I'm checking the voltage at the VVT solenoid with key on and its only 4 volts. Is that normal or should it be 12 volts? The pressure sensor is 12 volts but the other one only 4 volts. In addition I tried to test the VVT by grounding it on my battery and using a test lead to the positive one the solenoid. should I be hearing a clicking from the plunger when I put power to it? It does nothing at all. I was needing to find out if the wiring is bad to it or the solenoid is bad. They are cheap so I'm going to order one today and replace it but I'm still concerned about the voltage.
Chadillac71!
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It sounds like you’ve been through quite an ordeal with your RSX, and you’re now focused on the VVT (Variable Valve Timing) solenoid as a potential source of your issues. Let’s break down your concerns and what you can do:
1. VVT Solenoid Voltage:
1. VVT Solenoid Voltage:
- Normal Voltage: Typically, the VVT solenoid should receive around 12 volts when the engine control unit (ECU) activates it. If you’re only seeing 4 volts with the key on, that’s definitely lower than expected and could indicate an issue.
- Possible Causes:The low voltage could be due to several reasons, including:
- A faulty wiring connection or a corroded connector.
- A failing VVT solenoid.
- An issue with the ECU or the power supply to the solenoid.
- Click Test: When you apply 12 volts directly to the solenoid (as you did by grounding it and using a test lead to the positive terminal), you should hear a clicking sound as the plunger inside moves. If you don’t hear anything, the solenoid could be stuck or faulty.
- Next Steps: Since the solenoid isn’t responding when you apply power directly, it’s a good idea to replace it, especially since they’re relatively inexpensive. However, also ensure the wiring and connectors are in good shape, as those could be the root cause of the voltage drop.
- Potential Water Intrusion: Even though you were careful during the power wash, it’s possible that some water or moisture might have found its way into sensitive areas, leading to electrical gremlins.
- Sensor Replacements:You’ve already replaced several sensors (MAP, IAT, IAC, TP, front O2), but the continued rough idle and vibration might suggest either:
- A lingering electrical issue, possibly related to the VVT system or another component that got wet.
- A mechanical issue that developed after the power wash or is unrelated to it but coincidentally emerged at the same time.
- Cylinder 3 Misfire:The misfire on cylinder 3, combined with the vibration at idle, could be related to a few things:
- A bad ignition coil or spark plug.
- An issue with fuel delivery (e.g., a clogged injector).
- An ongoing problem with the VVT system, which might cause timing issues affecting engine smoothness.
- Replace the VVT Solenoid: Go ahead with replacing the VVT solenoid as planned. After replacement, clear any codes and see if the symptoms improve.
- Check Wiring: Carefully inspect all wiring and connectors, especially those related to the VVT solenoid and cylinder 3. Look for any signs of corrosion, damage, or loose connections.
- Dealership Diagnostic: If replacing the VVT solenoid doesn’t resolve the issue, taking the car to the Acura dealership for a thorough diagnostic is a wise move. They’ll have the specialized equipment and expertise to pinpoint the problem, especially if it’s something more complex like a failing ECU or an intermittent electrical issue.
- Oil and Grease Cleanup: The oil and grease accumulation from the power steering leak might have contributed to some of these issues, particularly if it got into connectors or onto sensors. Ensure that all areas are cleaned thoroughly, and check for any residual buildup that could cause future problems.
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When replacing fuel injectors for a stock Acura RSX base model, it's essential to choose injectors that match the original specifications to avoid issues like over-fueling, which can flood the engine and cause other performance problems. Here are some reliable aftermarket options that are generally well-regarded and typically cost less than $300;
1. DeatschWerks Fuel Injectors:
- Model: DeatschWerks offers injectors that are direct-fit replacements for many Honda/Acura models, including the RSX.
- Flow Rate: DeatschWerks injectors are flow-matched to ensure consistent fuel delivery.
- Price Range: Typically around $250-$300 for a set of four.
- Pros: Known for high-quality and reliability, often considered an excellent choice for both stock and mildly modified engines.
- Model: Bosch makes high-quality OEM-equivalent fuel injectors that are compatible with the RSX.
- Price Range: Around $150-$250 for a set of four.
- Pros: Bosch is a reputable brand with a long history of providing OEM parts, so their injectors are reliable and well-suited for stock applications.
- Model: OEM remanufactured injectors are another good option. These are original injectors that have been professionally cleaned, tested, and restored to factory specs.
- Price Range: Typically around $200-$250 for a set of four.
- Pros: You get the benefit of OEM quality at a lower price, with the assurance that the injectors meet factory standards.
- Model: Standard Motor Products is another brand that provides reliable, OEM-equivalent injectors.
- Price Range: Around $150-$220 for a set of four.
