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Discussion Starter #1
Dang it man. I have read so many posts about which plugs to use and which plugs not to use. Im running a 117 shot which is roughly 100 to the wheels (I believe its like 99.4 or something like that). Anyways Im currently running BKR8EIX and I believe Im having spark blow out at around 8000-8200. So which would be a good plug to run? Ive heard BKR9EIX and also heard to stay away from iridium and platinum plugs. I also heard to go with R5671A-9, but they are non-resistor and I have kpro which is a big no no. So what do you guys think? Please help.

Thanks,
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The tuner suggested them to be gapped at like .032 if I can remember correctly, but then he said try .025 to .026 so im going to try that he also wanted me to try mixing race gas with 93 to see if it fixed the problem. The reason I believe its spark blow out is it happens at high rpms and only for a split second.
 

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Nikon & Nitrous Crew
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I'm running the same plugs as you and spraying a 130bhp(105whp) shot. I didn't change the gap because you're not supposed to on Iridiums.

I'd say you have other issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yeah when i was getting tuned, my tps sensor was kicking on and off really really quickly and it made the car shutter while spraying. Mase fixed it then, but its doing it again. Same feeling happened today when I tried spraying it again and to shift like you stated Bflaker in the pm about the power loss after 8. Looked at my dyno and sure enough MASE let off at 8. Going to get a datalog tomorrow.
 

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Dang it man. I have read so many posts about which plugs to use and which plugs not to use. Im running a 117 shot which is roughly 100 to the wheels (I believe its like 99.4 or something like that). Anyways Im currently running BKR8EIX and I believe Im having spark blow out at around 8000-8200. So which would be a good plug to run? Ive heard BKR9EIX and also heard to stay away from iridium and platinum plugs. I also heard to go with R5671A-9, but they are non-resistor and I have kpro which is a big no no. So what do you guys think? Please help.

Thanks,
Tim
im using BKR9EIX
AND no problems
the gap shouldnt be changed
also i am using OKADA race coils
 

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Got Juice??
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I dont think I've ever heard of anybody having spark blow out with a nitrous application before. I know its probably possible on large shots that increase the cylinder pressure a lot, but I think its more of a turbo application deal since there is actual air being forced into the cylinder. My guess is that its something else, but I could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright guys.. After talking to Bflaker about his plugs and he stated where he shifted at, I went back and looked at my dyno graph and I should be shifting at 8000 rpms. The power just droppes off after that, which explains what I thought was spark blow out. For the staggering feeling I had two days ago I believe it was due to high bottle pressure. It was close to 1450, and today when I did the datalogs it was at 1150 and the car ran great! Heres the datalogs for the heck of it.
 

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Alright guys.. After talking to Bflaker about his plugs and he stated where he shifted at, I went back and looked at my dyno graph and I should be shifting at 8000 rpms. The power just droppes off after that, which explains what I thought was spark blow out. For the staggering feeling I had two days ago I believe it was due to high bottle pressure. It was close to 1450, and today when I did the datalogs it was at 1150 and the car ran great! Heres the datalogs for the heck of it.
in datalog m tune 1 u went 60-100 in 6.5 sec thats comparable to a stock 370z nissan but with a tune u could be faster
 

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tripflips is the shit :)

just and fyi u should all know this and i might just be mis reading but u should not be using iridium or platium plugs while spraying..the ground electrode is way to brittle and cant stand the increased pressure/heat..and it will melt off,break off, or just get super hott and cause uber knocking. i have seen this 3 times at school and it is not a good end result...it is almost 2 am so probally just a stoner ranting but regardless, dont wanna see anyones engines go.. :/
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ur are running way to rich with way to much timing pulled ur missing out on alot of power to be had with a better tune
in datalog m tune 1 u went 60-100 in 6.5 sec thats comparable to a stock 370z nissan but with a tune u could be faster
Thats what me and my buddy were talking about how rich it was. I know the tuner pulled more timing at the initial hit but Im not all into it to know what to look at. I know Im richer than I thought I would be. Also I think he made me a little richer due to my last tune from someone totally different and my plugs were melted for being too lean. So what do you suggest tripflips? Ive had a bad experience with someone else over the internet so Im a little hesitant, but would like to hear what you have to say.

Also the car feels so much faster than I would of thought a stock 370 would do. But butt dynos do lie!!

Thanks for your help and advice.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #14
tripflips is the shit :)

just and fyi u should all know this and i might just be mis reading but u should not be using iridium or platium plugs while spraying..the ground electrode is way to brittle and cant stand the increased pressure/heat..and it will melt off,break off, or just get super hott and cause uber knocking. i have seen this 3 times at school and it is not a good end result...it is almost 2 am so probally just a stoner ranting but regardless, dont wanna see anyones engines go.. :/

From what ive read with kpro thats really the only thing I can run. Also if the plugs are cold enough I shouldnt have to worry too much about them burning up.
 

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Thats what me and my buddy were talking about how rich it was. I know the tuner pulled more timing at the initial hit but Im not all into it to know what to look at. I know Im richer than I thought I would be. Also I think he made me a little richer due to my last tune from someone totally different and my plugs were melted for being too lean. So what do you suggest tripflips? Ive had a bad experience with someone else over the internet so Im a little hesitant, but would like to hear what you have to say.

Also the car feels so much faster than I would of thought a stock 370 would do. But butt dynos do lie!!

Thanks for your help and advice.

Tim
lean it out so k-pro actually reads the fuels it only reads to 11.5 and shows 11.4 if its richer than that so u are way rich all the way across the board u wont pick up much power from leaning it out but if u start adding ignition u will. Add timing till it knocks or stops making more power but yes u have to be careful not to advance it to much
I have run 50 shots with no timing retard and its fine just got to watch the knock level and 100 shots with 3-6 degrees retard depending on fuel


u were running 15 degrees of timing that's 11 to 15 degrees of retard u should start at 20 and go from there advancing till the knock level starts approaching knock threshold the back off a little
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I know with stock o2 sensors they dont show the correct AF, now could this be the case with K-pro vs using the aftermarket o2 on the dyno? The last tune I had was based off of my o2 and the car was way too lean. So Im wondering if my o2 is way off.
 

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I know with stock o2 sensors they dont show the correct AF, now could this be the case with K-pro vs using the aftermarket o2 on the dyno? The last tune I had was based off of my o2 and the car was way too lean. So Im wondering if my o2 is way off.
Huh?

Since when did the stock o2 not read correctly? I know it can't read below 11.5 A/F, but I've never heard of it not reading correctly.

Depending on where the sensor is located, you will get a different reading. The closer to the engine, the richer it reads. The further from the engine, the leaner it reads. Hence the reason a "tailpipe sniffer" that dyno tuners use will read leaner than what the stock o2 sensor says.

I have an AEM wideband in my car, and it reads nearly identical to the stock o2. Both sensors are about 6 inches away from each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Huh?

Since when did the stock o2 not read correctly? I know it can't read below 11.5 A/F, but I've never heard of it not reading correctly.

Depending on where the sensor is located, you will get a different reading. The closer to the engine, the richer it reads. The further from the engine, the leaner it reads. Hence the reason a "tailpipe sniffer" that dyno tuners use will read leaner than what the stock o2 sensor says.

I have an AEM wideband in my car, and it reads nearly identical to the stock o2. Both sensors are about 6 inches away from each other.

According to the tuner the stock o2 are not as accurate. Thats what I was meaning. :dontknow: Im just going by what I was told by a reputable tuner. If you dont mind me asking. Whats ur A/F at WOT? Seems to me that 11.4 is about right from looking as some other threads with guys that are boosted. Also whats ur timing pulled to?
 
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