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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
in my desperate attempt to be one of the cool kids, I figured I gotta get me one of these show off threads too... so here it is

I got this car so I have something to use as a cheap track car. the goal is to build it as cheap as possible without buying crap parts. I also wanted a track car that wasn't particularly fast... in my mind, its more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow.

I bought it from one of my sister's coworkers and got a great deal on it, so naturally I dumped that money into mods :D...

Here's what it looked like when I got it, all stock save for no brand crap offset 18" wheels. (excuse the snapchat pics)





here's the current parts list, I'll keep this updated as I add stuff to it. I'll do some review's in the thread of notable parts

First round of mods
Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35
235/45-17 Dunlop Direzza ZII
Fortune Auto 500 coilovers w/ 10k/14k Swift springs
Buddy Club roll correction ball joint
Ingalls rear camber arm w/ rubber bushing
Stoptech Stainless brake lines
EBC Yellow pads
Centric rotors ($25 fronts / $15 rear :laughing:)
Torque brakefluid
Goodrich Stainless clutchline
ARP stock length wheel studs on 3 of the wheels (dont ask)
DC Sports short ram intake - got this for the noise :vtec:

Second round of mods
SuperPro increase caster front LCA bushings
Buddy Club reclinable seat w/ Buddy Club rails

Third round of mods
DC Ceramic race header - wrapped
Hondata KPro

Forth round of mods
CL Brakes RC5+ front brake pads


my kitty getting cozy with my tools as I get ready to put on the ultimate ricer mod. He did this for a good 5 minutes...
http://vid128.photobucket.com/album...6-6CA7-4304-807D-C57EEB7C8291_zps55savd9w.mp4

(ignore snapchat autocorrect misspelling)





Wheels came in




special offroad stance


and now settled down a bit, still on stock suspension



Coilovers arrived

almost done with install





first track day, sorry no action pics or vids



what my tire looked like at the end of the day


this was around too...


first FWD autocross experience ever as a driver (kinda hated it to be honest). excuse the horrible quality pics... only so much a zoomed in iPhail can do...




3 wheeling :vtec:
 

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Did another track day on the 10th with SCCA Track nights, no pics this time but I have vids!
https://youtu.be/8asY-ks-_6M

Lap 2 is my fastest to date
https://youtu.be/BFtgVKMIKbI

Also had a chance to compare the SuperPro bushings vs stock. It's not exactly an apples to apples review as with the stock bushings I had -1.8 camber and now I have -2.5. These bushings increased my castor from right around .5 to 1.7 and 1.3. It wasn't exactly even stock either though, but I can't find an old alignment sheet to see the exact figures. I also raised the front 1/4 to 1/2" (don't remember exactly) and lowered the rear a 1/4" (remember this one :D)

I'm not sure where the improvement came from, the caster or the camber, but it was a huge difference. The front grips much much better, and it feels better as well, as if the car is struggling a lot less. Now it only understeers when I screw up. Also, corner exit on tight corners seams to have gotten a little worse. I think it's because the inside tire also has more negative camber and therefore a smaller contact patch.

Overall I definitely recommend these if you track your car. Or the PCI or Hardrace option of you prefer the pillowball option.

For autocross I don't really know as I didn't autocross this car with the stock bushings (for the record, I didn't like the RSX in an autox, after autoxing Z's, Evo's, and STi's, fwd flat out sucks IMHO).

For street I don't really recommend it since I didn't feel a difference in street driving (and if there is anyone here that thinks they drive fast enough on the street/twisties to notice a difference, you're out of your mind and you'll be dead by next week if you actually do). But they didn't add any NVH over stock, although keep in mind I have coilovers. If your suspension is stock or just regular springs then it's possible you may notice a difference over stock.
 

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I finally got myself a proper seat! Buddy club reclinable, I didn't really want a bucket since I do driver the car on the street and using the stock belt.

overall I like the seat and it does the job well. However, its not perfect.
For me its a little on the small side, I'm 6'1 and 215. its just a very little bit tight right at the butt area. for regular driving or track driving its fine, but I imagine my a$$ would get sore on a road trip.
The shoulders are also a bit narrow, just by the slimmest of margins. Although I am pretty broad shouldered (not bragging or anything here :rolleyes:).
My biggest fitment grip though is the seat back height. The top of the seat is just above the middle of my head. The openings for the shoulder harness are completely covered up with my back, you have to be pretty short to be able to use this seat with a harness.

