Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner

1081 - 1100 of 1109 Posts

·
Still tuning....
Joined
·
3,836 Posts
Quick question. What do you guys do with your pcv valve? Where did you route it? Also the iacv where did you route those hoses?
Drill it and tap it 3/8 npt and run it to catch can and empty it like a man in the driveway every 1k miles or so. :thumbsup:
 

·
GTX35R
Joined
·
30,387 Posts
lmao i just drilled mine and had a filter on it lmao
I think that's what I am going to do for now. Got to much other crap to work on.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
23,808 Posts
yeah I got rid of the PCV valve and just put an open nipple fitting on it and ran it to my catch can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
6262 E85 K24 and I run as stock right into the intake. Not saying that's the way to go, but I have zero issues and it runs as well as the stock motor, well + 300hp.
 

·
Boosted K20A3
Joined
·
74 Posts
Just don’t delete your PCV valve and run IM boost pressure into the crankcase. Your stock PCV also doesn’t shut/seal, like I said earlier and like how a standard oil/fuel rated check valve will.
 

·
GTX35R
Joined
·
30,387 Posts

·
GTX35R
Joined
·
30,387 Posts
That one says to run to the compressor inlet, so there’d be no worries of boosting your crankcase there.

Man I wish that’s all I paid for my setup ?
Lol yeah i'm getting cheap right her at the end. I've spent way more money than I should have. But it's so close. Just ready to get her running again. Hoping to drop the motor in tomorrow. Got to run to LKQ and get some bolts and other stuff.
 

·
GTX35R
Joined
·
30,387 Posts
That one says to run to the compressor inlet, so there’d be no worries of boosting your crankcase there.

Man I wish that’s all I paid for my setup ?
I was reading about that catch can. Since it's "filtered" can't I just cap the outlet side and run the pcv to the can?
 

·
Boosted K20A3
Joined
·
74 Posts
I was reading about that catch can. Since it's "filtered" can't I just cap the outlet side and run the pcv to the can?
I don't have any experience with one, but you would then be relying on positive crankcase pressure pushing the vapors into the catch can instead of allowing a vacuum source to pull it through. I imagine it wouldn't be very effective, but others can chime in on that note.
 

·
GTX35R
Joined
·
30,387 Posts
Anybody have a type s clutch case or tranny for sale? My clutch case cracked. FML
 

·
GTX35R
Joined
·
30,387 Posts
Has anyone used gear driven inc?

I'm going to have him build my transmission and I wanted to see if anyone had used him before.
 

·
Shazaam
Joined
·
4,601 Posts
Why would you run a check valve inline of the hose running to the compressor inlet? There is no way for the inlet to generate positive pressure so the check valve isn't doing anything other than keeping the crankcase from having a clean air supply. You want that open when the IM is pulling vacuum so that you have a "clean side" for your crankcase to replace the "dirty" air being drawn into the catch can during manifold vacuum.

I've tried everything from dual cans(one clean side draft can, one dirty side pcv can), 3 port cans, single vented pcv can, etc and I've always had the best results with either the dual can or 3 port cans. You also need to be aware of the size hose you are using the amount of crankcase evacuation it is capable. Putting that check valve on the inlet side may generate a very, very, very minor amount more vacuum on the crank case but it's really not worth it.

Most of my PCV experience comes from dealing with LSx motors and now the RB26 which are notorious for crank case pressure problems blowing out seals.
 

·
Boosted K20A3
Joined
·
74 Posts
Why would you run a check valve inline of the hose running to the compressor inlet? There is no way for the inlet to generate positive pressure so the check valve isn't doing anything other than keeping the crankcase from having a clean air supply. You want that open when the IM is pulling vacuum so that you have a "clean side" for your crankcase to replace the "dirty" air being drawn into the catch can during manifold vacuum.

I've tried everything from dual cans(one clean side draft can, one dirty side pcv can), 3 port cans, single vented pcv can, etc and I've always had the best results with either the dual can or 3 port cans. You also need to be aware of the size hose you are using the amount of crankcase evacuation it is capable. Putting that check valve on the inlet side may generate a very, very, very minor amount more vacuum on the crank case but it's really not worth it.

Most of my PCV experience comes from dealing with LSx motors and now the RB26 which are notorious for crank case pressure problems blowing out seals.
It doesn't matter that the compressor inlet never produces positive pressure. Relative pressure is what matters. At idle, vacuum is higher (lower absolute pressure) in the IM than the compressor inlet, which is also a vacuum but is a lower vacuum (higher absolute pressure). The check valve ensures the IM isn't drawing air pre-compressor and is instead drawing air (if any) from the PCV system through the catch can.

Also, my system uses a stock style PCV valve - not a drilled out or removed valve like others do.
 

·
Boosted K20A3
Joined
·
74 Posts
It got quiet in here! How about a dyno video to break the silence?

 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
23,808 Posts
That is a great looking dyno graph. Super steady climb and the torque is solid across the board. Nice setup
 
1081 - 1100 of 1109 Posts
Top