I finally got around to do my dream swap. I'm not one to chase those crazy high HP numbers. This is my daily driver and I just wanted a simple stock reliable K24 swap done. More torque = better drivability and with my K20A3, I was getting tired of being slow.

Many people told me to just sell it and buy a different car. I've driven faster cars before Challenger R/T and Mustang 5.0s, but I can't look away from how nimble and practical the RSX is. Plus, considering my car insurance still thinks it's a Base and not a Type-S, my insurance is still cheaper compared to Type-S.

For the most part, what I've seen here in CRSX are K24 swaps that involve changing the cams or the A2 head, so I really didn't know what numbers to expect when just doing a stock swap.

Supporting mods include:

• AEM V2 Short Ram Intake
• DC Sports Race Header (Type-S)
• ExMag RSR Catback exhaust
• EXEDY 08806 Racing Clutch Kit
• 11lb Competition Clutch 2-800-STU Flywheel
• OEM Type-S Throttle body
• RBC Intake manifold
• Kpro V4
• EM2 Sway bar
• Mishimoto Radiator and Thermostat

So for the most part we have bolt ons and a lighten flywheel.

The K24A was bought from Orlando JDM. I wanted a JDM engine for the low mileage (~50K Miles) and the 90-day warranty. The engine was $800.00.

As you can see from the part below, the K24A would be from one of these 3 vehicles:

2004-2006 Accord 24S/ 24T / 24TL = 197HP & 171 lb-ft
2006-2008 Accord 24TL Type S = 197HP & 171 lb-ft
2008-2013 Accord Type S = 206HP & 171 lb-ft

I did not change the oil pump, timing chain or tensioner. Rear main seal and crankshaft seal were replaced. New clutch, pilot and throw out bearing were replaced.

All of my accessories from the base model were placed on the K24A. So I have power steering and AC.

Shout out to Chris and Jose for doing the swap. Labor for doing the swap was $1300.00. I dropped it off Wednesday and pick it up Friday. Dyno tune was performed on Tuesday by Darrell of Proven Power in Tampa.

So the question everyone is probably asking, how much power gain?

Before I did the swap, I went to Proven Power in March to see how much my K20A3 was making with just bolt ons.

157 WHP / 141 lb-ft

VIDEO OF K20A3 Dyno Run

View attachment 565891

With the K24A:

208 WHP / 169 lb-ft

VIDEO OF K24A Dyno Run

View attachment 565890


HP Dyno Chart comparing K24A and K20A3
View attachment 565892

Needless to say, I am very happy with the numbers. Driving is so much fun and having real vtec is awesome. The drivability is waay better. RPMs doesn't drop when I turn on the AC or turn my steering wheel. Just cruising on the highway and just stepping on it in 5th gear and the car just moves! I'm not one to redline and abuse my car but even just taking it up to 5-6K, I just think to myself, holy shit it's pushing me back in my seat! No CEL, SRS or ABS lights on the dash. Idle is set to 900. Smooth ride, no vibrations.

My next plan is to install Hard Race engine mounts since the Weapon-R Torque damper isn't doing much. Under heavy load and sudden deceleration, the header hits the sway bar. Correction, the midpipe was hitting the bottom of the floor. We pinched part of the section to give it more clearance and now under normal driving, it no longer hits. I will still install the hard race mounts because the motor moves too much and rubs on the hood headliner. It's not a problem now but it will be in the future.

As far as performance plans, I plan to go back to Proven Power and get a E85 tune, bigger injectors and pump. Maybe once the 5-Speed transmission fails, I'll look into the Civic Si 6-Speed Transmission with LSD.

Cost tear down: Total Cost $4005.00

Labor $1,300
Engine $800
Dyno Tune $400
RBC intake & Sway $360.00
Clutch $315
Mishimoto Radiator $260
TB Adaptor & Gasket $123
Type-S Throttle Body OEM $100
Thermostat $71
End links $50
CRV Post mount $50
Spark plugs $27
Engine Oil $23
Rear main & Crank seal $23
Coolant $20
HondaBond $20
Serpentine Belt $18
Freon $10
Oil Filter $10
Brake cleaner $10
P/S Fuild $9
Pilot Bushing $6


Now some people may say, "Wow you spent $4K on the swap? You could have done it yourself, bla bla bla, should have went Turbo". This is my daily and reliability was the key part of this build. There are plenty of things that can go wrong going turbo and would have been more expensive to do it the right way. I live in an apartment so I couldn't do the swap myself. I'm posting everything on how much I spent so people who are interested in doing the swap in their base can have a good idea on how much to spend and on what.

If anyone has any questions about doing this swap, feel free to private message me.

Did u run a k20 or k24 water housing?

 

[Shorty15c4]

Did u run a k20 or k24 water housing?

The water housing from the K20A3 was used so it can match up with my alternator.

 

[Shorty15c4]

An update on my build...

I installed the AC line that went over the top of the throttle body, now it goes around to the side. No more rubbing problems.

I got my front sway bar back on and got rid of the DC Sports Race Header and RSR cat back exhaust. I am now running Megan Racing Shorty header with a modified Megan Racing test pipe to fit the taller K24 block.

For the Catback, I initially went with a Invidia Q300, but holy shit was that a pain for my mechanic to put on. Nothing fit properly and the mid pipe was hitting the floor. Once we got everything on, I hated the Q300. Sure it's quiet at idle and when you doing 1% throttle. But holy shit does this cat back drone! Anything above 65 mph and the whole cabin felt like it was reverberating with the exhaust note. Deceleration was even worse.

I bought a stock OEM RSX Type S muffler and hooked it up to the Invidia midpipe / resonator. No more drone and I'm now stock quiet. I'm not an old man by any stretch of the imagination, but the whole being loud just to get moving was getting annoying and obnoxious. Now I'm only remotely loud when I'm hitting vtec, as it should be. There is no reason to be loud when I'm just cruising along.

Now the next question is how much power did I lose by limiting the exhaust?

Before I made 208 whp / 169 wtq.

Oddly enough, on the same dyno as before, I am now making 211 whp / 159 wtq. So I gained 3 hp but lost 10 lbs-ft of torque. My tuner thinks it was the DCRH because it was in a pretty banged up shape. It didn't leak but it's been repaired near the flex pipe and where the manifold meets the block. Also the RSR catback midpipe/resonator was chopped and replaced, the only thing left was the muffler.

Either way I am still happy with the power she is making. The power of the K24A and the silence of a stock muffler feel weird because I can actually listen to my music over the sound of the exhaust now lol. I plan to road trip from Florida to DC on Christmas week so I'm sure the wife will appreciate no drone on the 15 hour trip.

Future mods will be injectors so I can get a tune for E85. Once the sychros get replaced in my transmission, I'll look into doing turbo since my tuner is always pushing me every time I go visit, lol.