The biggest negative about this seat is the lumbar support. Its not adjustable and it feels flat our crude. There isn't nearly enough padding on it and this will be the biggest killer for a road trip.

I like the material though. I can't tell if its suede or fake suede, but it looks good and, my favorite part, VERY grippy. This seat does a great job holding my in place. The first track day I did with the stock seat I was constantly thinking about holding myself in place, adjusting myself multiple times a lap. In this thing, I just sit down, spend a couple seconds adjusting myself (grippy material not so good for getting into a good positiong), and I don't think about its at all.

Overall I'm happy with the seat, I just wish the lumbar support was down better.

Buddy club seat rails kinda suck though. the adjustment on them is horrible, not smooth at all, very difficult to make minor changes. Also, you gotta make sure its locked after every slide. Because its hard to move you may think its locked and then under up sliding waaay back or forward (was always back for me). Also the seat belt buckle placement seams to far forward. Everytime I buckle up I pull it back so the belts is on my hips/pelvis and not my legs.

 

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
and for bonus points, here are some of my previous cars (mustang is current daily)



I even do ricer mods on 'merica cars












me in action on my sister's car
 

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I finally got myself a proper seat! Buddy club reclinable, I didn't really want a bucket since I do driver the car on the street and using the stock belt.

overall I like the seat and it does the job well. However, its not perfect.
For me its a little on the small side, I'm 6'1 and 215. its just a very little bit tight right at the butt area. for regular driving or track driving its fine, but I imagine my a$$ would get sore on a road trip.
The shoulders are also a bit narrow, just by the slimmest of margins. Although I am pretty broad shouldered (not bragging or anything here :rolleyes:).
My biggest fitment grip though is the seat back height. The top of the seat is just above the middle of my head. The openings for the shoulder harness are completely covered up with my back, you have to be pretty short to be able to use this seat with a harness.

The biggest negative about this seat is the lumbar support. Its not adjustable and it feels flat our crude. There isn't nearly enough padding on it and this will be the biggest killer for a road trip.

I like the material though. I can't tell if its suede or fake suede, but it looks good and, my favorite part, VERY grippy. This seat does a great job holding my in place. The first track day I did with the stock seat I was constantly thinking about holding myself in place, adjusting myself multiple times a lap. In this thing, I just sit down, spend a couple seconds adjusting myself (grippy material not so good for getting into a good positiong), and I don't think about its at all.

Overall I'm happy with the seat, I just wish the lumbar support was down better.

Buddy club seat rails kinda suck though. the adjustment on them is horrible, not smooth at all, very difficult to make minor changes. Also, you gotta make sure its locked after every slide. Because its hard to move you may think its locked and then under up sliding waaay back or forward (was always back for me). Also the seat belt buckle placement seams to far forward. Everytime I buckle up I pull it back so the belts is on my hips/pelvis and not my legs.


Oh that's hot.
 

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Holy sidewall.
yeah, when I originally bought the tire I wanted it to be a little taller for an affective taller final drive... that turned out to be a mistake. next tire is gonna be shorter

I like the look though, I like a bit of meat in my tire
 

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.♥
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10,295 Posts
It's not bad and you probably have decent ride quality in comparison to some of the stretch guys, but yeah, I don't think you need that much meat even for auto x and track, unless you're going to be hauling ass at 200 mph.
 

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Green Bastard.
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2,749 Posts
Did another track day on the 10th with SCCA Track nights, no pics this time but I have vids!
https://youtu.be/8asY-ks-_6M

Lap 2 is my fastest to date
https://youtu.be/BFtgVKMIKbI

Also had a chance to compare the SuperPro bushings vs stock. It's not exactly an apples to apples review as with the stock bushings I had -1.8 camber and now I have -2.5. These bushings increased my castor from right around .5 to 1.7 and 1.3. It wasn't exactly even stock either though, but I can't find an old alignment sheet to see the exact figures. I also raised the front 1/4 to 1/2" (don't remember exactly) and lowered the rear a 1/4" (remember this one :D)

I'm not sure where the improvement came from, the caster or the camber, but it was a huge difference. The front grips much much better, and it feels better as well, as if the car is struggling a lot less. Now it only understeers when I screw up. Also, corner exit on tight corners seams to have gotten a little worse. I think it's because the inside tire also has more negative camber and therefore a smaller contact patch.

Overall I definitely recommend these if you track your car. Or the PCI or Hardrace option of you prefer the pillowball option.

For autocross I don't really know as I didn't autocross this car with the stock bushings (for the record, I didn't like the RSX in an autox, after autoxing Z's, Evo's, and STi's, fwd flat out sucks IMHO).

