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GTX35R
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30,385 Posts
Both builds are looking sweet you guys!
Thanks I appreciate it.


TO ANYONE...

I need some advice. I'm running a Walbro 450lph E85 Fuel Pump (High Pressure) with 2000cc injectors. I plan on running a -10an feed and -8an return. Do I need to run 2 walbros? I also have a inline filter should I run one walbro in tank and one after the filter? My power goals are somewhere around 800whp on a GT35R.
 

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Still tuning....
Joined
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3,836 Posts
Thanks I appreciate it.


TO ANYONE...

I need some advice. I'm running a Walbro 450lph E85 Fuel Pump (High Pressure) with 2000cc injectors. I plan on running a -10an feed and -8an return. Do I need to run 2 walbros? I also have a inline filter should I run one walbro in tank and one after the filter? My power goals are somewhere around 800whp on a GT35R.
you can get upper 600s whp with a single at a crazy base pressure. Dont know if a gt35r will get up to the 800whp range though. Fitting two 450s in there is gonna be some work too.
 

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Shazaam
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4,596 Posts
You could always drill the bottom of the tank and install a bulkhead fitting to an external pump that is triggered by a hobbs switch to come on at a specified boost level. That way you only have one pump running full time to keep fuel temps down and enough pump to make 800whp under boost.
 

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GTX35R
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30,385 Posts
you can get upper 600s whp with a single at a crazy base pressure. Dont know if a gt35r will get up to the 800whp range though. Fitting two 450s in there is gonna be some work too.
You could always drill the bottom of the tank and install a bulkhead fitting to an external pump that is triggered by a hobbs switch to come on at a specified boost level. That way you only have one pump running full time to keep fuel temps down and enough pump to make 800whp under boost.

I think I need to evaluate what hp is going to be realistic. I've seen people use dual rail setups and all kind of crazy stuff to make high horsepower. Truth be told this car will sit in the garage a lot. It's a car to drive when I want to have fun. I have a nice car as a DD. I think 600+ should be fun. I'm going to start there.
 

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Still tuning....
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3,836 Posts
I think I need to evaluate what hp is going to be realistic. I've seen people use dual rail setups and all kind of crazy stuff to make high horsepower. Truth be told this car will sit in the garage a lot. It's a car to drive when I want to have fun. I have a nice car as a DD. I think 600+ should be fun. I'm going to start there.
Dont get much better than this:...I stand corrected.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/walbro-450lph-f90000267-pump-limits-dyno-chart-3250715/


What you doing for your transmission?? I've got a 4.0 Gear-x final drive sitting around that I'm not using. Dependent on how much you want to push it, I think it would mate up pretty good with a 6 speed ratios at that whp.
 

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GTX35R
Joined
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30,385 Posts
Dont get much better than this:...I stand corrected.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/walbro-450lph-f90000267-pump-limits-dyno-chart-3250715/


What you doing for your transmission?? I've got a 4.0 Gear-x final drive sitting around that I'm not using. Dependent on how much you want to push it, I think it would mate up pretty good with a 6 speed ratios at that whp.
Well damn that's good news. I'm doing a ppg 1-4 gear set. 5th will actually match 4th pretty much and i'll have a tsx 6th gear. You think the 4.0 will help? I was going to do a 4.3 final drive?
 

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GTX35R
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30,385 Posts

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GTX35R
Joined
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30,385 Posts
So here is the whole build you guys can give my your opinions

Block
K20A2
Dalton Sleeves Bored to 88mm
Weisco 10.4:1 88mm Pisons
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
ACL Race Bearings
Polished Crankshaft
Copper Headgasket
ARP L19 Headstuds
Hybrid Racing TCT
All new sensor and seals

Head
4P Job to fow 360CFM
Upgraded Valves, Springs, Retainers, Locks, Seals, Seats, etc...
Stock Cams
Replaced VTC Solenoid and all other sensors in the head
All new seals
Stock Rockers

Transmission
PPG 1-4 Gears
Quaife LSD
TSX 6th Gear
4.3 Final Drive
Synchrotech Type S Carbon Syncho Rebuild Kit
ACT Dual Disc w/ Lightweight Flywheel
Maybe: Tilton Hydralic Kit
Ktuned Shifter Cables
Short Throw Shifter

Turbo
GT3582R Gen 2
Full Race Twinscroll Manifold
Dual MV-R 44mm Tial WG
Tial Q 50mm BOV 8psi
3in custom exhaust
Digital Boost Gauge
Digital A/F Gauge
Either: Digital Oil Pressure or Meth Inj Gauage

