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2003 Acura Rsx type s
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Its all good, so other than drilling that orrifice out a bit I can follow the other d.i.y's? As in no more spiking pressure or fuel starvation from being below a 1/3 tank?
 

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Always on TDY...
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2,169 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,322
Bueller, Bueller, Bueller.... updates anyone?
Sup everyone :coffee:

Been a while and forgot my password lol. Been super busy during this pandemic, but all is well.

Updates... RSX is still down. Confirmed I bent something in the block as I can only turn the motor 1/4 back and forth from the crank. Head looks good and no damage. Currently parked in the garage until I get time.

My first house, I had to evict tenants do to lease breach, sink $ into in to rehab it, and finally have a tenant.

Was a tech support for the teachers for both my kids and tried to keep my sanity teaching. Hats off to teachers, I salute you all.

Lastly, Father's Day weekend, I scoop 3G TL 5at for $500. I couldn't pass on the deal lol.

Hope everyone is safe!
 

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Always on TDY...
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2,169 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,323
Trumpdis3 checking in, wow it's been a few years. .wassup Nats ,you still here!! Who else
Sup dude, long time! Hope all is well.
 

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Past Driver’s Ed
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543 Posts
Its all good, so other than drilling that orrifice out a bit I can follow the other d.i.y's? As in no more spiking pressure or fuel starvation from being below a 1/3 tank?
It was a busy past week for me, but I’m trying to follow through with my info on a return fuel system. I see that today we have quite a few DIY videos on how to install a return fuel system on a RSX. Steps that I feel need a little more clarification are modifications to the fuel pump cage, OEM fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel return jet.
The pump cage pays a critical role in the fuel system. The purpose of the cage is to ensure that the fuel pump pickup stays submerged in fuel during sharp turns and bumps. So if you install a new fuel pump feed line, you need take time to layout the area of the cage that needs to be removed so that the fuel line has a straight pass to the pump’s discharge port. You only want to remove just enough material to allow enough clearance for the fuel line to pass through cage wall. Don’t hack out a big slot like most videos show. I actually drilled a hole for mine. Also, do not drill any extra holes in the cage thinking that they will allow more fuel to the pump. The extra holes will have just the opposite effect.
The OEM fuel pressure regulator becomes obsolete and needs to be removed when utilizing a return fuel line system. The fuel cap OEM fuel discharge port will now be converted into the fuel return line port which you will connect a new hose from that port directly to the fuel return jet. You will also need to plug the old fuel return port that went from the fuel cap to the OEM fuel pressure regulator.
The return fuel jet port is located towards the bottom of the pump cage, between the OEM fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump. The purpose of the return jet is to ensure that there is a supply of fuel at ambient temperature to the pump cage. Using a fuel pump with increase flow/pressure, the return jet’s orifice diameter is too small and will restrict the flow of the fuel returning into the fuel tank. The orifice size needs to be increase to 0.125 inch diameter minimum. Use a sharp drill and take care not to damage the jet. If you elect not to perform this step, you may have issues adjusting the pressure low enough at the external fuel pressure regulator.
The rest of the modification details are covered petty well in the different DIY videos. Make sure that the hose material used inside the fuel tank is rated “fuel submergible”. Use hose clamps at all connections. I’m attaching a hardware list plus some photos on how I routed the fuel lines. You want to protect the fuel lines from heat and road debris damaged. Support fuel lines with hangers about every 10 inches. The fuel line size that I used supports without issues 1000cc injectors, pumping E85 fuel.











 
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