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Mountain Run?
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok I brought this over from Ephatch. I did the install today though on my friends base dc5. Rsxy34 is his name on here.

Ive seen ESMM insert install guides and they were helpful but they had no pix so I made one with pictures for the ep3 and the dc5 enjoy people.

This is a how-to for installing energy suspension motor mounts.

Let me just say this. The Subframe bolts, motor mount bolts, and I believe the spring bolts on the exhaust should be replaced when removed. Most people dont do this and have had no problems but its just something to think about.

Ok, this install is not hard by any means it just takes time and some basic knowledge. I did this on a base model 5 spd rsx which is identical to the ep. There are alot of different methods for this install but I choose to drop the subframe by removing the two bolts either in the front or the rear depending on the mount.

In the ESMM kit you get 4 polyurethane inserts and a sticker. You are not replacing motor mounts, you are only inserting the ESMM on top of the stock mounts. Also, you are only using the polyurethane mounts for the front engine mount and the rear engine mount. 2 per mount. It will be clearer later on.

You can't start a job without the right tools (ex. no crescent wrenches).

Here is a pic of the tools needed.

From left to right: 1/2 inch drive torque wrench, 17mm combo wrench, 1/2 inch breaker bar, 1/2 inch ratchet, 3/8 inch ratchet, ESMM, 1/2 inch extension, 1/2 - 3/8 inch adapter, 14mm socket, 12mm socket, 12mm deep socket, 3/8 inch extension, 17mm socket, thread locker/lock tite RED, mallet.

This is very important. You need a jack with a good range of height. The car needs to be high enough that you can work comfortably underneath it. Also the jack stands should be the appropriate rating and should always be used while working under the car. A jack is only for lifting a car not holding it. Don't risk your life, if you dont have jackstands go by some. Always use chocks or blocks of wood to place behind the rear tires for an extra safety precaution. Also set the handbrake.

Ok, start by parking the car setting the handbrake, and placing chocks or wood behind the tires. Jack the car up to a comfortable height (I maxed out my jack) and secure it with jackstands. The lifting point for the dc5 and the ep3 is right in the center of the subframe. There is a large black plastic arrow in the spash shield pointing towards it. Here is a picture.


Make sure the car is secure before you get underneath it. Before starting the install you need to get familiar with the underside of the car. Locate the motor mounts, the subframe, the downpipe from the header and the sway bar. Here are some pictures.

This is the front motor mount. Almost in the center of the front part of the car. It is very close to where you jacked the car up. Get underneath the car and look straight up right by the lift point.

Here is the rear motor mount which is located right where the header meets up with the cat downpipe. You cannont see it from looking straight up. Get at an angle right by the cat and you will see it.

Ok, you should see both mounts now you need to locate the subframe bolts. There are 6 but you will only loosen and use 4 to aid you in the install. Four of the bolts are located in the front of the car and two are located in the rear part of the subframe. These bolts should be torqed to 76 foot pounds.

Rear right side. 17mm very long bolt.
 

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Mountain Run?
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Rear left 17mm very long bolt. These are just some pix to let you know what you are loosening for future reference later on.


The downpipe off the header and the front sway bar should be obvious.


Ok time to start the install.

Start by removing the splash shield. This will make it easier to reach the front mount. This is what it looks like without the splash shield. Excuse my custom cold air intake and the wires and water lines running underneath the car.


Ok the splash shield is off and you've located the front motor mount. Time to drop the subframe low enough to get the inserts in. Start by loosening the rear subframe bolts out about 3/4 the way out with a 1/2 inch breaker bar 1/2 extension and 17mm socket.



Ok after the rear bolts are loose move back towards the front of the car and completely loosen and remove the bolt that goes right throught the rubber mount. Use a 1/2 inch breaker bar or 1/2 inch ratchet with a 17mm socket depending on how tight the bolt is and how strong you are.



This is what the bolt and nut look like when it is completely removed from the mount.


Here is the mount without the bolt and nut.



Now, we are ready to drop the subframe down and pop the mounts in. Ok to drop the subframe down completely remove the front two subframe bolts. These are the ones that need to be torqued to 76 foot pounds by the way.
 

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Mountain Run?
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Be careful the subframe will drop a good amount and it scared my friend and I. Ok the motor mount should be in the same place on the engine but the subframe will be out of your way. Now you can pop in the ESMM inserts. Make sure to lube them up real good with wd40 and pop them in. O, and if the subframe isnt low enough then the rear mounts arent out far enough.

