The manual has several typos, this being one of them. The lower torque rating is for the A3. I have always and will continue to use anti-seize on the spark plugs. The theory is that the lubricant will increase the chances of stripping or stretching the threads in the head. I don’t know anyone that’s ever actually done so, but I do know people who have broken their spark plugs in the head because they were seized. All you need is a little dab at the beginning of the threads and a good torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench, thread them by hand and give them a quarter turn. That's roughly where you should be at.

As for bumping old threads, it's preferred that you do that over starting a new thread for the same exact topic.

 

Hey, thanks for the reply.

So I should be going for about 18 ft lbs? (probably 17 ft lbs if I apply some anti-seize?

And noted about the old thread vs creating new topics.

 

17.8ft*lbs since you aint gonna stop asking till it is said. I dont torque anything just do it all by feel but my feel be pretty damn accurate. Correction I torque lug nuts to 80ft*lbs everytime.

 

I ended up doing hand tight + quarter turn, probably a little less than 17 ft lbs, with some anti-seize rubbed onto the threads
🤷‍♂️

 

Just remember when using anti-seize you need to go on the heavier side of the torque ratings 😉 for future. Opposite for red loctite on lighter side of torque rating if giving in a range.

 

Not sure if was joking or not being the 😂 face at the end of the red loctite part of comment but with anti seize you generally want to go on the lower side of using a torque wrench because it lubes threads slightly giving you sort of a false reading or you’re actually torquing the bolt more than the torque wrench shows. Same when using loctite. (Of course never use loctite on spark plug threads) Anyway ya never know, a newbie may read something and follow so figure id add just in case.

 

I literally just hand tightened mine using a ratchet with a little snug, after a turbo build for a few weeks, no concerns.

 

I suppose "to each their own"... However, Threaded parts exposed to higher operating temperatures not TQ'd to spec runs the risk of backing out or getting stuck. The heat cycles of the engine does interesting things to threaded parts. Aluminum is soft and the threads are easily damaged is another reason to consider following the service manual.

Again no disrespect to any one on this thread.