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Reppin' KY
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885 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Most of you have seen my threads tracking my modifications and my tinkering with them in my quest to turn the open differential monster that the RSX is into an STS car.

I've done a fat RSB, a small FSB, a fat FSB, coilovers, and a ton of other different setups with what I've got. Over the thousands I've spent on this car, my best modification cost me about $45 plus a $70 alignment. Last week I bought some crash bolts for my car. I got 2 sets and loaded them up in the front. At that same time, I also swapped my camber plates to give me more caster and raised the car in the rear to reduce the amount of negative camber.

The car went from about -0.7 deg of front camber to -2.3 degrees on both sides. My caster went from 1.7 degrees to 2.6 and 2.9 degrees. While I expected a bit more for each setting, we unfortunately ran out of tie rod adjustment. Rear camber was reduced by about half a degree to around -2.1 degrees. I still feel that I have too much rear camber, but at this point, I'm starting to believe that I need it! The car rotates marvelously, even with a 25.4 mm FSB on it. I've never been able to plant power out of turns, but now I can.

I must recommend this to all. If you have front camber plates, swap them from driver's side to passenger's side and vice versa. It works and the added caster is amazing. If you aren't running crash bolts in the front, do it! The added camber is also amazing.

This cheap set of mods may have quieted my search for the elusive 89 Civic Si. I think this car has much more in it, especially with some better tires than the RS2s that I'm running. I'm not sure if I'll be able to chase down the EF Civic Si's, but I'm positive that I can get close.

Next modification will hopefully be either a set of RE01Rs or a set of front seats.
 

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Yup, after tires & wheels, camber is the single biggest grip improvement. The difference between -.7 and -2 is large for a mac strut, you'll see even more if you go towards 3 but not as much of an improvement IME.

Oh yeah, if your're running kooks, they like a lot more than 3; seems like the stiffer st tires are happy in the 2-3ish range. Wear them out and get something stiffer ;)
 

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Slow in Fast out
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2,884 Posts
-.7 front to -2.3? thats a big step up. Your tires are thanking you now, I'm guessing you did alot of plowing with your old setup. How much you need is going to depend on spring resistance, anti-roll bars, tires, ride height (roll center), dampers, etc. So tune away!!


BTW, Bridgestone has a $100 off discount for SCCA members.
 

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Reppin' KY
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885 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is the most I can get on the current setup. Things I'm thinking about down the road include Kmac plates and a Koni/GC setup. Hopefully I would see more camber and caster with those without killing my tie rod adjustment.
 

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2 trunks = twice the fun!
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1,020 Posts
-2.1 in the rear on street tires??!?

Get a camber kit ASAP and dial that bitch back to around -1.5.

-Dan!!
 

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Reppin' KY
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885 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I adjusted the ride height backwards for what I wanted. One side is -1.8 degrees and the other is -2.3 degrees. While I do plan to eventually order a camber kit for the rear, I don't feel like giving old Scotty Bourne another $70 to align the car when my camber adjustments screw up my rear toe.
 

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EM2 Member
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I agree with Dan... dial out the rear camber to around -1.25. I doubt you'll want to (or be able to) raise the rear high enough to get those numbers without severely affecting your rake.
 

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DC5 Krew
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i would have to say thew best mod i evr did was bc coilovers
 

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This is the most I can get on the current setup. Things I'm thinking about down the road include Kmac plates and a Koni/GC setup. Hopefully I would see more camber and caster with those without killing my tie rod adjustment.
with k-mac plates set all the way back and moving the subframe as forward as posible, i got 3.20(L) and 2.87(R) for caster

right now, i have my FSB disconnected, and i can power out of corner really early in the turn, but i think i might put it back on because the car feels reeally weird
 

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Reppin' KY
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885 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
with k-mac plates set all the way back and moving the subframe as forward as posible, i got 3.20(L) and 2.87(R) for caster

right now, i have my FSB disconnected, and i can power out of corner really early in the turn, but i think i might put it back on because the car feels reeally weird
Yes, we have very small courses in my home region so powering out isn't as important to me as turning in usually. Thus, I've put the hefty bar back on the front. I have thought about just putting the stock FSB back on to see how it feels with the new setup.
 

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2 trunks = twice the fun!
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1,020 Posts
Well, I adjusted the ride height backwards for what I wanted. One side is -1.8 degrees and the other is -2.3 degrees. While I do plan to eventually order a camber kit for the rear, I don't feel like giving old Scotty Bourne another $70 to align the car when my camber adjustments screw up my rear toe.
Adjusting your ride height to adjust your camber is a band-aid at best. Adjusting your ride height has a bigger effect on your roll-center that it EVER will on your camber. Depending on what you did with the height, you may have fucked yourself worse by raising your roll centers than you ever did by having excessive camber.

Ingalls rear camber kit. $120 shipped. Do it.
http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/ING-38950PR-p-ARSXSCKR.html

What are your toe settings? Toe is very important for turn-in.

-Dan
 

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Reppin' KY
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885 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I toed out a bit in the rear. 1/8 degree toe out on each side. No toe in the front because we ran out of tie rod adjustment.
 

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Yes, we have very small courses in my home region so powering out isn't as important to me as turning in usually. Thus, I've put the hefty bar back on the front. I have thought about just putting the stock FSB back on to see how it feels with the new setup.
this is a though one... slow tight courses... I would suggest trying no front bar and watch your times after two events experience with it. if they drop then you are better without the bar. leave the bar off and increase spring rate if you can just a little more.

not too much or you will cause understeer and over load the front street tires.
 

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Reppin' KY
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885 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Reverse your tie rods by grinding the same conical shape on the other side as close as possible. Do not drill straight thru. and bolt right on. easy and safe.

you'll get your toe adjustability back and fix the arms angle. steering will get a lot better too.
Can't do that in STS. You always suggest mods I can't do in STS.
 
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