Suspension & Brakes
BC Racing Coilovers
Rear and Front Strut Bar
Front/Rear Sway bars
All new Energy Suspension bushings
Camber kits
Adjustable Ball Joints
Adjustable Tie Rods & Tie Rod Ends
Brake Booster Line Kit
Speed Bleeders
Stoptech Big brake kit w/ sr660 fluid

Others
85A Motor Mount Kit
Ktuned CMC & Slave & Clutch Line Kit
Custom SS braided lines replace ABS ones
Custom AC Lines
Ktuned PS Line
Meth Injection Kit Stg 3 with upgrade solenoid and controller. With 1 625 ml/min & 1 175 ml/min nozzels
New Starter
New AC Condensor
New Alternator
Driveshat Level 5.9 Replacement Axle/Hub Kit
Battery Relocate to Trunk
New Fans & Switch
New Radiator
Viper System
New Pioneer Touchscreen w/ Alpine speakers tied to bose sub
Backup Camera integration
New leather and suede on all seats
Suede door lines and head liner and pillars
 

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Still tuning....
Joined
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3,836 Posts
Is this worth the money???

http://tiltonracing.com/product/honda-hydraulic-release-bearing-kits/


I'm buying this

https://www.kseriesparts.com/cr/KTD-CLK-KMS.html

is this the best or is there something better?
I looked at both of those cause my CMC shit the bed. I think the tilton has to be used with a tilton twin? Maybe?

I didn't to the k-tuned setup cause I already had the hard line and it appears that it is a rebranded EM1 style CMC (I think). My SMC was fine. Not a bad kit though. If I didn't already have the hard line, I would of ordered it.

So here is the whole build you guys can give my your opinions

Block
K20A2
Dalton Sleeves Bored to 88mm
Weisco 10.4:1 88mm Pisons
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
ACL Race Bearings
Polished Crankshaft
Copper Headgasket
ARP L19 Headstuds
Hybrid Racing TCT
All new sensor and seals

Head
4P Job to fow 360CFM
Upgraded Valves, Springs, Retainers, Locks, Seals, Seats, etc...
Stock Cams
Replaced VTC Solenoid and all other sensors in the head
All new seals
Stock Rockers

Transmission
PPG 1-4 Gears
Quaife LSD
TSX 6th Gear
4.3 Final Drive
Synchrotech Type S Carbon Syncho Rebuild Kit
ACT Dual Disc w/ Lightweight Flywheel
Maybe: Tilton Hydralic Kit
Ktuned Shifter Cables
Short Throw Shifter

Turbo
GT3582R Gen 2
Full Race Twinscroll Manifold
Dual MV-R 44mm Tial WG
Tial Q 50mm BOV 8psi
3in custom exhaust
Digital Boost Gauge
Digital A/F Gauge
Either: Digital Oil Pressure or Meth Inj Gauage

Suspension & Brakes
BC Racing Coilovers
Rear and Front Strut Bar
Front/Rear Sway bars
All new Energy Suspension bushings
Camber kits
Adjustable Ball Joints
Adjustable Tie Rods & Tie Rod Ends
Brake Booster Line Kit
Speed Bleeders
Stoptech Big brake kit w/ sr660 fluid

Others
85A Motor Mount Kit
Ktuned CMC & Slave & Clutch Line Kit
Custom SS braided lines replace ABS ones
Custom AC Lines
Ktuned PS Line
Meth Injection Kit Stg 3 with upgrade solenoid and controller. With 1 625 ml/min & 1 175 ml/min nozzels
New Starter
New AC Condensor
New Alternator
Driveshat Level 5.9 Replacement Axle/Hub Kit
Battery Relocate to Trunk
New Fans & Switch
New Radiator
Viper System
New Pioneer Touchscreen w/ Alpine speakers tied to bose sub
Backup Camera integration
New leather and suede on all seats
Suede door lines and head liner and pillars
Looks good :fistbump:...and expensive. Few things I would personally change, but I think that would be a beast.
 

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GTX35R
Joined
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30,385 Posts
I looked at both of those cause my CMC shit the bed. I think the tilton has to be used with a tilton twin? Maybe?

I didn't to the k-tuned setup cause I already had the hard line and it appears that it is a rebranded EM1 style CMC (I think). My SMC was fine. Not a bad kit though. If I didn't already have the hard line, I would of ordered it.



Looks good :fistbump:...and expensive. Few things I would personally change, but I think that would be a beast.
Thank you I really appreciate it. What would you change, I'd like to know.
 

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Still tuning....
Joined
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3,836 Posts
Thank you I really appreciate it. What would you change, I'd like to know.
What kind of fuel you running? E85? If so, ditch the meth injection.

When we take this shit to the track, and u looking at some tail lights, cant do that with a BBK installed (and run slicks).