For street I don't really recommend it since I didn't feel a difference in street driving (and if there is anyone here that thinks they drive fast enough on the street/twisties to notice a difference, you're out of your mind and you'll be dead by next week if you actually do). But they didn't add any NVH over stock, although keep in mind I have coilovers. If your suspension is stock or just regular springs then it's possible you may notice a difference over stock.
The inside tire isnt as important as the outside tire homie. Outside tire does 70% of the work and the inside does 30% If not less.
 

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The inside tire isnt as important as the outside tire homie. Outside tire does 70% of the work and the inside does 30% If not less.
idk, I didn't have this issue when I was running -1.8 camber
 

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Nice Videos! :shady:

First how do you like the fortune autos? I am about to order some coilovers soon, and looking mostly for road courses on the weekends. And those are on the top of my list atm. Ready to :rain: very soon lol.

Second, how was the SCCA track night experience? I am planning on signing up for the one by me in July. Was it organized well?

Again, awesome vids :fistbump:
 

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Fortune Auto 500 coilovers w/ 10k/14k swift springs reveiw
All the reviews I've read before buying these (mostly reviews for other applications) lead me to believe these would be better than they are. I don't know why I'm so surprised... 99% of all reviews online are people justifying their purchases to themselves...

The spring rates I got turned out to be kind of a worst of both worlds compromise. They're too soft for the track (lots of body roll) and too stiff for the street. They claim that they valve their shocks to your springs... I think that's a lie. Sure they prolly valve for it with their standard springs or maybe if you buy their pricier options, but I think all they did for mine was throw the stuffer springs on there.

On the street, smaller bumps are ok, bigger bumps can be quite harsh. When a bump is big enough to cause occilation, it's never just one compress and rebound (or the other way if it's a dip), it always bounces a few times. The hallmark of a good damper is one cycle of compression and rebound, anything more is wasted motion and unsettles the car

On the track, like I said the springs are too soft, but the dampers still aren't right. There's a pretty good amount of roll, I was expecting a lot less with these springs and the weight of the car. I've only been at The Ridge, which is a new perfectly smooth track. So for the most part these are ok cause there aren't many bumps for the dampers to deal with. There are a few sections where hitting the track curbing is the straighter line (turn 3 if anyone knows the track) and its right at the top of a crest. So it unsettles the right side of the car and gives it a couple bounces... And the turn following is a left hander, so it's the right side of the car that needs to be loaded up. I mean the car is settled by the time it's doing any hard work in the turn, but proper damping would be much nicer and conference inspiring.
The other thing is braking. There's a hard braking zone following a pretty hard dip (going into 8a/8b), the shocks don't do a very good job controlling body motion here. Unless nailed absolutely perfectly the car is all over the place and braking gets pretty squirly. Same thing going into turn 11, you kinda gotta make the curve leading up to it a straight line to brake in, that means hitting the curbing on the right at 10 and on the left right before 11, it's possible to avoid, but it's the fast line. It makes braking much harder/scarier when your car is still bouncing around from the curbs. In my opinion this is the most challenging corner of the course and would benefit the most from some proper dampers.

So this is on a smooth track, if your local track happens to be bumpy you may have more issues... Then again, maybe they handle smaller bumps better when you're going fast...

I got a ride in this track in a Miata with properly sorted suspension (think he had Koni DA's) and a Z28 Camaro. None of the stuff I listed was an issue with either of those. They didn't keep bouncing over curbing, just one compression and rebound back to ride height and the car is settled ready for whatever comes next. Especially the Camaro with its magnetic suspension, that car is insane, there's nothing that can upset it. The guy was going over curbing and braking and turning at the same time and the car just took it, perfectly calm and composed and ready to put down all its power. It's the only car that ever gave me a sore neck from cornering...

I've also had the locking collar (the one to adjust height) come loose twice on me now... I used the flat head and hammer method to tighten it both times. I put blue thread locker on it this last time, hopefully it holds. This only happened on the front, the rears didn't have an issue with this. I'm guessing the RSX's steering arm on the damper has something to do with this. But when my sister had an RSX some years ago, her car didn't have this issue with Buddy club coilovers.

