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*BOOSTED* Lead Foot
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been at this for hours, and am frustrated to hell. the area in question is that I need to remove the subframe. First and foremost, I won't be able to do that. these 2 ball joints will not come out. They are the ones that connect the lower A arm and spindles up front..I've spent $114 to rent a ball joint puller kit and have been at it for hours now...I'm SO frustrated!

So my question is this, for you that have installed turbos on your own...can you get away with removing the rollbar endlinks from the subframe, and the front and rear (in relation to the car, not the engine) motor mounts and have the subframe drop down enough to get a putty knife in there? The putty knife is to cut the seal for the oilpan
Thanks for your help!:) I'm gonna go back out and try to break my thumb..
 

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i completed the install without removing the subframe. you can fit a putty knife in there regardless of the subframe, but in order to get the oil pan out you need to lower the subframe about an inch. if you lower it about an inch, you can get your manifold and downpipe on also.
i loosened the four main bolts on the subframe, which are 17 mm, and the rear motor mount and that was it
 

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*BOOSTED* Lead Foot
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
types03 said:
i completed the install without removing the subframe. you can fit a putty knife in there regardless of the subframe, but in order to get the oil pan out you need to lower the subframe about an inch. if you lower it about an inch, you can get your manifold and downpipe on also.
i loosened the four main bolts on the subframe, which are 17 mm, and the rear motor mount and that was it
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I'm gonna go remove that rear motormount and I should be golden!:)
 

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*BOOSTED* Lead Foot
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks again for your help! I removed the front motormount and I have full access to everything now:)
 

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also, if you run into some problems getting the manifold in, you can try taking off your valve cover, and going from the top
 

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*BOOSTED* Lead Foot
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks again!:) I"ll keep that in mind when I'm ready for it:)
I didn't get that far today...as I was beating my head into a brick wall concerning those damn ball joints I never got off! I finally got the oilpan off, and cleaned up like it was brand new and shiny!:) I had to run to a friends house and use his grinder to modify a putty knife...then I pried at one of those pry points, pried pretty hard to where I could get that putty knife in there, and started cutting the seal...It was like a big weight being lifted off my shoulders once I got that oilpan off! FINALLY some progress!
 

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If i remember correctly, there are pry points to get the oil pan off, if you just pry anywhere, theres a chance that you deform the edge that seals the pan to the block making sealing difficult/unreliable when you put it back on. Just make sure the sealing edge of the oil pan is completely clean and flat. I used a few razorblades, I dont suggest using sandpaper. Last thing you want is an oil leak 10k miles later!

Good luck
 

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*BOOSTED* Lead Foot
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got it all clean and shiny like it was new...the surface at least...and it'll hold. From what I can see, it looks like the Permatex "The right stuff" would be better than the Permatex Ultra Gray they had me get. s'posedly, it has a higher temp rating, and can be put into service immediately:)
 

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when you tap your oil return line, you might have some problems with the angle, and the hose might kink, so becareful with that. the line might look straight but chances are when it heats up it will kink.
 

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*BOOSTED* Lead Foot
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks again!:) so, if I have kinking problems, would I just go out and buy a longer hose to solve this problem?
 

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nah, what i did was i got two new nipples from a hardware store. i believe one was a 45 and the other was a 90. i screwed one onto the turbo outlet, and the other onto the tapped bolt of the oil pan. then i connected the two nipples with the hose CN supplied, now my hose is only about 6 inches long and connects the two points totally straight.
 
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