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997 C4S
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Several of us are employed within the automotive industry, so I thought it'd be nice to network and share some "tricks of the trade." As automotive professionals, we're introduced to revolutionary new tools and techniques every day, so I'm willing to bet that our fellow forum members can learn from us as well :)

We've all been in this position before: There's an obscure bolt that needs to be fastened, but it sits at an extremely ridiculous angle. Using a conventional socket, you attempt to install said fastener, but gravity prevails. The bolt has now fallen into the black abyss of the modern engine compartment. If you're lucky enough to find the bolt, what will you do next? A) do the same thing twice?, B) spend $300 on magnetized sockets?, C) have someone else deal with it?

Well here's a free solution:



Using a small piece of tissue paper (or paper towel), you can wedge the fastener within the socket. This prevents the nut/bolt from falling out, even when the ratchet is fully inverted. You can also use this technique when removing fluid drain bolts. We've all gone "fishing" for drain bolts before, so please feel free to utilize this technique the next time around. The last thing that anyone needs, is to be wrist-high in extremely hot carcinogenic fluids.
 

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Hammer......every ford technician should need at least 15 different sizes. fixes everything......hehehe



but umm ratcheting closed end wrenches! i LOVE these to death! also if they were a flexhead ratcheting wrenches.......ooouuuuhh.
 

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日本に住んで&#
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anyone have a technique that would work for getting that darn nut in the back that goes on the rear struts? Nothing I have quite fits in their.
 

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997 C4S
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11,065 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
anyone have a technique that would work for getting that darn nut in the back that goes on the rear struts? Nothing I have quite fits in their.
You can bend or remove the plastic panels covering the C-pillars, to reach the nuts straight-on (using an extension). The reason why this is preferable is because you CANNOT use a universal joint when torquing a fastener.



Since we're on the topic of hard-to-reach areas, you're working too hard if you don't own some flexible extensions:

 

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You can bend or remove the plastic panels covering the C-pillars, to reach the nuts straight-on (using an extension). The reason why this is preferable is because you CANNOT use a universal joint when torquing a fastener.



Since we're on the topic of hard-to-reach areas, you're working too hard if you don't own some flexible extensions:

Omg. I didnt know they made flexible extension. Do they work out good ???
 

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997 C4S
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11,065 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Omg. I didnt know they made flexible extension. Do they work out good ???
If you're constantly working in tighter areas (ie. under the dash), they're worth their weight in gold. God knows that some screws, nuts, and bolts are impossible to access even with a universal joint.

Keep in mind that it's only to be used for low torque fasteners, such as distributor cap bolts, or panel screws, etc. Snap-On only offers a 1/4" drive flexible extension, but Matco does sell a 3/8" drive version. Depending on the application however, you may prefer the conventional flexible driver instead:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=931&group_ID=19799&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

If you don't already own a ratcheting driver, here's a kit I would recommend:

http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/screwdrivers_nutdrivers/ratcheting/shafts_bits_and_adapters/setdetails.jsp?part=8940
 

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日本に住んで&#
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803 Posts
You can bend or remove the plastic panels covering the C-pillars, to reach the nuts straight-on (using an extension). The reason why this is preferable is because you CANNOT use a universal joint when torquing a fastener.



Since we're on the topic of hard-to-reach areas, you're working too hard if you don't own some flexible extensions:

I have a universal joint, but nothing like the flexible one in your post. That thing looks amazing! I ended up using a wrench a just hand tightened it with some decent force.
 

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Since a handful of us are within the automotive industry, I thought it'd be nice if we could share some tools and techniques with our fellow forum members. As professionals, we're introduced to revolutionary new tools and techniques everyday, so I'm sure we can all learn from each other as well :)

We've all been in this position before: There's an obscure bolt that needs to be fastened, but it sits at an extremely ridiculous angle. Using a conventional socket, you attempt to install said fastener, but gravity prevails. The bolt has now fallen into the black abyss of the modern engine compartment. If you're lucky enough to find the bolt, what will you do next? A) try again?, B) spend $300 on magnetized sockets?, C) have someone else deal with it?

Well here's a free solution:



Using a small piece of tissue paper (or paper towel), you can wedge the bolt within the socket. This prevents the fastener from falling out, even when the ratchet is fully inverted. You can also use this technique when removing fluid drain bolts. Why drop the bolt into an oily mess, when you can retain it with a small piece of tissue?
usually i just use tape such as electrical tape.
 

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I got one from an odd source... Normally I wouldnt listen to a redneck, but an old timer once told me, if you ever have a bolt you cant loosen, just heat it slightly, and put a candle on it. Capillary action pulls the wax in between the threads and it will litterally just spin out. Pb blaster, aero kroil, wd, whatever cant hold a candle, to this method.... yes the pun was intended... :) Has saved many a busted knuckle and bolt, especially on some older vehicles that have seen salt corrosion. Like on lower control arm bolts, spring shackle bolts, etc...
 

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Hammer......every ford technician should need at least 15 different sizes. fixes everything......hehehe



but umm ratcheting closed end wrenches! i LOVE these to death! also if they were a flexhead ratcheting wrenches.......ooouuuuhh.
I know I would be completely lost without my BFH tool ;)
 

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I got one from an odd source... Normally I wouldnt listen to a redneck, but an old timer once told me, if you ever have a bolt you cant loosen, just heat it slightly, and put a candle on it. Capillary action pulls the wax in between the threads and it will litterally just spin out. Pb blaster, aero kroil, wd, whatever cant hold a candle, to this method.... yes the pun was intended... :) Has saved many a busted knuckle and bolt, especially on some older vehicles that have seen salt corrosion. Like on lower control arm bolts, spring shackle bolts, etc...
That's very interesting. I'm going to have to try that some time
 
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