Joined
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7 Posts
Hello,
I mostly lurk but have posted a handful of times. I have an 02 Type S and I am glad it is not a 5-6. I have been the second owner since 140kKm/87kmi and it is currently at just over 180Kkm/112Kmi
My current setup is:
-ECU: KproV4 . In case you are wondering about v4. I find the smartphone hondata app w bluetooth is worth it for at least the instant mpg rating let alone the custom live readouts. I don't need an A pillar cluster, I need a bad ass android or apple stereo deck.
-I: Greddy SRI ?? Came with car. I may get one of those new spiffy dual ones but as I live in BC Canada (North of Washington state) I will not go CAI. I like the response.
-TB: Stock TB soon to be bored at maxbore.com. I bought a used one of ebay ( it is shipping)and will send the better of the two to be bored to 65mm w 70mm inlet and custom butterfly valve.
-IM: Skunk 2 Pro w supplied IM gasket.
-H: Skunk2 Alpha
-E: Greddy evo 2? Came with car.
-Suspension and tires: Tien H tech springs for the spring rates. OEM aspec shocks because the stock ones were basically done and I wanted to drive the car at close to factory spec. Advan Racing 17" RS 10 spoke rims (Came with car, thank god they are even numbered for balance) w Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225/ZR45's.
-Mishimoto Radiator. I bought it for the lifetime warranty. Since its recent install, at temp, the temp gauge, instead of sitting smack in the middle is usually about 15% lower. I can be more accurate with this if needed but the temp is significantly lower. Mabey 25% counting the halfway mark as 100%.
-Hassport 62a mounts.
Planned parts to be added soon off MFactory Team Factory site:
-MFactory LSD
-Infinitude 9lb flywheel
-Synchrotech master carbon rebuild kit.
Last dyno: During my last dyno I did not have the bored TB, the sk2 IM, the mounts, or the rad and I made 217.5 and 156.5 on a tune where I asked for some off the top for some under the curve and to keep it perfectly reliable.
I am posting because And apologies for the garble. I am tempted to throw in the SK2 drop in cams for the new IM and TB to tide me over as I may go CT supercharger but would rather stay NA. As of now this is what I will likely do as I have a friend with a K20z1 I can give/sell the DIC to.
When I think of labour and tuning cost I keep leaning towards a deck n clay with Sk2 stage 2 and 12.5.1 pistons but am not sure I need rods or why I would or would not. Do I? Benefits for having negatives for not?
$ is a thing, however I am trying to pay to play efficiently but in steps so I may experience and enjoy the gains as they come.
With my setup what gains should I expect by just adding a DIC (any) vs a Sk2 stage 2 cam with 12.5.1 pistons and a valve train? Also by valve train I know I need springs but to I need more than than. I keep reading about how you need to redo the valves themselves. On top of that the stock tach only goes to 9k and I keep thinkig K24 bottom. I end up going in circles. I want to keep it 2L and done want to go FI but am willing to do either.
This is a Daily driver that I also use it for delivery work. I really want 286hp
The 9K tach really miffs my 2.0L hopes. The tuning shop I go to has a K20/24 NA that makes 360whp at 11.5k or something and I am 1 step away from having them start makng suggestions but I wanted to post here first and see what gets suggested.
No brand loyalty here. Just a long time car guy with little time car modding.
I mostly lurk but have posted a handful of times. I have an 02 Type S and I am glad it is not a 5-6. I have been the second owner since 140kKm/87kmi and it is currently at just over 180Kkm/112Kmi
My current setup is:
-ECU: KproV4 . In case you are wondering about v4. I find the smartphone hondata app w bluetooth is worth it for at least the instant mpg rating let alone the custom live readouts. I don't need an A pillar cluster, I need a bad ass android or apple stereo deck.
-I: Greddy SRI ?? Came with car. I may get one of those new spiffy dual ones but as I live in BC Canada (North of Washington state) I will not go CAI. I like the response.
-TB: Stock TB soon to be bored at maxbore.com. I bought a used one of ebay ( it is shipping)and will send the better of the two to be bored to 65mm w 70mm inlet and custom butterfly valve.
-IM: Skunk 2 Pro w supplied IM gasket.
-H: Skunk2 Alpha
-E: Greddy evo 2? Came with car.
-Suspension and tires: Tien H tech springs for the spring rates. OEM aspec shocks because the stock ones were basically done and I wanted to drive the car at close to factory spec. Advan Racing 17" RS 10 spoke rims (Came with car, thank god they are even numbered for balance) w Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225/ZR45's.
-Mishimoto Radiator. I bought it for the lifetime warranty. Since its recent install, at temp, the temp gauge, instead of sitting smack in the middle is usually about 15% lower. I can be more accurate with this if needed but the temp is significantly lower. Mabey 25% counting the halfway mark as 100%.
-Hassport 62a mounts.
Planned parts to be added soon off MFactory Team Factory site:
-MFactory LSD
-Infinitude 9lb flywheel
-Synchrotech master carbon rebuild kit.
Last dyno: During my last dyno I did not have the bored TB, the sk2 IM, the mounts, or the rad and I made 217.5 and 156.5 on a tune where I asked for some off the top for some under the curve and to keep it perfectly reliable.
I am posting because And apologies for the garble. I am tempted to throw in the SK2 drop in cams for the new IM and TB to tide me over as I may go CT supercharger but would rather stay NA. As of now this is what I will likely do as I have a friend with a K20z1 I can give/sell the DIC to.
When I think of labour and tuning cost I keep leaning towards a deck n clay with Sk2 stage 2 and 12.5.1 pistons but am not sure I need rods or why I would or would not. Do I? Benefits for having negatives for not?
$ is a thing, however I am trying to pay to play efficiently but in steps so I may experience and enjoy the gains as they come.
With my setup what gains should I expect by just adding a DIC (any) vs a Sk2 stage 2 cam with 12.5.1 pistons and a valve train? Also by valve train I know I need springs but to I need more than than. I keep reading about how you need to redo the valves themselves. On top of that the stock tach only goes to 9k and I keep thinkig K24 bottom. I end up going in circles. I want to keep it 2L and done want to go FI but am willing to do either.
This is a Daily driver that I also use it for delivery work. I really want 286hp
The 9K tach really miffs my 2.0L hopes. The tuning shop I go to has a K20/24 NA that makes 360whp at 11.5k or something and I am 1 step away from having them start makng suggestions but I wanted to post here first and see what gets suggested.
No brand loyalty here. Just a long time car guy with little time car modding.
I'll give it a bit.