- Pros: Known for producing dependable aftermarket parts that work well in stock vehicles.
- Model: RC Engineering injectors are known for their precision and reliability.
- Price Range: Typically $250-$300 for a set of four.
- Pros: These injectors are often used in both stock and performance applications and are flow-matched for consistent performance.
- Flow Rate: Make sure the flow rate of the aftermarket injectors matches the stock specifications (usually around 240cc for a base RSX). Higher flow rates can cause over-fueling if the ECU isn’t tuned for them.
- Warranty and Support: Choose a brand that offers good customer support and a warranty, as this can save you from potential issues down the road.
- Reviews: Check customer reviews and ratings, especially from those who own a similar vehicle, to ensure that the injectors perform well in stock applications.
For a stock Acura RSX base model, DeatschWerks, Bosch, and Standard Motor Products injectors are all solid aftermarket choices under $300. If you prefer OEM quality but want to save some money, remanufactured OEM injectors could be a good option. Make sure to verify the flow rate and compatibility before purchasing to ensure they meet your vehicle’s needs.
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Comparing Idle Speeds: Classic Muscle Cars vs. Modern Imports
When you're used to working on '60s and '70s muscle cars like classic Chevrolets, transitioning to a modern import like the Acura RSX can feel quite different—especially when it comes to idle speed.
Idle Speed Differences:
- Classic Muscle Cars: Muscle cars from the '60s and '70s typically had carbureted engines with manual adjustments for idle speed. These cars often idled at higher RPMs, around 800-1000 RPM or more, depending on the setup, camshaft, and tuning. The idle was adjusted by turning a screw on the carburetor, and a slightly higher idle was often used to ensure smooth running, especially with performance cams.
- Modern Imports (RSX): In contrast, modern vehicles like the Acura RSX are equipped with electronic fuel injection and drive-by-wire throttle control, which are managed by the ECU (Engine Control Unit). The idle speed for the RSX is typically lower, around 700-750 RPM when the engine is warmed up. This lower idle is designed for fuel efficiency and smooth operation, characteristics of modern engines. The idle speed is automatically controlled by the ECU, with no manual adjustment like on older carbureted engines.
- Manual vs. Electronic Adjustment: On classic muscle cars, adjusting the idle was as simple as turning a screw on the carburetor. With the RSX, there's no such manual adjustment. The idle speed is controlled electronically, and any adjustments would need to be done via the ECU, usually with specialized tuning software.
While a stock RSX should idle smoothly at around 720 RPM, there are situations where the car might struggle to maintain this idle speed or where a higher idle might be necessary:
- Vacuum Leaks: A vacuum leak can cause the engine to idle poorly or stall, as it disrupts the air/fuel mixture. If the RSX isn't running well at its normal idle, checking for vacuum leaks is a good starting point. *Always check the air filter as well, it never hurts to be thorough in checking everything when an unknown culprit is causing an issue!
- Dirty Throttle Body or IACV (Idle Air Control Valve): A dirty throttle body or a malfunctioning IACV can also lead to poor idle quality. Cleaning these components can often restore smooth idle operation. *See Additional Tips Below!
- Aftermarket Modifications: If the RSX has been modified with aftermarket parts like a performance camshaft, intake, or exhaust, the engine may require a slightly higher idle to run smoothly. Performance cams, in particular, can cause a rough idle if the idle speed is too low, similar to the lopey idle of old muscle cars.
- Sensor Issues: Faulty sensors (such as the O2 sensor, MAP sensor, or MAF sensor) can cause the ECU to set an incorrect idle speed. Running diagnostics to check for any sensor issues can help pinpoint the problem. *See Additional Tips Below!
- Tuning Software: If you find that the RSX needs a higher idle due to modifications or other issues, you’ll need to use ECU tuning software like Hondata KPro or a similar system to adjust the idle speed. This should be done carefully, as setting the idle too high can affect fuel economy and emissions.
- Temporary Fixes: If you're troubleshooting an issue that causes the idle to dip too low or stall, temporarily increasing the idle through tuning software might help the engine run more smoothly until the underlying issue is resolved.
For a stock Acura RSX, an idle speed around 720 RPM is typical and should provide smooth operation. However, if the car doesn’t run well at this idle or requires a higher idle due to specific issues or modifications, addressing potential causes like vacuum leaks, dirty components, or sensor problems is crucial. If necessary, idle adjustments can be made through tuning software, but this should be done carefully to ensure the engine runs efficiently and reliably.
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Additional Tips:
(Checking, cleaning, and/or replacing these may fix an idle/won't run as it should issue. There should be videos for these on Youtube, showing the locations and how to clean.)
Dirty Throttle Body or IACV (Idle Air Control Valve):
A dirty throttle body or a malfunctioning IACV can also lead to poor idle quality. Cleaning these components can often restore smooth idle operation.
