haha are they?? i know practically nothing about crower's K-series cams besides their specs no dynos nada, toda is proven with the K-series.Rookie said:But you know that they're better than Toda's cams.
Like I said, don't wait for someone else to install the Crowers. You install it yourself and tell everyone else it sucks so no one else gets them. But you know you your mind that that after the install and the dyno that they're better than TODA. :laughing:Rookie said:Or instead of waiting for someone else to get it and install it. You get it first and tell everyone that they suck so that no one else would have them. But you know that they're better than Toda's cams.
MmmotorNutz said:Hmmm, interesting thread. All I have to say one NA part alone will not make a world of difference, but a sum of it will. The ITR cams, IM, and reflash combo is way faster than my S cam, S IM and #4 combo...noticeably faster.
I am glad I went the ITR route instead of the Toda route. Looking at all the available dyno numbers and 1/4 times, the performance difference between the two setups does not justify the huge price difference.
We all say we cant really compare dyno numbers, but for most SAE numbers that are close to sea level, they are comparable. As long as the numbers' conditions are not that different, one can see and compare the performance difference between the two setups.
Yea yea, I know. Thats why I said "but for most SAE numbers that are close to sea level, they are comparable. As long as the numbers' conditions are not that different, one can see and compare the performance difference between the two setups." ...close enough. If you look at all the dyno numbers on this board, some of them are way off (human error?) and some of them are average (experienced?)...thats why they are called correction factors. Its not exact or precise but close enough.EBP-RSX-S said:Sorry man but you're wrong. Dyno calibration matters too. I was reading the new sport compact or turbo magazine (forgot the exact one) and they dynoed the same car on 3 different dynojets(all in Cali) and the numbers were all off by atleast 7whp.
Dynos are only made for tuning and to see how your mods are working for you. Not to compare your numbers against your freind's numbers on different dynos. There's also many ways to trick a dyno. Have you seen the smoothing word on a plot before? Well just changing from smoothing 1 to 5 you alter the peak numbers.
Well I'm just saying what I know, some people can explain it better.
yep. Remember me and you made the exact same hp/tq when we had hondata/icebox and we are both pretty close to the same altitude.MmmotorNutz said:Yea yea, I know. Thats why I said "but for most SAE numbers that are close to sea level, they are comparable. As long as the numbers' conditions are not that different, one can see and compare the performance difference between the two setups." ...close enough. If you look at all the dyno numbers on this board, some of them are way off (human error?) and some of them are average (experienced?)...thats why they are called correction factors. Its not exact or precise but close enough.
well, close enough I guess.MmmotorNutz said:Yea yea, I know. Thats why I said "but for most SAE numbers that are close to sea level, they are comparable. As long as the numbers' conditions are not that different, one can see and compare the performance difference between the two setups." ...close enough. If you look at all the dyno numbers on this board, some of them are way off (human error?) and some of them are average (experienced?)...thats why they are called correction factors. Its not exact or precise but close enough.
EBP-RSX-S said:well, close enough I guess.
But 5-10whp might be nothing but when you start thinking about other factors such as: tire pressure, rim diameter, dyno calibration, etc(all things that can't be SAE corrected) another 5-10whp on top of those already 5-10 can bring it up to 20whp difference.
When in the real world your car can be making the right about the same HP. It's just my opinion take it as you want.
Anyways, I noticed you are making more power now? Was that from just adding a cat-back? What was the whp before? Looks like you have a monster there :thumbsup:
MmmotorNutz said:
uhmmm...click on "these parts" on my previous post. That is the link to my posted graphs. Trrrust me the ITR cams are worth the half a G price tag. Where my old setup peaked and died, the cams came alive. And oh yea, I dont have a VTEC dip now w/ my new setup compared to my old setup.Diggs said:post a graph of your itr dyno against your CAI hondata 4 and dc header dyno. you made 204whp i believe with stock exhaust and the #4 dc set up and now u make 10whp more than that with a full exhaust now and cams itr and reflash. hmmm i think the itr set up is making more power earlier than your first set up but in terms of peak power seems the itr cams might have added 5-7whp accross parts of the top end of the powerband at the very most. it would be interesting to see what your graph would look like with a full exhaust to the #4 set up and then tune it. its starting to make sense that the type r cams are not worth the money. it would be interesting to see someone load the itr set up with stock cams and itr manifold with a full exhaust and look at the power curves.
I was looking at the toda kit and it has camshafts and valve springs. And isnt the itr cam gears and manifold? So technically couldnt you do both? Instead of debating on getting itr or toda cant you just do both?Rookie said:I think TODA makes slightly more power then the ITR setup but is it worth the extra $$$ for TODA when you can get about the same (slightly less) by going the ITR route for cheaper. But you got to love the 9k redline of TODA.
The Jackson Race Header with a high flow cat is your best option to stay smoggable. It will rob you of some power, but not nearly as much as the stock downpipe and cat.TeDudEight said:hmm, maybe someone could help me out even though its kinda a noob question...
What would be the best N/A route to take if you wanted to keep he stock cat or at most get the JRRH and Hi-flow cat? N2? ITR? Stock!?!? lol...
What I would really like is to get a bit over 200 hp to the wheels with retaining the cat. Thanks...
Cams alone do not determine your max redline. Your valve train, stroke, and bore play far more important roles.Method4 said:what is the max redline for ITR CAMS and how much do they cost?
