Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
spicy
Joined
·
10,841 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(just for references sake, I lazily cleaned my IACV w/o disconnecting the electronic portion of the valve -didn't have the special security bit-... presented some problems when I went to start the car up...

SO, last night, I finally put my S IAC back in [after trying a base one] and my car actually fired up.)

This is a PM I sent to daniel (palmerblock) a few hours after completing the swap back...

"drove the car, boosted it, it holds fine, even got boost cut at 5500 in 2nd gear...

drove it to in-n-out with no problems.. then drove it to the basketball court (another 3 miles away).. let it sit for about 1.5-2hrs.. started the car up fine, went down the hill.. noticed the car was "jerking" in 5th gear when i let off the throttle and when i got on the throttle partially.....

got to the light, put it in neutral.. light turned green, shoved it into 2nd, matched, and the car BOGGED massively.. but i got it rolling...

roll to the next light and started off in first (making a right turn on a red).. car bogged out and just died. couldnt get it started, but kevin did while i was looking under the hood for a possible explanation.. pumped the throttle while cranking..

i really need to get to work (30 miles away) im kinda running out of ideas about what it can be.. im goign to wake up around 9 tomorrow, and drive the car for about 2 hours straight near my house to see if i can replicate the problem..."

---------------------------------- -----------------------

so fastforward to today (this afternoon). I went to crank the car up, no go. I did as daneil suggested and played around with my crank fuel, I set it at -20%, -10%, all the same, it had no affect.

Pulled off the intercooler piping, and the car fired up immediately. put the piping back on and tightened the clamp, car had no hesitation/bogging when I did this.

Drove around today, boosted fine, I wanted to put some miles on the car since the battery was probably pretty dead from cranking it over numerous times over the 5 days it's been immobile.. killed the car twice while going to target ,home depot, and trader joes to pick up shit.

while driving home from trader joes, I was in 6th gear cruisin up to a light (maybe around 2,500 rpms or so), and the car starts to jerk moderatly (exactly what it did last night before it died) so I knew what was about to happen. put the car in neutral, coasted up to the light, slowly pressed the throttle, and sure enough the car died out.

pulled off to the side of the road, waited a little, cranked it over, and it stumbled back to life.. but barely. drove the car home and it starts up just fine.
----------------------- ----------------------
A few notes..

at idle,
TPS = 1%
map = -19.9-20.5~ psi

at full throttle
TPS = 102%
map reads normally and car boosts just fine.

I was worried (also was a stupid ass and carefully sprayed gasket remover on the TB w/o removing sensors.. WHOOPS!) that somehow gasket remover wound up on the TPS or possibly got into the vac line for the map sensor, but both are reading fine. there's the EVAP solenoid on the TB, but I'm not really sure that would cause my car to die out... the only OTHER explanation is my original theory that I really fucked up my IACV and i need to replace it with another one.

One interesting thing to note though is that when we swapped out the base IAC with the type S, the electronic portion of the valve had the same part #, in the Acura directory it states a different part # but that could possibly be because the coolant nipple is straight on the base as opposed to curved on the S...

any ideas on what else it can be?

Also, If I pull off the T'd out brake booster line (going to my boost control solenoid and BOV), the car will crank over. It basically seems that the motor is not getting enough AIR to fire up.. which would be the cause of a faulty IAC right?

no restrictions in my IC piping obviously.. so it's either that or a multitude of problems...

IDEAS PLEASE!!!!!!!
 

·
spicy
Joined
·
10,841 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
on a better note, I can pull off a TB in 11 minutes. and my TPS has always been at 1% before I pulled off the IAC initially (and my wonderful problems started.)
 

·
spicy
Joined
·
10,841 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
supertuner said:
the way it jerks when you are slowing down sounds like an ignition issue, not fuel.
it's not a fuel delivery issue, i've uploaded the backup *original* tuned fuel map from shawn church. and this does NOT happen every time I decel.
 