Ok that wasnt too hard right. Now you need to get the subframe over the new inserts. In order to do this you need to use your hands or the jack to push the subframe up. Also you can use a screwdriver to pry and move the subframe around.


When the mount is aligned with the subframe holes insert the bolt and nut that was previously on there. VERY IMPORTANT. Make sure you use thread locker or lock tite on the threads and the nut. Put the bolt through and tighten the nut down to 47 foot pounds. Use the 17mm combo wrench to hold one side while you tighten the other.

Ok the front mount is done. Lets move onto the rear k. Ok put the front subframe bolts about 1/4 the way in. The rear mount seems to be a little more involved. What you need to do first is completely unbolt the sway bar bushings. All four of them. They are 14mm bolts and you can use your 3/8 inch ratchet, extension, and 14mm socket to get them off.
 

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Mountain Run?
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Ok you can just let the sway bar hang for now. Next get to that header/cat downpipe. Completely remove the spring bolts on the downpipe to allow some much needed movement. They are 12mm so a deep socket or a regular one can be used with a prettyl long extension and 3/8 inch drive ratchet. CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION the first O2 sensor, the mid-wideband sensor on our car has hardly any slack. Make sure you pull it off of the little clip that is holding it to get a little more slack. Dont mess this up.


Ok with all this stuff out of the way you can start at the rear mount. Find the rear mount again and get your 17mm socket on that bolt sticking out on the right side. Take it completely out. It will be very close to the downpipe but it is very possible to do.

Ok so you've got that bolt out good job. Now you need to drop the subframe once more just like you did before. This time you need to remove the rear subframe bolts completely and it should come down enought to clear the mount. If it does not pull on it or loosen the front mount a little more. Be careful people. With the mount exposed wd40 up the inserts and insert them into the stock rubber mounts.
 
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Mountain Run?
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
You are almost done. Now lets get that subframe up. Again you can use a screwdriver to pry it back and forth to align the mount with the subframe holes. Use the jack to lift it up and you'll be fine.


After it is aligned slide in the bolt with the LOCKTITE on it. Tighten this bolt to about 47 foot pounds.

Ok you are done with installing the inserts. Reatach the sway bar bushings and also the exhaust downpipe. Now you need to tighten all the subframe bolts that you loosened to 76 foot pounds. Make sure you tighten them at least three time to 76 foot pounds.

Raise the car up to clear the jack stands, pull them out, and lower that beast to the floor. Start the car, enjoy the vibration and go tear up them tires.

REMEMBER TO CHECK ALL BOLTS IN ABOUT A COUPLE DAYS TO ENSURE THAT THEY ARE TIGHT. THIS GUIDE WAS MADE BY ME, CARBON FIBER DESIRE. I am not a professional and neither are my friends but anybody can do this, ok fellow ephatchers. This is hopefully the thread to end all the "how do we install esmm inserts".

Wow I can't believe I had to post this in 5 separate posts wtf crsx lol.

Enjoy guyz and ask me any questions if you've got em. PEACE !!!
 

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Hey man. . .great DIY. I have one note of caution however. I don't think using WD40 as a lube is a good idea. I seem to recall reading that as a petroleum product, it will eat rubber over time and it may not be a good idea to get it on your stock motor mounts. Anyone can call bullshit on this. . .I'll try to google it later. In the meantime, maybe a silicon based lube would be more applicable.
 

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Mountain Run?
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Discussion Starter #7
Hmmm idk I used wd40 cuz when a local shop did it on my car thats wut they used. If I had it I would use the white silicon lube the Energy Suspension uses on their bushings but they didnt supply it. Im pretty sure the inserts are resistant to wd40 though.

Someone look this up im goin to bed lol.
 

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임다니엘
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Good install guide. :thumbsup:
 

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임다니엘
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AcsRcool said:
Hey man. . .great DIY. I have one note of caution however. I don't think using WD40 as a lube is a good idea. I seem to recall reading that as a petroleum product, it will eat rubber over time and it may not be a good idea to get it on your stock motor mounts. Anyone can call bullshit on this. . .I'll try to google it later. In the meantime, maybe a silicon based lube would be more applicable.