Anyway, back on topic. I don't think the FA are all that great for track use. Maybe if you can actually get them to valve it right, but I'm pretty sure that would involve sending it back to them a few times, I don't know if they charge for revalving (would be really surprised if they didn't) but at the very least you gotta deal with install/uninstall and shipping... By the time you get done with all that you might have spent enough to have just bought some Ohlins or something in that class of damper. I'm pretty sure there's nothing else in the price range that's any better than FA.. Maybe AMR, but there's always like a 6 month wait list for those cause it's a 1 man operation. You can ask Jordan_Dc5 how he likes his...

Edit:
Link to track map
http://www.ridgemotorsportspark.com/track-info/track-map/

Edit:
I also have the radial bearing, I didn't mention it cause I didn't try it without... so I don't have any relevant info other than it sounds like a good idea

Also, just remembered, I had to tighten the top hat nut. I did an autox a couple weeks ago and the left one started making a loud clanking noise on every right turn. Also happened on a hard braking zone once at my last track day (after being tightened) on my first lap, but I haven't heard it since.

Edit:
I also have the radial bearing, I didn't mention it cause I didn't try it without... so I don't have any relevant info other than it sounds like a good idea


Edit 2:
After reading some of the responses in the review thread, I may have come off quite a bit more harsh than intended with this review. Overall they're pretty decent. they ride a bit harder than I like (thats mostly due to the spring rate I have) and have a bit more bounce to them than they should, but overall do a good job on the track. I'd rate them 8/10 for track driving with my limited experience on a smooth track with some relatively small curbing to drive over. I don't know how they would handle a bumpy track or big curbing.

Edit 3:
So I got the revalve done and I can definitely say it was worth having my car on jack stands for 2 weeks.

its still a touch bouncy when going over bumps... in fact I don't think this part changed at all. but the car is much more composed under heavy braking. that floaty feeling is gone.

also, that locking collar seams to work. its been 2 weeks now and a track day, I just checked it and its still tight. another thing to note is that I don't have a washer between the collar and the bottom mount
 

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nice Videos! :shady:

Second, how was the SCCA track night experience? I am planning on signing up for the one by me in July. Was it organized well?

Again, awesome vids :fistbump:
thanks! see post above for FA review.

The SCCA track nights was ok. the Novice class got more track time than anyone else, all their sessions were at least 10 minutes longer. Everybody in the intermediate class belongs in the Novice class. I started in intermediate and came off track 2 times to ask the workers to send me out with more space and I was caught back up to other drivers again with in 30 seconds, and then the session was over.

But they moved me to the advanced class with no issues, once there everything ran smoothly, although the sessions seamed short...

I had a couple of friends come out for their first time on the track, and honestly I think they would have benefited a lot more if they did their first day with a regular track group that has an instructor for you for the whole day (like I did with Hooked on Driving). I went on a ride along with one of them on the last session and he seamed to still be doing lots of the stuff that my instructor got out of me by the second session.

So if you know the track and want a cheap track day, the SCCA track nights are pretty decent. although the amount of track time is roughly eqaul to the price. The track "days" at this track are double the price, but last time I got a little more than double the track time. However, the night part is nice, since you don't have to get up at the crack of dawn, don't have to take a full day off work, its cooler so its easier on your car...

If its gonna be your first time on track, I suggest doing a proper school / novice course. and then after that do the track nights.

But this was here. it could be run entirely differently at your local track. Although from my understanding, the novice program is run more or less the same across the board with SCCA track nights.
 

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Thanks for all of the info :fistbump:

I understand they are not the top of the top, but I am only looking to spend around 1500 for a set so from all of the reviews it seems these are the best. Also in the hunt for me are the BC racing specs. I am also trying to convince myself to add the switft springs and bearings when I do make the order :rain: . My biggest problem is not letting the wife see the bill or the disappearance of the money :shady: . But hey, I guess it is easier to just ask for forgiveness right :rotfl:

I am only looking to track a few times a year, I would love to do that more but at the track near me they do not have many events open to the public other than "track days" which is crap with only two 20 minute sessions :firemad: . So when they really do have all day events I am planning to sign up for those. Also I am planning on signing up for the SCCA track night next week, mainly just because I want to get on the track :vtec:. A friend of a friend (cousin's brother's uncle's sister-inlaw right haha) is actually an instructor out there and has offered to give some advice before going out there and will be out there that night. So I am hoping he can point out some stuff for me and also not let me start bad habits.
 

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you only track a couple times a year, you'd prolly be better off with a little bit softer spring rates... Maybe 8k/12k... Just personal opinion
 

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Doesn't Give A F*ck
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nice
 

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Fat Free
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559 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
got a DC header installed... wrap job isn't the greatest...



cat likes my tools... (vid)
 
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