Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It's time... after about 3 years, I think it's time for a first proper mod. (aside from some nice summer preformance tires)

05' base 5spd. Still new to this, so any help would be great.

My plan is to switch out the stock exhaust but after some research I would need to switch out the header for a type S header & ALSO switch out the motor mounts. Doing the work myself would save me money since it doesn't look like an insane job but now my question is what to do first... Money is a little tigher than I thoguth right now at least until I get that tax return...

I was looking towards: invidia Q300 with the invidia header
and if possible Hasport motor mounts.

the mounts alone are about $500 cdn (for 62A or 70A) I think 70a should more than enough for daily driving & some night runs

the header from what I've seen is $900+ and the exhaust is about 750...

I can't go the Header/mounts option cuz I can't run the stock exhaust with them, trying to find a type-s cat back might be difficult.

So is it possible go with headers/exhaust and wait on the motor mounts? or am I asking for trouble with a cracked new header.

The car is still stock
 

·
Past Driver’s Ed
Joined
·
494 Posts
Motor mount inserts will work well and I believe they still cost less than $40.00. My engine generates 360hp and my inserts are performing just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
812 Posts
Since you’re getting a race header and exhaust, I recommend you get Kpro or ktuner, or at least a race header specific reflash. I’m sure there will be gains, but it could make you lean at WOT. Getting tuned will allow you to take full advantage of the increase in exhaust flow. An intake wouldn’t be a bad idea either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Motor mount inserts will work well and I believe they still cost less than $40.00. My engine generates 360hp and my inserts are performing just fine.
Thanks for the reply guys. If you don’t mind me asking what kinda mounts do you have? What grade (still new to mounts)


As for the tune thanks for the recommendation, I haven’t done any research as of yet on those ecu tuners but I’m assuming it won’t be cheap, if I got the header/exhaust/mounts would I be doing damage by doing pulls every now and then?


Any key tips or do’s / do not, when switching out header/exhaust?



————-

Didn’t notice you said mount inserts, those are the cheaper route right? How long have you had your inserts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
812 Posts
It's possible that you can damage something, but you really won't know unless you're monitoring your A/F ratio. I've read posts on here where people are lean after installing a race header, and others are fine.

Becase you have an 05, Ktuner will be cheaper than Kpro. As far as I know, they both have all of the same features, but Kpro has a larger support base as it's been around longer. Think I paid $500 and sent in my ECU to be modified. Turbogixxer Tuning offers a Ktuner reflash for intake/header/exhaust for $295. With both of these options though, you'll be without a vehicle until you get your ECU back. You can also get an ECU that's already prepped with Ktuner, but that's a couple hundred extra bucks.

As for the exhaust, just make sure you don't bottle neck it. What I mean by that is don't get an exhaust that has a smaller diameter pipe than the collector on the race header. It'll impede exhaust flow and render any gains from the header obsolete.
 

·
Past Driver’s Ed
Joined
·
494 Posts
^x2. To be on the safe side, replace the engine's stainless steel exhaust manifold gasket with a new one to avoid leaks. Torque bolts/nuts starting from the middle and working your way to the outside ones. Tighten gasket bolts a little bit at a time so that the gasket is compressed evenly. The worst thing you could do is tighten a bolt/nut completely before moving onto the next one.
 

·
#Inkpot
Joined
·
4,755 Posts
Just my opinion here but I've read over and over that you can run the header back without a tune fairly safely. Its when you get into an intake manifold that you really have to get a safer tune.

The q300 is a great exhaust, I had it and loved it compared to what everyone else had on theor cars.

Id say get the plm header for a lot cheaper but the fitmemt with the q300 is... less than ideal(shit) as I had that as well. Perhaps the dc header is less of a pain in the ass with the q300. You should be able to find the q300 used for a decent price.

All this said and done, if its the base rsx, Id just throw on some eBay short headers and the cat back. When your able to afford it later, get the iTunes and maybe a tune will give you a nice boost with a lower vtec engagement point.


Again just my opinion. But I definitely reccomend the q300.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
It's possible that you can damage something, but you really won't know unless you're monitoring your A/F ratio. I've read posts on here where people are lean after installing a race header, and others are fine.

Becase you have an 05, Ktuner will be cheaper than Kpro. As far as I know, they both have all of the same features, but Kpro has a larger support base as it's been around longer. Think I paid $500 and sent in my ECU to be modified. Turbogixxer Tuning offers a Ktuner reflash for intake/header/exhaust for $295. With both of these options though, you'll be without a vehicle until you get your ECU back. You can also get an ECU that's already prepped with Ktuner, but that's a couple hundred extra bucks.

As for the exhaust, just make sure you don't bottle neck it. What I mean by that is don't get an exhaust that has a smaller diameter pipe than the collector on the race header. It'll impede exhaust flow and render any gains from the header obsolete.
For the bottle neck thing, that seems pretty straight forward, I’ll have to double check the sizes but I’m sure if I pair the Invidia header with the Invidia exhaust it would be fine. For ktuner I’ll keep that in mind, I still have the stock air box at the moment though. I don’t know much on those reflashes, it pretty much changes my a/f ratio and when vtec can engage right?

