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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up a 2003 type s I am going to be using the car as a asphalt short circle track car I t has to remain completely stock. So when I bought the car the owner said that cylinder 1 had no compression (0 psi… never hear of that happening) so he started to tear it down and stopped so I’m debating on whether to just rebuild the top end or the whole motor. Which would be best? Also if I rebuild the whole motor what internals are most reliable… I will most likely be running it at a high rpm on the straightaways
 

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are you saying the class racing only has rules on the chassis & suspension - or the rules of stock only applies to the engine as well? Please post a list of the rules so we know how to help you better, we need to know what direction this is going with more information

How far did the previous owner get to on the teardown of the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
are you saying the class racing only has rules on the chassis & suspension - or the rules of stock only applies to the engine as well? Please post a list of the rules so we know how to help you better, we need to know what direction this is going with more information

How far did the previous owner get to on the teardown of the engine?
There can’t be any altercations to the motor or suspension it’s a complete stock car class even has to have a stock air cleaner no cold air intake or anything of that sort. I’ll see if I can get the rule sheet. So what I’m trying to find out what would be a good choice of internals, they have to be standard replacement (not necessary oem but meets oem standards).
The previous owner got It pretty much all the way done but then found out you have to pull the motor to take off the timing cover and stopped cause he did have the tools to pull the motor
 

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Nope you cant chip or flash the ecu it has to remain unaltered… that’s kinda why I went with a type s cause it has the most power
thi is what i was afraid of. it will be hard to run a higher compression piston without tuning. since the ecu can adjust up to +/- 10% on fuel and ignition trims you maybe able to run the 11.5 PRC piston with race gas. if you rebuild the block and bore it over (0.5) you will have an engine that feels new and will perform well providing it is broken in correctly.

as far as the head goes, just taking the head apart and cleaning the exhaust ports and valves will create more power and VE making a better performing engine. when I cleaned my exhasut valves on average there was 1.5g of exhaust soot built up on them, which effects how they flow correctly to their designed state. this is something anyone should do if they can especially if they are looking to make the power from changing parts like cams & bolt-ons for that matter.

I guess you have to run the PRB IM which is not a bad intake manifold for maximum mid-range TQ. There are better options but you are stuck there by the rules. As far as factory intake air boxes, ugrading to a Mugen or Spoon filter would be best or run no filter. you should make a custom supply duct that feeds the airbox from the front bumper area or headlight removal with a battery relocation. that way the air supply would be able to get to the box easiest. there is a jdm oem flywheel.

as far as the chassis goes, there is weight to lose on the jdm aluminum front bumper, rear aluminum bumper, jdm aluminum mid brace, sunroof, sterio speakers, soundproofing, interior parts, smaller battery, etc.
 
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