WTB rear sway for 02-04 Type S
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I just bought the 24mm Progress kit from elite. not bad pricing.
www.jdmohiodirect.com has the 22mm Type R bar for $149. just back in stock and 1 left. it has the bushings and brackets and endlinks. better hurry
They have a nice line up! Lots of parts out of stock. I ended up ordering some energy rear sway bushings. Should help my sway handle better with brand new bushings!
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The OEM manual will tell you to position a jack under the rear knuckle and raise to compress/load the suspension then tighten and TQ the endlinks. Then drive for 5 mins and re-TQ.
Just make sure not to TQ the endlinks until after the car squats down or the coilovers have been compressed. The postion of the endlinks should be vertical as possible, then tighten. The service manual does not directly say this, the Progress instructions say this. The rear sway bar bracket flange bolts are 16lbf-ft (8x18) PN# (95701-08018-08). The "top" endlink (10mm) self-lock nuts are 29lbf-ft if you remove them, service manual suggests replacing them if removed. self-lock (10mm) PN# (90212-SA5-003). The "bottom" endlink nut is different, costs more too $2.00 (10mm) PN# (90002-S10-000), not listed as a self-lock.
I went with Hotchicks endlinks on 05-06 Type S front 26.4mm and rear 21mm. They are stout pieces.
Check back with jdmohiodirect they update with stock often, they owner is nice too. He takes requests and layaway payments.
Just make sure not to TQ the endlinks until after the car squats down or the coilovers have been compressed. The postion of the endlinks should be vertical as possible, then tighten. The service manual does not directly say this, the Progress instructions say this. The rear sway bar bracket flange bolts are 16lbf-ft (8x18) PN# (95701-08018-08). The "top" endlink (10mm) self-lock nuts are 29lbf-ft if you remove them, service manual suggests replacing them if removed. self-lock (10mm) PN# (90212-SA5-003). The "bottom" endlink nut is different, costs more too $2.00 (10mm) PN# (90002-S10-000), not listed as a self-lock.
I went with Hotchicks endlinks on 05-06 Type S front 26.4mm and rear 21mm. They are stout pieces.
Check back with jdmohiodirect they update with stock often, they owner is nice too. He takes requests and layaway payments.
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643 Posts
the oem endlinks are not performace rated IMO... If you have your coilovers dialed in and do not feel the car is too ruff, do the suspension bushings. What I am doing is buying an extra set of rear trailing arms and front control arms and insert race bushings in those. That way I can swao them back in forth having a street set up and an aggressive spherical bearing set up that will not be track dedicated.
Nice, that's a good way of doing it. I just need a street setup for now since I daily my RSX for work and plan to just autocross at the moment. My goal is to track my car. I'm only on lowering struts and springs. My setup is pretty mild but I may just do the bushings anyway and then get lower control arms as well.
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I have the Energy Suspension MAster bushing kit still in the box. I have Hardrace rear hard rubber knuckle bushings in the box. I am waiting until I have my coilovers adjusted and have determined if I need to increase the springs - then I will install the suspension bushings and kind of determine which ones would be best where or if spherical bearings would be a better option in certain areas. This was suggested to me by a 30 plus years ASE master tech and level 4 instructor for NASA/SCCA.
What I do not like about the front sway bar bushings in the Progress kit is they do not fit into the subframe mount points b/c they backside or bottom is flat unlike the OEM.So I am going to put a solid piece of aluminum or steel behind the bushing against the subframe. I have been thinking about welding a stiffener plate on the front subframe at the sway bar bushing location befoe the engine goes back in.
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