- How to Check and Clean the Throttle Body:
- Locate the Throttle Body: The throttle body is usually located between the air intake and the intake manifold. On the RSX, it’s easily accessible once you remove the air intake hose.
- Inspect for Dirt and Carbon Build-up: With the air intake hose removed, inspect the inside of the throttle body for carbon build-up or dirt around the throttle plate.
- Clean the Throttle Body:
- Use a throttle body cleaner and a soft brush or cloth. Spray the cleaner on the dirty areas, especially around the throttle plate, and gently scrub away the carbon deposits.
- Open the throttle plate manually to clean the areas behind it as well.
- Wipe away any excess cleaner and residue with a clean cloth.
- Reassemble: Once clean, reattach the air intake hose and any sensors or connections you removed. *You can purchase colored electrical tape, and add to your connectors, thereby easily knowing what to connections are correct (and a permanent marker to number/letter more than one of the same color tape. You may not have any on hand this time so a permanent marker can be used to write on the edges of the connector A, B, C, 1, 2, 3 labels etc).
- How to Check and Clean the IACV:
- Locate the IACV: The Idle Air Control Valve is usually located on or near the throttle body. It controls the amount of air bypassing the throttle plate to regulate idle speed.
- Remove the IACV: Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the screws or bolts holding the IACV in place.
- Inspect the IACV: Check the IACV for carbon build-up or dirt that might be restricting airflow or causing it to stick.
- Clean the IACV:
- Use a throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner to clean the valve and its passages. Spray the cleaner into the valve and use a brush if necessary to remove stubborn deposits.
- Let the cleaner sit for a few minutes, then rinse with a bit more cleaner and shake out any excess liquid.
- Reinstall the IACV: Once clean and dry, reattach the IACV to the throttle body, reconnect the electrical connector, and reassemble any other components you removed.
Faulty sensors (such as the O2 sensor, MAP sensor, or MAF sensor) can cause the ECU to set an incorrect idle speed. Running diagnostics to check for any sensor issues can help pinpoint the problem.
- How to Check and Test Sensors:
- Use an OBD-II Scanner:Start by connecting an OBD-II scanner to your vehicle’s diagnostic port to check for any trouble codes related to the sensors.
- O2 Sensor: Look for codes related to the oxygen sensors (e.g., P0131, P0132) that indicate whether the sensors are reading incorrectly.
- MAP Sensor: Codes like P0106 or P0107 can indicate issues with the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor.
- MAF Sensor: Look for codes such as P0101 or P0102 that might point to problems with the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor.
- Test the Sensors:
- O2 Sensor: Using a multimeter, you can check the O2 sensor's output voltage. It should vary as the engine runs, typically between 0.1V and 0.9V. If the readings are static or out of this range, the sensor may be faulty.
- MAP Sensor: Check the MAP sensor's output voltage or pressure readings against manufacturer specifications. You can also test it by applying vacuum and checking for corresponding changes in the output voltage.
- MAF Sensor: Clean the MAF sensor using a MAF sensor cleaner spray. Spray the sensor elements gently without touching them, let it dry, and reinstall. You can test the MAF sensor with a multimeter or scan tool to ensure it's reading airflow correctly.
- Use an OBD-II Scanner:Start by connecting an OBD-II scanner to your vehicle’s diagnostic port to check for any trouble codes related to the sensors.
- Cleaning and Replacing Sensors:
- Cleaning Sensors:
- MAF Sensor: Use a MAF sensor cleaner to carefully clean the sensor elements. Do not use carb cleaner or other harsh chemicals, as they can damage the sensor.
- MAP and O2 Sensors: Typically, these sensors are not cleaned but replaced if faulty.
- Replacing Faulty Sensors: If any sensor is found to be faulty, it’s best to replace it with a high-quality or OEM part to ensure proper function and compatibility with your vehicle’s ECU.
- Cleaning Sensors:
Regular maintenance, including cleaning the throttle body and IACV and checking sensors, can help ensure that your RSX idles smoothly and runs efficiently. If these components are dirty or faulty, addressing them can resolve many common idle issues and restore optimal performance.
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I'm just glad the posts were useful to you! I also think mfarmakas17 had a good point about throwing money at it, but it seemed like you had already started down this path of fixing things as you went along (or as they broke/occurred, which seems to be more the norm for us all, ha!) so a little help along the way, can go a long way
.*I didn't know about this either "There’s an idle re-learn procedure you’re supposed to do whenever you reset the ecu or disconnect the battery" which I should have at least considered... since I have a BMW (never again!) with similar processes/resets (Thanks mfarmakas17!).
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123 Posts
All the credit goes to mfarmakas17 above ^ it was his comment that reminded me!
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