According to the WD-40 website, it is safe for metal, rubber, wood, and plastic. However, polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastics should be avoided. http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html

The Energy Suspension Engine Mount Bushings, sold at clubrsx, utilizes a polyurethane construction. It appears that WD-40 is safe to use with the esmm's and stock motor mounts. I understand that is debatable issue. In which case, an alternative would be to use a silicone spray product. http://www.clean4less.com/3INONE-Professional-Silicone-Spray.WDC10141.3774.1.htm
 
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made of particles
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excellent write up. + 1 for joo. when i did mine, i didnt drop the subframe (which in retrospect would have made it a shitload easier to fit the front mount back in - i fought with that bish for an hour, got it stuck up in the fan, and spent another hour unstucking it and putting it back right), didnt undo the swaybar, and i only unbolted the cat from the manifold - didnt take it off the rubber hangar or have to undo the o2 sensor. but then again it took me 8 hours (i did it in the middle of winter tho, had to take frequent warm up breaks...). so yeah, just saying it can be done without unbolting the aforementioned items, it just prolly takes a hell of a lot longer.
 

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Walking the fine line
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Even though I have a damper and probably won't ever bother with inserts - that was a great review.

+1

WOW
 

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couple things to mention about this write-up.

1: Wd-40 is not good to use for these mounts... not because it'll eat away the rubber or anythign, but because applying wd-40 will only make installing them easier... it will NOT prevent the mounts from potentially making any squeaking noises once installed... for this, you should use any type of grease, not oil.

2: Article failed to mention that when you remove your subframe bolts, you are supposed to replace them, because they stretch. In addition, using loctite on these bolts is not necessary, and can only screw up the torque readings.

3: The exhaust spring bolts are also, and especially supposed to be replaced. If you are not replacing them, it is highly recommended that you spray down the bolts w/ wd-40 b4 reinstallation. This way the rusted threads won't strip right off when you are torquing shit back down, which can happen very easily. Also, since this article mentions torque specs, i believe these bolts get 16 ft/lbs, and need to be torqued down in an alternate pattern. So give one bolts 2 cranks, or so, then do the next, then back to the other one, etc.

4: Not completely necessary, but since you are unbolting your subframe, it is also recommended that you get a front end alignment after the install is all done, otherwise your alignment will not be the same after the install


All these things make this method of installing the mounts, not so good. Have i ever installed ESMM's? no. But it's just some common sense i thought i'd throw in there.
 

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Mountain Run?
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Discussion Starter #15
FullEffect256 said:
couple things to mention about this write-up.

1: Wd-40 is not good to use for these mounts... not because it'll eat away the rubber or anythign, but because applying wd-40 will only make installing them easier... it will NOT prevent the mounts from potentially making any squeaking noises once installed... for this, you should use any type of grease, not oil.

2: Article failed to mention that when you remove your subframe bolts, you are supposed to replace them, because they stretch. In addition, using loctite on these bolts is not necessary, and can only screw up the torque readings.

3: The exhaust spring bolts are also, and especially supposed to be replaced. If you are not replacing them, it is highly recommended that you spray down the bolts w/ wd-40 b4 reinstallation. This way the rusted threads won't strip right off when you are torquing shit back down, which can happen very easily. Also, since this article mentions torque specs, i believe these bolts get 16 ft/lbs, and need to be torqued down in an alternate pattern. So give one bolts 2 cranks, or so, then do the next, then back to the other one, etc.

4: Not completely necessary, but since you are unbolting your subframe, it is also recommended that you get a front end alignment after the install is all done, otherwise your alignment will not be the same after the install


All these things make this method of installing the mounts, not so good. Have i ever installed ESMM's? no. But it's just some common sense i thought i'd throw in there.

1. I havent had any squeaking so far.
2. I did not use lock tite on the subframe bolts, only the motor mount bolts.
3. Yes I know the exhaust spring bolts as well as the subframe bolts and the motor mount bolts are supposed to be replaced. I have the shop manuals. Thank you I will add this to the top of the guide.
4. True it is but the subframe was not low enough to cause any problems with the alignment but of couse it will be a little off right.
 

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Mountain Run?
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Discussion Starter #17
Thanx for all the rep guys. This is a great mod and the vibration is so little in comparison to what you get. ESMM are only 18 bux at inlinefour.com anyways so go get some and take a little time to install them.

If you have any questions just pm me or post up.
 
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floats like paper
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Great write up! If I had this while I installed my ESMMs, I probably would've finished like an hour earlier! :D
 
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