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· Registered
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I mostly lurk but have posted a handful of times. I have an 02 Type S and I am glad it is not a 5-6. I have been the second owner since 140kKm/87kmi and it is currently at just over 180Kkm/112Kmi

My current setup is:

-ECU: KproV4 . In case you are wondering about v4. I find the smartphone hondata app w bluetooth is worth it for at least the instant mpg rating let alone the custom live readouts. I don't need an A pillar cluster, I need a bad ass android or apple stereo deck.

-I: Greddy SRI ?? Came with car. I may get one of those new spiffy dual ones but as I live in BC Canada (North of Washington state) I will not go CAI. I like the response.

-TB: Stock TB soon to be bored at I bought a used one of ebay ( it is shipping)and will send the better of the two to be bored to 65mm w 70mm inlet and custom butterfly valve.

-IM: Skunk 2 Pro w supplied IM gasket.

-H: Skunk2 Alpha

-E: Greddy evo 2? Came with car.

-Suspension and tires: Tien H tech springs for the spring rates. OEM aspec shocks because the stock ones were basically done and I wanted to drive the car at close to factory spec. Advan Racing 17" RS 10 spoke rims (Came with car, thank god they are even numbered for balance) w Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225/ZR45's.

-Mishimoto Radiator. I bought it for the lifetime warranty. Since its recent install, at temp, the temp gauge, instead of sitting smack in the middle is usually about 15% lower. I can be more accurate with this if needed but the temp is significantly lower. Mabey 25% counting the halfway mark as 100%.

-Hassport 62a mounts.

Planned parts to be added soon off MFactory Team Factory site:

-MFactory LSD

-Infinitude 9lb flywheel

-Synchrotech master carbon rebuild kit.

Last dyno: During my last dyno I did not have the bored TB, the sk2 IM, the mounts, or the rad and I made 217.5 and 156.5 on a tune where I asked for some off the top for some under the curve and to keep it perfectly reliable.

I am posting because And apologies for the garble. I am tempted to throw in the SK2 drop in cams for the new IM and TB to tide me over as I may go CT supercharger but would rather stay NA. As of now this is what I will likely do as I have a friend with a K20z1 I can give/sell the DIC to.

When I think of labour and tuning cost I keep leaning towards a deck n clay with Sk2 stage 2 and 12.5.1 pistons but am not sure I need rods or why I would or would not. Do I? Benefits for having negatives for not?

$ is a thing, however I am trying to pay to play efficiently but in steps so I may experience and enjoy the gains as they come.

With my setup what gains should I expect by just adding a DIC (any) vs a Sk2 stage 2 cam with 12.5.1 pistons and a valve train? Also by valve train I know I need springs but to I need more than than. I keep reading about how you need to redo the valves themselves. On top of that the stock tach only goes to 9k and I keep thinkig K24 bottom. I end up going in circles. I want to keep it 2L and done want to go FI but am willing to do either.

This is a Daily driver that I also use it for delivery work. I really want 286hp

The 9K tach really miffs my 2.0L hopes. The tuning shop I go to has a K20/24 NA that makes 360whp at 11.5k or something and I am 1 step away from having them start makng suggestions but I wanted to post here first and see what gets suggested.

No brand loyalty here. Just a long time car guy with little time car modding.

· 05 Type S RH Reflash LSD
2,264 Posts
OMGoodness, K20/24 frank that revs to 11.5k? :eek: For real? Is that possible!

Anyways, why exactly 286hp? lol. Idk how to steer you but man, DIC's will be way cheaper than all the work required for the bottom end, which I would assume you should do rods too because you don't want to overstress the OEM ones, especially if you're in there doing the pistons (am I mistaken? it's like a few more bolts, no? plus the parts cost).

All in all I'm partial to the 2L game, but mostly because you can rev it to high heaven. Idk how you can go even above like 8k with a frank. With the K20, you can get above 9k if you do the springs and modify the oil pump and such (like it sounds like they did with the frank, but man that's some fast moving pistons stroking in a 2.4...).

Also, with the DIC's you will still want a tune. They do cost like almost $1000 after all, so you better pay extra for a tune :thumbsup:. You'll probably find a good comparison in the N/A Dyno Plots thread:, like this one:
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