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Discussion Starter #1
Since I bought my 2003 RSX Type-S, I've used a cassette adaptor so I could listen to an iPod... then later an iPhone. Over the past couple of years, the stock head unit would give TAPE ERR message, then eject he adaptor. And then it got worse, until finally, last week, it won't eject at all, and nothing happens when pressing the TAPE button.

Repair.... or Replace?

  1. Has anyone dealt with this specific problem? Any advice?
  2. I've read that replacing the stock Head Unit would be inexpensive. Is that still true?
  3. I've become somewhat enamored of just replacing with an aftermarket head unit, but I'm not interested in spending a lot.
I'm on the very low end of DIY. I can't see replacing the head unit myself.

I'd welcome your advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, I'm not seeing the prices you guys are quoting, and I'd still need to pay someone to do the installation... I got all into the idea of doing more, namely Apple CarPlay. I found a really great deal on a Pioneer AVH-1300NEX.

My follow up question has to do with what I've read elsewhere here: bypassing the Bose Amp.

The folks at Crutchfield show the need for a Line Output Converter, and the guy at reputable car stereo shop is saying I don't even need that! Like, he'd go directly into the amp from the Pioneer.

So which is it?
  1. Bypass the amp, meaning I need ____ ?
  2. Use the Line Output Converter
  3. Go straight from the stereo to the existing amp
I'm all sorts of confused and have not had an aftermarket car stereo installed since about 1997. On a 1993 Integra. Which was a CD player.
 

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Bypassing the amp would power the stock speakers off the aftermarket radio you would lose the oem trunk subwoofer. If you wire the radio directly to the amp it will sound extremely loud at low volume. You could also buy the Metra adapter harness with the rca connectors on it that would keep the vol decent. If you go the Metra harness way you will most likely get a slight hiss at real low vol. This is what I’ve seen from my own experience others may have different insight if you need any help feel free to send me a message it’s not a extremely hard job to do in all honesty.
 

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So, I'm not seeing the prices you guys are quoting, and I'd still need to pay someone to do the installation... I got all into the idea of doing more, namely Apple CarPlay. I found a really great deal on a Pioneer AVH-1300NEX.

My follow up question has to do with what I've read elsewhere here: bypassing the Bose Amp.

The folks at Crutchfield show the need for a Line Output Converter, and the guy at reputable car stereo shop is saying I don't even need that! Like, he'd go directly into the amp from the Pioneer.

So which is it?
  1. Bypass the amp, meaning I need ____ ?
  2. Use the Line Output Converter
  3. Go straight from the stereo to the existing amp
I'm all sorts of confused and have not had an aftermarket car stereo installed since about 1997. On a 1993 Integra. Which was a CD player.
You don't need any of that. Crutchfield is trying to sell you extra crap. Both Metra and Scosche make harnesses that allow you to integrate the factory Bose components, and they're cheap, like $10. Just Google or go on Amazon and search "RSX Metra integration harness" and you'll find it.

Also, can you match colors together? If so, you can install a car stereo yourself. If you buy the harness I mentioned above, you don't have to cut any wires. Just match the colors on the adapter harness to the harness on the stereo and fasten them together however you'd like (crimp caps, solder, whatever). Everything will be plug and play.

Search Club RSX or YouTube for instructions on how to open up the dash and remove the factory radio unit. Kseriesparts.com has an RSX stereo install DIY also in their tech/install section.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You don't need any of that. Crutchfield is trying to sell you extra crap. Both Metra and Scosche make harnesses that allow you to integrate the factory Bose components, and they're cheap, like $10. Just Google or go on Amazon and search "RSX Metra integration harness" and you'll find it.
Thanks. So you are saying I really have no need for the Output Line Converter.

I probably would prefer to have an installer do the work, even though it does look like something I might be able to do myself with those instructions. I can just feel all the ways it could not go quite right and I'd rather pay someone else to do it.

I mean, I've read or thought about the following things that seem a lot more involved than those instructions show:
  • Where does the microphone go?
  • What about the supposed wiring that has to connect to the emergency break?
  • What if there is some sort of buzzing after I'm done?
  • What if the faceplate doesn't fit just right?
  • What if I have an issue putting the emergency button back into the new faceplate?
This isn't meant to be answered, it's just meant to show why I would just as soon pay someone else.
 

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Thanks. So you are saying I really have no need for the Output Line Converter.

I probably would prefer to have an installer do the work, even though it does look like something I might be able to do myself with those instructions. I can just feel all the ways it could not go quite right and I'd rather pay someone else to do it.

I mean, I've read or thought about the following things that seem a lot more involved than those instructions show:
  • Where does the microphone go?
  • What about the supposed wiring that has to connect to the emergency break?
  • What if there is some sort of buzzing after I'm done?
  • What if the faceplate doesn't fit just right?
  • What if I have an issue putting the emergency button back into the new faceplate?
This isn't meant to be answered, it's just meant to show why I would just as soon pay someone else.
I know you said not to answer, but I just wanted to tell you a few things.

