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Well, finally got my car. Turns out it's a POS that I paid way too much for, but the body and interior are in amazing shape, so I guess that's all that matters. It is a 22 year old Honda, so I shouldn't expect much from it. Luckily, all the shit that makes it a POS can be fixed by throwing money and/or time at it, and isn't that big of a deal. Typical neglected Japanese owned car. I don't understand why people pay shit tons of money for these 25 year old Japanese cars. The Japanese don't keep up with maintenance at all. My windows take days to go up and down because the tracks are drier than the Sahara. The doors need some grease cause the hinges don't want to move. Most of my issues are just small ones that a can of spray grease and some time will easily remedy. The big issue is that it's an ABS car and some retard put a non ABS front right hub on it. Guess this will just motivate me to remove the ABS sooner than later because I am getting tired of seeing the ABS light.
 

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Fat Free
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hows the engine and suspension? cause in my book the window tracks and hinges aren't exactly big issues... pretty much nobody maintains those till it becomes an issue, not just japanese...

I also bought a new car :D
pic from sale ad, its on dollies cause it doesn't start. the guy I bought it from said he's started it twice, but it wouldn't start when I tried. the starter did click though (only once)... so an explanation could be that the engine is seized so that the starter can't turn it over anymore... I'm gonna get into it once I move into my new place next month. the two times it did start the guy said the engine was making a weird noise... so the plan is to swap in a 2.5 and all my mods over to this. it also has some flood damage...

worst case scenario is I'll swap over the black top and interior to my current car and my brown stuff to this one and try to sell it again for what I paid for it


https://photos.app.goo.gl/u4Rpt128ePAH7EBG3 <--- if pic doesn't show up
 

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Fat Free
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does anyone know the spring diameter and lengths for Fortune Auto coilovers for the RSX? I wanna put softer springs on the RSX I sold to my sister since she doesn't track it and I don't wanna buy through FA cause I can prolly find it cheaper somewhere else...
 

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No clue. What springs are on them?

As far as the Integra goes. I haven't been popping mad VTAK yo cause the motor mounts are fucked (makes a thunk every time I let off the gas), and I'd rather not put added stress on them. Plus the brake pads and tires on this car are absolute garbage. I've already ordered HP+, and I'll order new tires, rotors, and lines next month. Engine runs fine though, and doesn't seem to smoke. A/C works great. As far as the suspension goes, it'll be getting the 5 lug from my EK9 when I can get around to removing the ABS, so I'm not too worried about the suspension. The Teins on it are garbage, but they aint back breaking, so they can stay. Especially as I am in no rush to spend money on this car.

Future plans are:
Truechoice Stage 4 Konis for EK Civic
PCI bushings, arms, and links
Swap over as much of the EK9 suspension and hubs as I can
Debating on if I want to experiment with installing the EK9 crossmember as it would allow me to use the better designed EK9 front LCAs, but I am wondering if it will affect the positioning of the engine.
Rebuild the EK9 trans and put a Cusco MZ 1 way in it. Although I'm not sure if I want to stay 4.4 final and do a gear set, or toss in my 4.7 and stay with the stock gears

My main priority is figuring out this absolutely atrocious driving position. I have the OMP ARS in the car now with a PCI sliding seat rail. Seat is as low as it can go and my knees still won't clear the column. Honda even knew their design sucked ass because they angled the brake and gas pedal slightly to the right to force the driver's legs around the column.
 

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Fat Free
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emailed them, the springs are 60mm ID, 7" front and 5" rear in case anyone is curious

don't ITR's already come with 5 lug? or are you doing the EK 5 lug to get rid of ABS?

whats better about EK front LCA's over the DC's? I thought they were all the same?

I've driven teggy's a few times, I don't remember the seating position ever being an issue... but they were all with stock seat and all 2 door's (maybe 4dr seating position is different?)
 

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JDM 96 spec ITRs are 4x114.3 with GSR brakes. USDM ITRs came with EK9 brakes and spindles. 32mm 5x114.3.

EK9 front LCA is 1 piece and loses the pogo stick endlinks. The most important thing is that on the EK crossmember, the nut that holds the bolt for the LCA is located on the outside. On the EG/DC, the nut is tack welded on the inside of the crossmember and those tack welds always break. In the mean time, I'll probably pull the crossmember off this base model Integra we have in our junkyard, cut it open, reinforce the welds on the nuts, and then weld it shut just so I have a spare should mine break.

The column might be a RHD Integra thing. I never noticed it before in the previous DC2s I've driven but my friend has both a '96 spec DC2 ITR and a 2000 spec DC2 ITR and he is saying the same thing, but he's a lot taller than I am so he's not as affected by it. I can't comment on LHD Hondas as the only LHD Honda I've owned and driven was my 1990 CRX.