^x2. To be on the safe side, replace the engine's stainless steel exhaust manifold gasket with a new one to avoid leaks. Torque bolts/nuts starting from the middle and working your way to the outside ones. Tighten gasket bolts a little bit at a time so that the gasket is compressed evenly. The worst thing you could do is tighten a bolt/nut completely before moving onto the next one.
Thanks for that, don’t have a torque wrench for we job sadly, making them snug will be fine I hope. Not sure if most companies provide the header gasket but worst case sernario I can hit up a Honda shop.

Just my opinion here but I've read over and over that you can run the header back without a tune fairly safely. Its when you get into an intake manifold that you really have to get a safer tune.

The q300 is a great exhaust, I had it and loved it compared to what everyone else had on theor cars.

Id say get the plm header for a lot cheaper but the fitmemt with the q300 is... less than ideal(shit) as I had that as well. Perhaps the dc header is less of a pain in the ass with the q300. You should be able to find the q300 used for a decent price.

All this said and done, if its the base rsx, Id just throw on some eBay short headers and the cat back. When your able to afford it later, get the iTunes and maybe a tune will give you a nice boost with a lower vtec engagement point.


Again just my opinion. But I definitely reccomend the q300.
Yeah thanks bro, most def going with the q300. I thought about the cheaper route but I’d rather swap the old with something good while I have money now tbh lol. The tune or ktuner will most likely have to come later on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
On a side note, I was planning to trying new, mainly just to make sure I get all the parts I need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well shoot, I got my tax return and ending up buying a bunch of shit ha... Not completely broke but almost... anyways

I bought K-Tuned K1 coilovers
K-tuned header
K-tuned 3" catback exhaust
Hasport motor mounts
camber bolts & a rear camber arms/kit


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Attempted to install the mounts today but I couldn't get one of the nuts off the driver side mount stud, I also tried to remove the battery and still couldn't get a good angle on it, tried to take off the battery tray but couldn't fully get it off... found a third bolt below the tray and i was gonna try to take it off but it looked rusted af & rounded so I said screw it, I'd rather keep it there and make sure I can put the battery back in and have it secure.

Going to try to get the mounts in this week again, then hopefully the header and exhaust (still kinda scared, thinking that the header wont fit for some reason) then after the power mods, get the coilovers on, camber kit & get the alignment the following day or the next day.

Still need to replace my rotors as well and look up more info on tuning/ecu stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Installing new mods on your RSX equals fun times. How much were thinking of dropping the ride height?
tbh not much lower, some of these roads around downtown toronto are ass so I'm 100% not going for the slammed style (might be the opposite in the next year or two lol)

So far I got the motor mounts in solo and then the next day me and a friend tackled the header/exhaust setup. Also helped him install his new intercooler on his mini cooper :fistbump:

As for the coilovers maybe 1.5 inches maybe?
 

·
I Hate Honda's
Joined
·
1,119 Posts
That escalated quickly. You'll love the Hasport mounts. I have them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Man I love them. It was a 2 day install for me but well worth it, I ended up doing it solo and it took a logn time but everything turned out great, they've been in for two weeks now? or so, I did the K-tuned headers and exahust the next day at a buddies house and getting in the new exahust took a while lol.

I want to make a thread on the hasport mounts, I have a few photos and choppy video clips but I wanted to create a thread just to talk aobut the steps I went through, just incase someone else wants to pick up the mounts you know. I wouldn't have been able to do most of things on my car without the threads/members on this site.

* on the mounts, I can do some digs without wheelhop at all now, it felt amazing on pulls. Lots of vibrations when I put the first mount in and then the rear/passenger mounts really took it up a another notch but after having the mounts in for 2 weeks its way smoother now, only annoying part is when I have the AC on while stopped/idle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
K1 K-Tuned Coilovers

So finally got everything good with the new setup.

I had installed the front coilovers and couldn't remove the stock strut/springs in the rears because of the lower bolt being seized. So ended up driving around with just the front coilovers in for about 2 weeks :shakehead with a load of camber too, never adjusted the camber bolts once I got them in.

Two weeks later, went to my local guys & they tried to torch the bolt but it the bolt was spinning in the metal bushings... ended up cutting it out and installing the rear coilvers afterwards & a quick "eye" alignment because I had to go to work. Next day got everything settled.


Anyways little did I know me or my buddy fucked up the pre-load a little on the front coilovers, I'd always listen to music while driving & I happened to notice there was a almost crackle/crunching sound whenever I went over speed bumps or small bumps... I was looking over all the bolts and everything was tight, we torqued everything down to spec. BUT what I didn't notice was that I could actually spin/turn the springs while the car was jacked up. I knew something was off when I check the rears and they were solid. Checked to see if I could move the srping while under load (used the jack on one tire to lift/give pressure.. and the srping is solid.

All I had to do fix this issue was tighten the pre-load perches. After I tightened them to the point were they can't really turn anymore (no load on the car), made sure to measure the pre-load distance so it would be the same on the other side & then jsut tightened everything up. Test drive & turns out that was the issue.

Glad I fixed that because shit was annoying and also embarrassing whenever there was people near by :rotfl::thumbsdow (Loud ass acura rolling down the street only to be creaking over every speed bump)

Just posted this incase anyone has/had this problem. Make sure to tighten all the bolts, & do not fuck with the pre-load unless you know what your doing (prbly for the track boys)

Loving the new setup, I'll try to post some photos later. Need to fix up the rust on my rear qp & clean out my headlights & I can actually feel comfortable posting photos of the driver side :rotfl:
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top