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· 1320 warrior!
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1,741 Posts
MmmotorNutz said:
Hmmm, interesting thread. All I have to say one NA part alone will not make a world of difference, but a sum of it will. The ITR cams, IM, and reflash combo is way faster than my S cam, S IM and #4 combo...noticeably faster.

I am glad I went the ITR route instead of the Toda route. Looking at all the available dyno numbers and 1/4 times, the performance difference between the two setups does not justify the huge price difference.

We all say we cant really compare dyno numbers, but for most SAE numbers that are close to sea level, they are comparable. As long as the numbers' conditions are not that different, one can see and compare the performance difference between the two setups.

Sorry man but you're wrong. Dyno calibration matters too. I was reading the new sport compact or turbo magazine (forgot the exact one) and they dynoed the same car on 3 different dynojets(all in Cali) and the numbers were all off by atleast 7whp.
Dynos are only made for tuning and to see how your mods are working for you. Not to compare your numbers against your freind's numbers on different dynos. There's also many ways to trick a dyno. Have you seen the smoothing word on a plot before? Well just changing from smoothing 1 to 5 you alter the peak numbers.
Well I'm just saying what I know, some people can explain it better.
 

· 1320 warrior!
Joined
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1,741 Posts
MmmotorNutz said:
Yea yea, I know. Thats why I said "but for most SAE numbers that are close to sea level, they are comparable. As long as the numbers' conditions are not that different, one can see and compare the performance difference between the two setups." ...close enough. If you look at all the dyno numbers on this board, some of them are way off (human error?) and some of them are average (experienced?)...thats why they are called correction factors. Its not exact or precise but close enough.
well, close enough I guess.
But 5-10whp might be nothing but when you start thinking about other factors such as: tire pressure, rim diameter, dyno calibration, etc(all things that can't be SAE corrected) another 5-10whp on top of those already 5-10 can bring it up to 20whp difference.
When in the real world your car can be making the right about the same HP. It's just my opinion take it as you want.
Anyways, I noticed you are making more power now? Was that from just adding a cat-back? What was the whp before? Looks like you have a monster there :thumbsup:
 
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