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EFI Tuning Professional
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Razathorn said:
Quick update: I loaded this program up on my laptop and took it with me with the intent to do some tuning... well... long story short, now that I have my JRSC, it's just too hard to keep track of the knock sensor, rpms, other cars etc... as the rpms rise like nutty fast now hitting 7.4 pounds of boost or so. I'm going to have to use a dyno it seems as it's just not safe for me anymore. I have even had some 3rd gear spin and with the JRSC. Don't know what to say -- it's frick'n hard to use now that i'm supercharged. I tried. It sucked.

Wayne
Should always have someone else drive the car and you can look at all the sensors in action

Regardless, it is very dangerous and you should do it on a dyno

Mikey
 

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Billy Ball is in effect
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I cant believe I missed this thread!

I had tried doing something like this on excell, but being in school has limited the amount of time I could mess with it so i quit.

GREAT work. I cant wait to give it a try sometime later this week. Seems pretty user friendly too (granted, you have to understand whats going on).

Once again, great work!
 

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Razathorn said:
So, you're having trouble plotting the data -- That's a pretty fundemental part of using the system. I don't actually use excel, I use star office. I can probably make an excel template some time in the future however.
Yeah I had a hard time following that point of the process. I couldn't understand what to do with the data spit back from the webpage.
 

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glory to the hypnotoad
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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
640k said:
Yeah I had a hard time following that point of the process. I couldn't understand what to do with the data spit back from the webpage.
Well that sucks! I will have to make some more detailed instructions.
 

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Razathorn said:
If you check the tuning program page, I have uploaded a Star Office graphing template.

Wayne
Does Star Office have an export function? I don't see a method for importing the file into Excel.
 

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Ha thats great. I thought it was just cross compatible cause it worked like a charm. Thanks for the hookup on this. It made your theroy or proven concept possible for me to tune cam angles. This shit is great, props razathorn +rep
 

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Now that I've figured it out (with the help of Razathorn), this is the best thing in the entire world! Thanks for saving me the $200-$300 on a dyno! My CAM angles weren't that far off, but with a better VTEC x-over and tweaked CAM angles, I believe my car will love me more as I will love it. :D

Oh and btw, once you get all of the data from his site, its super easy to create your own chart. I used Open Office to do my tuning, but Excel is much faster when switching between data/sheets.
 

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Razathorn, do you see a good method of looking at acceleration and determining when power is no longer made before you make your next shift?

On a dyno chart, its easy to see that if power starts to drop off after 7900 RPMs, that you should shift then. One the spreadsheet, its not so easy to tell.
 

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glory to the hypnotoad
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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
640k said:
Razathorn, do you see a good method of looking at acceleration and determining when power is no longer made before you make your next shift?

On a dyno chart, its easy to see that if power starts to drop off after 7900 RPMs, that you should shift then. One the spreadsheet, its not so easy to tell.
This is a common misconception. I can tell you that, unless you did something fundementally different to your motor, you should shift as close to the rev limiter as possile. You don't want to shift as soon as you stop making more power, you want to shift when one of two things happens: You are going to reach the rev limiter or where you will land in the rpm range will make more power than you're making now.

Basically you're shooting for maximum area under the hp curve in the section of rpm (usually like 6500 - 8500). Granted, 8500 may not make as much power as 7900, but it will make much more power than 6500 at your next shift. Think of the gear / powerband as a sliding window in your rpm band. You want to place this window so that if you averaged all the points or calculated the area under the curve in that section, that that number would be the highest. This is the case all the way up to the rev limiter on our cars almost always.

Wayne
 

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Razathorn said:
This is a common misconception. I can tell you that, unless you did something fundementally different to your motor, you should shift as close to the rev limiter as possile. You don't want to shift as soon as you stop making more power, you want to shift when one of two things happens: You are going to reach the rev limiter or where you will land in the rpm range will make more power than you're making now.

Basically you're shooting for maximum area under the hp curve in the section of rpm (usually like 6500 - 8500). Granted, 8500 may not make as much power as 7900, but it will make much more power than 6500 at your next shift. Think of the gear / powerband as a sliding window in your rpm band. You want to place this window so that if you averaged all the points or calculated the area under the curve in that section, that that number would be the highest. This is the case all the way up to the rev limiter on our cars almost always.

Wayne
That makes sense. :thumbsup:
 

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Hi, I have created an offline Windows-software for creating "torque" graphs from exported kpro-datalogs. It's called ThetaDyno :)

Here's the latest binary version:
ThetaDyno rev 2005-Dec-29

I guess it's pretty self-explanatory to use so no user manual available.

If you try it out, put comments, bugs and all other speculation on this thread.

Some screenshots:





 
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