Run some cams to take advantage of that sweet head work and TCT.

Not a huge proponent of twin scroll (even though the bimmer has em). I would prefer a single 60 for time, space, cost, tuning.

L19 head studs use to have some weird shit go on with moisture exposure or something like that. Becoming brittle, off top of my head.

Dream list, I would have a race spec k-tuned shifter (not pro, just race).

Gotta have A/C?

What IC you gonna run?

Just my opinions :beerchug:
 

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GTX35R
Joined
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30,385 Posts
What kind of fuel you running? E85? If so, ditch the meth injection.
I wouldn't mind running e85 but only sphinx carries it around here. I could do a 93 pump w/ meth and then a e85 map. Jeff Evans says kpro has a switch for changing maps I could put a switch in the car that changed the map to e85 and turned off the meth injection.

When we take this shit to the track, and u looking at some tail lights, cant do that with a BBK installed (and run slicks).
I honeslty didn't plan on doing much track stuff but I see your point damn :confused:

Run some cams to take advantage of that sweet head work and TCT.
I can't figure out what the best cams to run are. I mean the stock ones make nasty power. I was going to do Prayoonto Racing Stage 4 Cams. Just not sure if the extra stress on the TCT is worth the power.

Not a huge proponent of twin scroll (even though the bimmer has em). I would prefer a single 60 for time, space, cost, tuning.
Brian (fade2black) said the same things. He said get a single scroll with a large WG. I'll look at going that route.

L19 head studs use to have some weird shit go on with moisture exposure or something like that. Becoming brittle, off top of my head.
I didn't know that. I much rather save the $$$ and get the regular head studs just wasn't sure which was better so...

Dream list, I would have a race spec k-tuned shifter (not pro, just race).
Why would you get that???

Gotta have A/C?
Yes i'm fat and i get hot as fuck lol

What IC you gonna run?
It'd save money to buy the full race in a kit but I really want to run an oversized IC. Something like a Treadstone 26.5x12x3.5
 

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Registered
Joined
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247 Posts
What kind of fuel you running? E85? If so, ditch the meth injection.

When we take this shit to the track, and u looking at some tail lights, cant do that with a BBK installed (and run slicks).

Run some cams to take advantage of that sweet head work and TCT.

Not a huge proponent of twin scroll (even though the bimmer has em). I would prefer a single 60 for time, space, cost, tuning.

L19 head studs use to have some weird shit go on with moisture exposure or something like that. Becoming brittle, off top of my head.

Dream list, I would have a race spec k-tuned shifter (not pro, just race).

Gotta have A/C?

What IC you gonna run?

Just my opinions :beerchug:
What's wrong with twin scroll? Space-wise/time I understand, but tuning? Just curious... :)
 

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Still tuning....
Joined
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3,836 Posts
What's wrong with twin scroll? Space-wise/time I understand, but tuning? Just curious... :)
I would be concerned with potential creep from one wastegate from another due to cracked diaphragm, vacuum hose issues, sticking shaft causing uneven back pressure, etc....

Boost by gear and electronic boost controller would be a lot less worrisome/trouble with only dealing with one wastegate as opposed to two for the reasons mentioned above. Just my personal preference. The less shit to tear up, the better. Power wise, twin scroll usually comes out on top.

And a 60 costs ~$500. Two 44, ~$700. Don't dual wastegate/twin scroll mani cost more initially?
 

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GTX35R
Joined
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30,385 Posts
I would be concerned with potential creep from one wastegate from another due to cracked diaphragm, vacuum hose issues, sticking shaft causing uneven back pressure, etc....

Boost by gear and electronic boost controller would be a lot less worrisome/trouble with only dealing with one wastegate as opposed to two for the reasons mentioned above. Just my personal preference. The less shit to tear up, the better. Power wise, twin scroll usually comes out on top.

And a 60 costs ~$500. Two 44, ~$700. Don't dual wastegate/twin scroll mani cost more initially?
i'm def going single scroll
 

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Registered
Joined
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247 Posts
I would be concerned with potential creep from one wastegate from another due to cracked diaphragm, vacuum hose issues, sticking shaft causing uneven back pressure, etc....

Boost by gear and electronic boost controller would be a lot less worrisome/trouble with only dealing with one wastegate as opposed to two for the reasons mentioned above. Just my personal preference. The less shit to tear up, the better. Power wise, twin scroll usually comes out on top.

And a 60 costs ~$500. Two 44, ~$700. Don't dual wastegate/twin scroll mani cost more initially?
Makes sense, I got an open-box deal on my manifold, and I got 2 lightly used tial 44mm wastegates for $420 lol so I can't complain :D
 
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