On the ABS and EK9 5 lug bit, no. The EK9 rear LCAs are longer and have a higher motion ratio. 12/14 springs on an EK9 gives it a 67% rear bias where as the same rate on a DC2 give it only a 32% rear bias. The brakes are also much larger on the EK9 versus the 96 spec ITR. It would be the equivalent of US ITR brakes versus GSR brakes. I have to get rid of ABS to use my EK9 hubs because my EK9 was a non ABS car. I want to get rid of ABS anyways because the ABS unit in the 96 spec is the old ass module that has the prop valve built into it. If the car were a '98 spec that uses the same ABS module as the DC5, I'd leave it. That was a very well built ABS system. Plus it's about 28 pounds of not needed anyways. When you have a B series, every ounce counts.
 

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Finally figured out what was wrong with the column. Previous owner must have been a midget because he put a spacer in the column. Have a DC1 in the junkyard at work for me to examine, and yeah. The car only has like half an inch of tilt range at most, so I am guessing dude was just too short for that. Fucking used cars man.

Also got all the shit I need to get rid of this ABS. Would like to get a 4040 prop valve though as I don't really want to use the 3040 valve I have. Although the 3040 would probably be more ideal as the 4040 often locks the rears before it locks the fronts.

Still need to dump some money in this car. The distributor took a shit on me probably a day after I made the last post, the motor mounts are still broken, dunno how my tires are still holding air as they have massive cracks in them, the brakes still suck complete dick, and my windshield and roof moldings are done for.
 

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Fat Free
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why are you getting rid of abs again?
 

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I have to get rid of it to use my EK9 hubs cause my EK9 was a non ABS car. Also, it currently doesn't work right now cause it has a bad sensor and a non ABS front right hub for whatever reason.
 

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My left front strut has developed a bunch of play at the bottomto where it is even tugging on my axle, started vibrating like crazy and making all sorts of noise. Only 3 weekends on these new coilovers...
 

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Fat Free
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cause that lower lock nut came loose? or did something else fail? and which coilovers?
 

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Fat Free
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Yea :/ . Sent him an email yesterday morning and tried calling all day but no response.

I am about to turn my DC2 daily into my new track car.
or you know, get coilovers with decent turn around times...
 

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Straight arm coilover handling help!

Hey guys so I purchased some Seeker Coilovers for my time attack rsx. The damping feels great, but even at the softest setting in the front, stiffest in the back, rear type r bar and no front sway on reverse staggered r comps I can barely get the car to rotate. I have a feeling it has something to do with the straight arm design, because I had a lot of issues aligning the car at first. After purchasing moog extended tie rod ends, and lowering the car as far as possible (because the straight arm increases the angle that the tie rods had to the shock so I had to lower it to minimize that angle.) I purchased the steering rack spacer that lifts up where the inner tie rods connect, but I haven't installed it yet. To better explain what kind of problem im having, as soon as the front end begins to grip, the front end just starts bouncing. Its still manageable I guess but it really increases the understeer and ruins my confidence. Any ideas? what do you guys think?
 

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Hey guys so I purchased some Seeker Coilovers for my time attack rsx. The damping feels great, but even at the softest setting in the front, stiffest in the back, rear type r bar and no front sway on reverse staggered r comps I can barely get the car to rotate. I have a feeling it has something to do with the straight arm design, because I had a lot of issues aligning the car at first. After purchasing moog extended tie rod ends, and lowering the car as far as possible (because the straight arm increases the angle that the tie rods had to the shock so I had to lower it to minimize that angle.) I purchased the steering rack spacer that lifts up where the inner tie rods connect, but I haven't installed it yet. To better explain what kind of problem im having, as soon as the front end begins to grip, the front end just starts bouncing. Its still manageable I guess but it really increases the understeer and ruins my confidence. Any ideas? what do you guys think?
DC5 chassis problems :(

What are your spring rates, what size tires, what kind of tires, what are your alignment specs? I do not believe a Type-R rear sway bar is enough for this chassis.
 

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Hey guys so I purchased some Seeker Coilovers for my time attack rsx. The damping feels great, but even at the softest setting in the front, stiffest in the back, rear type r bar and no front sway on reverse staggered r comps I can barely get the car to rotate. I have a feeling it has something to do with the straight arm design, because I had a lot of issues aligning the car at first. After purchasing moog extended tie rod ends, and lowering the car as far as possible (because the straight arm increases the angle that the tie rods had to the shock so I had to lower it to minimize that angle.) I purchased the steering rack spacer that lifts up where the inner tie rods connect, but I haven't installed it yet. To better explain what kind of problem im having, as soon as the front end begins to grip, the front end just starts bouncing. Its still manageable I guess but it really increases the understeer and ruins my confidence. Any ideas? what do you guys think?
I think this is prolly causing your issue. The DC5 geometry is lacking at stock height, lowering it makes it even worse... the front end bouncing suggests that something is binding up, could be caused by over lowering or bad bushings... or both... checking the health of your bushings is pretty easy, raising the car costs you a realignment.. but I think you should raise the car if its as low as it will go, or tucking tire...

ps. #DC5chassisproblems

pss. count downs started b4 Koopa Troopa jumps in defending the DC5 chassis
 
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