·
spicy
Joined
·
10,841 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
to replicate the "jerking" im getting is almost like cranking over your car with the map sensor unplugged... except it happens when I'm DRIVING. x_x
 

·
spicy
Joined
·
10,841 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I tried desperately, but unfortunately the laptop was in the hatch when it happened. I'm curious to figure out what th ehell it was.. it happened minorly on the final leg back home and I had the laptop plugged in, but apparently my sister doesnt know how to press f9 under pressure when im yelling "f9 f9 f9" rapidly on the top of my lungs.
 

·
spicy
Joined
·
10,841 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I got some datalogs just now.
http://host210.ipowerweb.com/~lenawire/boredfast/cardied.kdl

in that datalog, I was cruisin along in my community, car started to jerk a little, ON throttle response from 1st gear was SO terrible, imagine teaching a 16yo how to drive stick, and that's how it felt... car died out when i put it in neutral making a right turn. you can clearly see where my car died when you see the A/F curve flatline.

---------------------------

So I cranked over the car again, and made a u-turn going back home.. car didn't die on the way back (literally 30 sec drive back to my house) but it drove like SHIT.
-------------------------

http://host210.ipowerweb.com/~lenawire/boredfast/cardied2.kdl

I also want to note that at the same time I:

1) changed my oil
2) did the hondata coolant bypass (which i'm thinking COULD be the problem.. I'm getting some extra coolant lines tomorrow @ autozone and i'll put it back to stock.. this could help very much)
3) cleaning IACV.


**another thing to notice for those viewing the datalogs, why the FUCK does my fuel status switch so much from OPEN-Driving (when the car shouldnt even be in open loop-driving) and Closed and back to Open- Cold (as in, COLD start up?? car is already up to temp.. wtf?!)
 

·
I love Audi Junkie!!!
Joined
·
3,804 Posts
boredfast said:
I got some datalogs just now.
http://host210.ipowerweb.com/~lenawire/boredfast/cardied.kdl

in that datalog, I was cruisin along in my community, car started to jerk a little, ON throttle response from 1st gear was SO terrible, imagine teaching a 16yo how to drive stick, and that's how it felt... car died out when i put it in neutral making a right turn. you can clearly see where my car died when you see the A/F curve flatline.

---------------------------

So I cranked over the car again, and made a u-turn going back home.. car didn't die on the way back (literally 30 sec drive back to my house) but it drove like SHIT.
-------------------------

http://host210.ipowerweb.com/~lenawire/boredfast/cardied2.kdl

I also want to note that at the same time I:

1) changed my oil
2) did the hondata coolant bypass (which i'm thinking COULD be the problem.. I'm getting some extra coolant lines tomorrow @ autozone and i'll put it back to stock.. this could help very much)
3) cleaning IACV.


**another thing to notice for those viewing the datalogs, why the FUCK does my fuel status switch so much from OPEN-Driving (when the car shouldnt even be in open loop-driving) and Closed and back to Open- Cold (as in, COLD start up?? car is already up to temp.. wtf?!)
Set your car to open loop, and drive around normally.. See if that does away with the problem.. If so.. Sounds to me like you have some part throttle tuning to do, to stop the fuel trim from F-ing with your tune. My car will buck like you described, when I load the base tune in, till I do some low and part throttle tuning, to smooth the transition between open and closed loop.

-JMS
 

·
Master Mechanic/Tuner
Joined
·
5,361 Posts
also that bucking comes from running 750's
they need to run a lil richer in certian rpm vs. map ranges than the stock ones.
14.7:1 on 750's will net bucking in certian areas....especially down low
this can be tuned out with partial throttle street tuning
your main issue here is fuel delivery during normal driving

when i get a change to work on your car again...im thinking of boostin by gear to keep u from overboosing in 2nd based on your boost curve ur setup makes with that soleniod
 

·
spicy
Joined
·
10,841 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks guys, that's the best input i've had so far. I'll re-upload the calibration back into the car, set the car on open loop and pray to god I dont crash into someone if my car decides to shut off again.

the weird thing is that this has never been a problem before.. the bucking only happened in low gears, i was in 6th gear, 0% TPS, and it BUCKED pretty violently for the gear.

i really wish I could get a video of it..... it's some scary shit when you know your engine is about to die when you're going 40 mph.
 

