[Brxxtonn]

Hello everyone!

I just recently picked up a 2006 RSX Type-S and I was curious what brand you guys are running/recommend for coil-overs. I think I am leaning more towards the BC Racing side of things but let me know if you have any experience with them or if you think I should go in a different direction. I am not very familiar with any brands of suspension so thats why I ask. I plan on having it as my weekend car but also to have some fun like maybe bring it to the track one of these days but for now the streets are her home.

 

[oregonRSXracer]

Personally, I am using FEAL 441 coilovers with custom spring rates and valving, but I am changing to a custom MCS system this spring....But it is a dedicated track car.
Consumer-grade coilovers are all about the same, and there are plenty of options out there. I would highly recommend sticking to a reputable brand (nothing off of Wish.com) that has a US phone number and technical & warranty support.

 

[civic_redline]

aspec>mugen>koni yellows with good springs>bc coilers

 

[ebatr24]

Tein Flex Z with the PCI Steering TieRod/Bumpsteer kit and the Rack Slider. Progress Rear sway bar with a stock 05-06 sway bar upfront. Still need to acquire some roll center adjusters to finish the set up. The extras aren't necessary but I am chasing a better handling RSX. My first RSX just had coils and the younger me thought it handled so good, but after owning other vehicles and a lot of other Hondas I've realized just how poor the chassis handles when lowered.

 

[plip_boy]

I'm runnin d2 coils n springs on the rsx.

Had yellow koni on my rsx. To much hassle for little gain.

Use tein flex z on my tsx and integra.

Love them all and I've had no issues with them all

 

[ricedaddy03]

I'm on TEIN Flex Z's also, nothing to complain about. I lowered it pretty conservatively with a teeny tiny bit of camber (3 finger gap in the rear and 2 finger up front) because of how shitty handling gets when really low. I've got Buddy Club RCA's to help with that as well. Running a fat rear sway bar with the stock front bar to try to bring the steering response a little more neutral (there's this one turn on my way home from work that if I gun it I used to understeer like a MF, but now not so much, even broke traction on the rears when I had my bald tires still).

 

[DirtyPearl]

BC ds coilovers with swift springs, they are the digressive version of bc coils, ride pretty good although I don't have anything to compare it to other than stock. I have BCs on my daily for 2 years now, no issues and I beat the shit out of that car driving down dirt roads and shit like that.

 

[Matt Mcmxcv]

Tein Flex Z with the PCI Steering TieRod/Bumpsteer kit and the Rack Slider. Progress Rear sway bar with a stock 05-06 sway bar upfront. Still need to acquire some roll center adjusters to finish the set up. The extras aren't necessary but I am chasing a better handling RSX. My first RSX just had coils and the younger me thought it handled so good, but after owning other vehicles and a lot of other Hondas I've realized just how poor the chassis handles when lowered.

I have the Tein Street Advance Z coil overs and have found my steering to be clunky, alignment is not dialed in, and overall the handling is bad. So I Installed Rear Camber arms & New Top Mounts and Still have had issues So today after reading a million threads I bought the Buddy Club P1 RCA`s (Ball Joints) and Hard Race Reverse Tie Rod Ends. Any advice on what else would help tie together the suspension on a lowered RSX and have it feel clean without plowing?

 

[ebatr24]

I have the Tein Street Advance Z coil overs and have found my steering to be clunky, alignment is not dialed in, and overall the handling is bad. So I Installed Rear Camber arms & New Top Mounts and Still have had issues So today after reading a million threads I bought the Buddy Club P1 RCA`s (Ball Joints) and Hard Race Reverse Tie Rod Ends. Any advice on what else would help tie together the suspension on a lowered RSX and have it feel clean without plowing?

What do you mean by clunky? Do you mean your suspension makes an audible clunk, with your wheels up in the air if you shake the wheels holding from 3 to 9 o clock and it wiggles, it would tell you that your tie rod ends may be bad, can also be a blown shock. If you shake it from 12 to 6 o clock and it wiggles, that may be your ball joint aka roll center adjuster. Since you're planning to replace both keep in mind that the length of your ball joint will have an effect on the ideal placement for the tie rod. With an extended ball joint like the buddy club you may need the tie rods to be angled even lower than you can achieve with the inverted tie rod ends in order to get the best bump steer. If you feel your steering is just sloppy, the rack sliders take a lot of the slop out of it.

 

[Matt Mcmxcv]

What do you mean by clunky? Do you mean your suspension makes an audible clunk, with your wheels up in the air if you shake the wheels holding from 3 to 9 o clock and it wiggles, it would tell you that your tie rod ends may be bad, can also be a blown shock. If you shake it from 12 to 6 o clock and it wiggles, that may be your ball joint aka roll center adjuster. Since you're planning to replace both keep in mind that the length of your ball joint will have an effect on the ideal placement for the tie rod. With an extended ball joint like the buddy club you may need the tie rods to be angled even lower than you can achieve with the inverted tie rod ends in order to get the best bump steer. If you feel your steering is just sloppy, the rack sliders take a lot of the slop out of it.