The mic doesn't have to go in any one particular spot. I have a Pioneer touch screen myself, and I plan to mount the mic on the headliner. The pioneer mics come with a clip that you can use to do that. If you pop off the plastic on the A-pillar, there's wiring that comes down from the moon roof. You can just wrap the wire around that, and then run it under the dash to the stereo. This guy shows how to do it on an RSX specifically: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2SEhDBRxWg&t=1s

As for the parking brake wiring, most people don't hook that up. You still need to address it or else the stereo won't operate, but don't wire it to the parking brake. It will severely limit the functionality of the unit. Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-ALL-AVH-X-Interface-Receivers/dp/B00A9AQPUU It's a bypass that you wire in to the harness (again, just match the colors) that tricks the stereo in to thinking that the car has the parking brake engaged at all times. With this, the stereo's functionality will not be limited in any way, AND, you don't have to hack in to your car's wiring.

The slight buzzing or hissing with integrating the factory Bose stuff is a risk, but I've never experienced it myself. It's worth a try, in my opinion. The alternative is to spend a whole lot more by paying some to bypass the amp or to install a new amp and woofer.

As for the kit not fitting right and the emergency flashers button giving you trouble...I mean, if you just don't want to do this yourself, then don't, but I had absolutely no issue with either of those things. Just take your time with it. Also, buy Metra brand stuff (the adaptor harness and the faceplate). It's really not any more expensive than the Schosche stuff you can get at Walmart, but the fit and finish on it is perfect. Metra brand is what I use whenever I install a radio (which I've done about 5 times now, no formal training).

Best of luck, whatever route you decide to go.
 

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Thanks. So you are saying I really have no need for the Output Line Converter.

I probably would prefer to have an installer do the work, even though it does look like something I might be able to do myself with those instructions. I can just feel all the ways it could not go quite right and I'd rather pay someone else to do it.

I mean, I've read or thought about the following things that seem a lot more involved than those instructions show:
  • Where does the microphone go?
  • What about the supposed wiring that has to connect to the emergency break?
  • What if there is some sort of buzzing after I'm done?
  • What if the faceplate doesn't fit just right?
  • What if I have an issue putting the emergency button back into the new faceplate?
This isn't meant to be answered, it's just meant to show why I would just as soon pay someone else.
I've done a few stereo installs on my own, no training, just using google, forums, and youtube. I can honestly say this was the EASIEST stereo install I've ever done. I installed a new head unit, ran the wiring for subwoofers and amplifier, and even installed a backup camera for the first time. The head unit itself was the easiest thing ever compared to the rest of the things.
1. The microphone I mounted behind the steereing wheel, right in front of the dash cluster.
2. That will ONLY break if you yank at the stereo when you're bringing it out for the first time. I don't see how anyone could break it, but to each their own.
3. I haven't experienced an buzzing or anything.
4. The faceplate I got fit perfectly, looks OEM, and compliments the new Double Din nicely.
5. The Hazard button is literally held on by 2 screws behind the faceplate. I actually ordered 2 faceplates, and both of them were able to screw the hazard switch on there with no problem. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
 

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2. That will ONLY break if you yank at the stereo when you're bringing it out for the first time. I don't see how anyone could break it, but to each their own.
I'm pretty sure he meant "brake," not "break." He's asking about the stereo having to be spliced in to the parking brake. I recommended that he just buy one of those little $10 buypass kits instead.
 

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I'm pretty sure he meant "brake," not "break." He's asking about the stereo having to be spliced in to the parking brake. I recommended that he just buy one of those little $10 buypass kits instead.
Hahaha, totally missed that. I actually made my own bypass. I bought a cheap 3-4 dollar switch at walmart, connected the parking brake cable to one side, and ran a cable on the other end to a good ground. It will trick the stereo into thinking that you're activating and deactivating the parking brake. Cheap and easy, not hard to do at all.
 

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Hahaha, totally missed that. I actually made my own bypass. I bought a cheap 3-4 dollar switch at walmart, connected the parking brake cable to one side, and ran a cable on the other end to a good ground. It will trick the stereo into thinking that you're activating and deactivating the parking brake. Cheap and easy, not hard to do at all.
Do you actually have to flip the switch with that? I just used one of these things: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-ALL-AVH-X-Interface-Receivers/dp/B00A9AQPUU
 

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Hmm, I honestly hadn't seen of those, but yes, you have to flick the switch if you plan on using anything that requires the parking brake to be on.
Gotcha. Yeah, it was only $10 and it integrated right in to the harness, so the radio thinks the car is in park 100% of the time.

There seems to be a big market for those bypass units because they're all over Amazon and Ebay, and install shops sell them also, so it seems like pretty much everyone is bypassing and the manufacturers don't seem to care. Probably one of those things where they have to heavily restrict the radios for liability but they don't really give a crap what people people do with them out in the wild.
 
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