is everyone else having a trouble seeing the initial post?

edit: n/m working now

 

it could just be a bad pulley...

 

or the tensioner. shouldn't be a hard fix

 

My question is: I've been told the belt looks healthy (no cracks, no colour). How do I tell if my belt is overstretched or not?

I've looked at the OEM parts sites and they dont seem to carry the auto-tensioner. Where is a reputable place to buy one? What are some reputable brands? I see dayco and gates as common ones. Does someone have the exact part number?

Is it as simple as outlined in the FSM? I had a friend looked at it and he suggested I need to remove the motor mount to access the tensioner...that worries me a bit if true.

I have zero mechanical skills but I want to DIY this one.

Thanks.

-Go ahead and replace the belt...it's cheap and will eliminate problems such as stretched belt or belt squeal. You'll have to remove the belt to do this work anyways

-Dayco and gates are good aftermarket brands...rockauto.com is a good source for parts

-Removal and install is indeed simple but you're working in a cramped area and the motor mount bolt/nut can be difficult to break free. Try breaking free the motor mount first...if you can, go ahead and finish the rest....if it gives you trouble and you think you'll round off the nut/bolt, stop and take it to a shop.

 

so I must unbolt the motor mount to access the tensioner or only when I will have trouble accessing it?

If that motor mount pictured is removed do I need to have something supporting underneath to prevent the motor from dropping?

 

It depends on what tools you have and how well you can work in tight spaces.

If you do end up pulling the mount off, use a jack and a block of wood or phone book under the oil pan to help support the motor.

 

what the hell...drive belt for base is double type-s' in price...I guess they're not interchangable because the base is 1" longer

Is there a difference between Dayco's DriveRite V-ribbed belt vs Multi-ribbed premium in terms of longevity for a daily driver?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5264520&cc=1432639

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=960761&cc=1432639

According to this thread, 68" is incorrect for type-S but not sure if it applies to base?

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=759375

I dont need to touch motor mount for belt replacement...wonder if that also applies to the tensioner replacement. Should I get the belt removal tool if I want things to go smoothly and not run into access woes with 2 wrenches linked or breaker bar?

 

can someone confirm the correct belt length for a base?

 

You can remove the tensioner without removal of the motor mount. Just got an extension and a 12mm socket. As far as the belt goes, go on kseries.com and order the oem Honda belt that fits your 2004 and model. There is no need to determine length.

 

i completed this successfully a week ago...VERY tight access from just engine bay.

I would also to get a light tick noise and my headlight/dash would flicker; I thought I'd reassess after tensioner replacement.

With the new tensioner, rattling mentioned in the initial post is gone!
I still get that light tick noise every 20-30 seconds although there's no more flickering. It also it idles a bit rough still. I did not change the belt at 65k as there were no signs of cracks/color change. All of this only an issue when the heater/AC fan is on. Any idea? Would a new belt solve these minor annoyances?