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The EASY Way
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tein Overhaul Complete -- Pics and AVI Attached!

Happy to report that my first DIY operation -- Tein Flex coilover installation -- only took 16 hours !!!! :crying:

Just wanted to drop a note in response to the many posts about people not going for Tein coilovers because they make noises -- mine haven't made noises at all as of yet. The increase in angle the tie-rods make when connecting to the struts seem to be "within spec" -- the rod joints seem to be designed to allow the angle change. My guess is the people that are having sound problems haven't torque-locked their spring seat or lower strut lock rings sufficiently. If you have a torque wrench supporting between 40 and 150 lbs of ft you should be ok.

Initial impression is that these bad boys feel great. Ride is definitely firmer than stock (even when setting the front/rear dampning levels to 2/4 softness) yet still very comfortable (the non-car-groupie girlfriend agrees). Body roll is now reduced to lateral movement -- minimal leaning (U turns never felt so good). Pillowballs transmit a very nice feel of road conditions. Steering response is quicker. And, of course, the drop looks sweet (Tein's reference height isn't as low as the kickass drop of the other CRSX BOM Tein owner's, but still looks damn sexy to me :D).

UPDATED

Tein Flex - EDFC - SPC Rear Camber Kit. Special thanks to c0mp|ex to pointing me to the right thread to get my wires through the firewall! The passenger-side grommet is frickin' huge -- with a straightened coat hanger wire i was able to push through both power plugs easy.




And last but definitely not least -- the tool that made finding the correct power supplies oh-so-easy....


(Automotive Test Light -- $4.99 at Sears)

:eek:
And here's a demo of how the EDFC unit works -- turn up your sound! The best thing I love about this gadget is that dampening adjustments are made fast, as you can see from the vid. I've made adjustments at stop lights and even while driving (probably not the best thing for the motors).

EDFC Control Unit Demo
 

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997 C4S
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Dang 16 hour install :eek: Your car is looking nice though. I have my Tein flex coilovers set at 8 both front and back and it's pretty darn stiff - my car bounces back and forth on the freeway. Too bad I didn't get EDFC though... now I gotta dig up the carpetting just to adjust the rear.
 

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The EASY Way
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
LOL -- nah, the actual work time was probably around 10. :D Since this was my first time taking apart my car, I wanted to take things slow and get a feel for exactly what I was doing. I also had to take time out to feed my helper and to go buy a pullman tie-rod remover because my tuning fork ball joint remover sucked ass (and I didn't want to bang the tie-rod/strut with a hammer to get the bolt out).

The first front and rear wheel would take like 3-4 hours because of some tight bolt that wouldn't come out or joint that wouldn't move (rotor assembly), but then the second wheel on each side would take avg 30 mins. Good learning experience definitely. Wiring the EDFC was very quick after I used the test light to find the right power sources -- running the rear wires took about an hour which included cutting away some of the plastic along the underside of my left doorsill to fit the wires. Running the front wires surprisingly took 30 minutes because the passenger side grommet hole was big enough to not require drilling/cutting to fit my power plugs.

The Helms Service Manual made the whole job very very very easy...

:beerchug:
 

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997 C4S
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Type_Raver said:
Sick!

Ive been looking into this recently as well. So does the EDFC control height & Damper settings or just damper?
Only controls the damper settings... I wish it could adjust the ride height *hint hint Tein*
 

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The EASY Way
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Abve All Thngs said:
Only controls the damper settings... I wish it could adjust the ride height *hint hint Tein*
:iamwiths:

Agree! And it sucks that it looks like i have to completely remove the front struts in order to adjust the height -- would the strut part that connects to the tie-rod hit the frame if I just tried to swivel the strut after unbolting the rotor assembly and tie-rod?
 

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BIG POPPA®
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BOM_RSX-S_HB said:
:iamwiths:

Agree! And it sucks that it looks like i have to completely remove the front struts in order to adjust the height -- would the strut part that connects to the tie-rod hit the frame if I just tried to swivel the strut after unbolting the rotor assembly and tie-rod?
Remove the struts to adjust height? Really.

On the SS you just remove the wheel and adjust. I can do each wheel in less than 5 minutes.......takes me longer to wash my hands afterwards.... :laughing:
 

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997 C4S
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BOM_RSX-S_HB said:
...And it sucks that it looks like i have to completely remove the front struts in order to adjust the height...
To adjust the Tein flex coilovers, all you have to do is prop the car up on jackstands and remove the wheels. Each coilover has 3 discs that allow you to compress/decompress the spring. This results in the change of your car's ride height. Your kit should've came with 2 hook-like tools that allow you to twist those discs. You don't need to touch the ball joint or anything when changing your ride height. :) hope that helps
 

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The EASY Way
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Discussion Starter #13
Abve All Thngs said:
To adjust the Tein flex coilovers, all you have to do is prop the car up on jackstands and remove the wheels. Each coilover has 3 discs that allow you to compress/decompress the spring. This results in the change of your car's ride height. Your kit should've came with 2 hook-like tools that allow you to twist those discs. You don't need to touch the ball joint or anything when changing your ride height. :) hope that helps
I thought the spring seat lock adjusted spring-preload and the bottom ring adjusted dampner height. My thinking must be wrong since the SS only has a spring seat lock and it is height-adjustable. Can someone help me out? What's the difference between adjusting the spring seat lock and the lower strut height lock?
 

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BIG POPPA®
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BOM_RSX-S_HB said:
I thought the spring seat lock adjusted spring-preload and the bottom ring adjusted dampner height. My thinking must be wrong since the SS only has a spring seat lock and it is height-adjustable. Can someone help me out? What's the difference between adjusting the spring seat lock and the lower strut height lock?
The spring seat lock shouldn't effect preload. The spring will still support the weight of the car, so raising it may increase preload for a bit, but should raise out of the body.

So for your adjustment, it should be a 2-step process instead of a single step like the SSP.

You need to raise or lower using the spring perch, and make an opposite adjustment for the bottom lock to make up for any stroke you affected.

http://www.tein.com/ti/inst/6a28u.pdf
 

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Nice job on the tein install looks good. I noticed u have a camber kit on the rear. what camber kit is that? and did u install and set/adjust it yourself?

info would really be helpfull cuz im looking to purchase a kit soon my car has terrible neg- camber
 

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The EASY Way
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Discussion Starter #19
toolR said:
Nice job on the tein install looks good. I noticed u have a camber kit on the rear. what camber kit is that? and did u install and set/adjust it yourself?

info would really be helpfull cuz im looking to purchase a kit soon my car has terrible neg- camber
Thanks.

SPC Rear Camber Kit -- recommended over Ingalls by some CRSX-ers. Very sturdy piece; check out their nifty site: SPC Performance

I installed and adjusted the camber myself. Instructions are very easy and adjustment is simple as well. I've been eyeballin' it for now -- plan on busting out the ol' string-with-weight trick to align the wheel parallel to the line made by the hanging string. When i'm ready to track I'll probably take the car in for a professional alignment.

:beerchug:
 
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