When i say clunky I mean going lock to lock sitting still or parking I hear an audible clunk that sounds like a spring (boing?) sound. I have yet to lift it and check it 3-9 or 12-6 but just by looking both the ball joints were bad cracked all the way through. Just by looking at the tie rods I can see that they are at an angle of V instead of being parallel. The car plows really tight, and even with a brand new p/s pump and lines the steering wheel is hard to turn.

So is there any way to tell if the BuddyClub P1’s are compatable with the HardRace inverted tie Rod ends? Or are you saying they can be installed together but there might still be issues? Is there a better route?

Is there a "guide" like a tep-by-step to correcting the steering/handling after lowering this chassis?

 

[ebatr24]

When i say clunky I mean going lock to lock sitting still or parking I hear an audible clunk that sounds like a spring (boing?) sound. I have yet to lift it and check it 3-9 or 12-6 but just by looking both the ball joints were bad cracked all the way through. Just by looking at the tie rods I can see that they are at an angle of V instead of being parallel. The car plows really tight, and even with a brand new p/s pump and lines the steering wheel is hard to turn.

So is there any way to tell if the BuddyClub P1’s are compatable with the HardRace inverted tie Rod ends? Or are you saying they can be installed together but there might still be issues? Is there a better route?

Is there a "guide" like a tep-by-step to correcting the steering/handling after lowering this chassis?

Since you have the street advance coilovers, it usually would be that your springs are binding when you turn the wheel. This can happen if you're missing the plastic bearing in the top hat, or sometimes it just needs a bit of grease. Doing the ball joints and tie rod ends can definitely be helpful with correcting some of the steering geometry and bump steer. Even on stock I believe the tie rods don't sit completely straight though. Make sure you get a proper alignment once you do install those parts, they won't fix your clunking but they will improve the steering of the car.

 

[Matt Mcmxcv]

Since you have the street advance coilovers, it usually would be that your springs are binding when you turn the wheel. This can happen if you're missing the plastic bearing in the top hat, or sometimes it just needs a bit of grease. Doing the ball joints and tie rod ends can definitely be helpful with correcting some of the steering geometry and bump steer. Even on stock I believe the tie rods don't sit completely straight though. Make sure you get a proper alignment once you do install those parts, they won't fix your clunking but they will improve the steering of the car.

Best answer I’ve had so far, if you can reach out to me and let me know what You have done to yours I’d love to discuss. But turns out my preload wasn’t set and the spring was loose and would bang the top hat every time I turned. I took it to a local shop that specializes in aftermarket susp mods, they aligned it best they could, put grease in the top hats for me and the sound is gone. It’s def Riding better but still pulling (now to opposite side) and plowing, gonna grab energy bushings because my LCA’s had play in every bushing, ball joints were bad, and tie rods of course are hard angled. Hoping the new balljoints and tie Rod end links will help further.

 

[rsxsiv9]

Since you have the street advance coilovers, it usually would be that your springs are binding when you turn the wheel. This can happen if you're missing the plastic bearing in the top hat, or sometimes it just needs a bit of grease. Doing the ball joints and tie rod ends can definitely be helpful with correcting some of the steering geometry and bump steer. Even on stock I believe the tie rods don't sit completely straight though. Make sure you get a proper alignment once you do install those parts, they won't fix your clunking but they will improve the steering of the car.

I appreciate all your knowledge. I have a 02 type S, and I would like to improve the ride quality. I feel every bump, and have to grip the wheel tight to feel comfortable on bumpy roads at high speeds. What can I do besides new tires to improve bumpiness, and steering stability without lowering?

 

[Steven Crellin]

I appreciate all your knowledge. I have a 02 type S, and I would like to improve the ride quality. I feel every bump, and have to grip the wheel tight to feel comfortable on bumpy roads at high speeds. What can I do besides new tires to improve bumpiness, and steering stability without lowering?

Here is what I had on my car: Tein Basis Z coilovers, Progress sway bars 27mm front 24mm rear w/ adjustable endlinks, Rear Camber kit, SHG steering rack slider, Buddy Club Roll Center Adjusters, 0857 inverted tie rod ends, and a good alignment.
I hate to plug my own post but I think it will help alot of people on this thread. The KEY to correcting your vague/imprecise aftermarket...

 

[rsxsiv9]

Here is what I had on my car: Tein Basis Z coilovers, Progress sway bars 27mm front 24mm rear w/ adjustable endlinks, Rear Camber kit, SHG steering rack slider, Buddy Club Roll Center Adjusters, 0857 inverted tie rod ends, and a good alignment.
I hate to plug my own post but I think it will help alot of people on this thread. The KEY to correcting your vague/imprecise aftermarket...

I appreciate the information man!

 

[rsxsiv9]

Here is what I had on my car: Tein Basis Z coilovers, Progress sway bars 27mm front 24mm rear w/ adjustable endlinks, Rear Camber kit, SHG steering rack slider, Buddy Club Roll Center Adjusters, 0857 inverted tie rod ends, and a good alignment.
I hate to plug my own post but I think it will help alot of people on this thread. The KEY to correcting your vague/imprecise aftermarket...

Keep plugging your post. I'm learning a lot from it! I just wanted to know if you'd recommend anything off your list without actually lowering my car?