·
spicy
Joined
·
10,841 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
an update.

this morning I took the advice of JMshipp2, and went ahead and uploaded a fresh calibration with the parameters set on open loop. Car fired up immediately, but had a disgustingly rich idle (much like trying to upload a calibration into the car the while having the throttle on.) smoking everywhere, stunk up my street. I let it idle for maybe 15 seconds.

shut off the car, uploaded the calibration again, but with closed loop enabled. Car fired up and went through it's normal "warm-up" phase. it was still minorly misfiring and sputtering around. idle was drastically improved.

I took the advice of kevin ksmatic and undid my coolant bypass that I had performed at the same time.. granted this took most of the day because no autozone seemed to carry the correct sized line. after replacing the bypass, I fired the car up, and she seemed to like it a lot. NO idea why.

drove the car back to autozone, to the bball court, and around town just to see if she would act up again... no real evidence that anything was wrong seemed to show up.

didn't even have the laptop on me, and I'm pretty confident she's running well. i'll even venture out 30 miles to work tomorrow... let's hope nobody hears back from this thread again.

my advice to those out there... perform only one modification/maintenece order at a time.. therefore you dont have to do this horrible process of elimination bullshit.

to be honest, I don't really see how my car was running so shittily with this bypass.
 

·
I love Audi Junkie!!!
Joined
·
3,804 Posts
boredfast said:
an update.

this morning I took the advice of JMshipp2, and went ahead and uploaded a fresh calibration with the parameters set on open loop. Car fired up immediately, but had a disgustingly rich idle (much like trying to upload a calibration into the car the while having the throttle on.) smoking everywhere, stunk up my street. I let it idle for maybe 15 seconds.

shut off the car, uploaded the calibration again, but with closed loop enabled. Car fired up and went through it's normal "warm-up" phase. it was still minorly misfiring and sputtering around. idle was drastically improved.

I took the advice of kevin ksmatic and undid my coolant bypass that I had performed at the same time.. granted this took most of the day because no autozone seemed to carry the correct sized line. after replacing the bypass, I fired the car up, and she seemed to like it a lot. NO idea why.

drove the car back to autozone, to the bball court, and around town just to see if she would act up again... no real evidence that anything was wrong seemed to show up.

didn't even have the laptop on me, and I'm pretty confident she's running well. i'll even venture out 30 miles to work tomorrow... let's hope nobody hears back from this thread again.

my advice to those out there... perform only one modification/maintenece order at a time.. therefore you dont have to do this horrible process of elimination bullshit.

to be honest, I don't really see how my car was running so shittily with this bypass.
This is a huge indicator that you need to do some idle/low throttle/mid throttle tuning.

If you leave the closed loop function to adjust your fuel trim at idle/part throttle, then the rest of your operating maps will be lean, by at least the amount of trim the car is applying at idle, low throttle.

You really need to do some street tuning, or else you will continue to have issues.

The starting issue, came from warm start ups, with fuel washed (flooded) spark plags... Your car is just plain too rich at idle/part throttle. YOU HAVE TO CHANGE THIS, or many more ugly little issues will rear their ugly head in short time.

Good luck,
JMS
 

·
spicy
Joined
·
10,841 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
probably, this is the cali that shawn church sent me, I doubt there is any partial throttle tuning done to it at all...

doing something like -40% cranking fuel seemed to have no effect.

but thanks for the input, car seems to run fine now. :dontknow:

my AFRs stay at 11.5-11.7 at idle regardless of what my target idle lambda value is.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top