Yes, because you got base arms. I found that I couldn't get type S arms, so I did the bushings. They will swear they are ok, but you know better. You also can't use base ball joints as they are too small for your S knuckle. Canuckle.

 

Ugh, makes sense. As almost everything to do with this car is slowly becoming obsolete. It's getting harder to source parts for it. Autozone doesn't even sell shocks for it anymore. I wouldn't buy them there anyway.....but it says a lot. So I guess it's settle for worn control arm bushings, or press in some new ones then :flush:

 

I hate buying stuff from Rockauto for this car for this reason. They always switch things with the base model.

 

Yeah....it's pretty annoying

I found that I couldn't get type S arms, so I did the bushings
https://pepa.ir

That seems like the only route to go now, or keep ordering arms until I get the right ones. Seems like I'm gonna get either the prothane or the energy suspension bushings.

 

I found that I couldn't get type S arms, so I did the bushings
https://pepa.ir

 

Since installing all the parts I have now been getting a very loud "CLUNK" when I go over larger holes.....it won't do it on small holes. It almost sounds metal to metal, but I can't say for sure. It hits so hard that I can feel the hit in the pedal if I have my foot resting on it.
I thought it may have been that the new springs were too stiff. So I tried setting the pre-load a little lower, but it did not make much of a difference. I also made sure to check the sway bar endlinks, everything entirely, but I can't find what would cause that noise.

When I replaced everything I had pulled the control arms, and the bushings are pretty worn, they look dry and cracked. I ended up putting those back on since the new ones didn't fit......could it be the compliance bushing making that noise? It's driving me nuts after only a few days of driving with it. I struggled to pull the arms out the first time.....but to slide them back on was much easier. Would me breaking them loose cause them to actually start acting damaged since they're not binded to the chassis anymore?

 

Probably something else making noise where the old parts you replaced were the ones absorbing the energy and forced before. If those were the weak point, that weak point has now shifted to a new part.

If you've doubled checked your install, adequately lubricated things etc.

 

I've gone under the car at least 4-5 times already just to check on everything. For the amount of force felt, I would figure I'd find a component that has scratches/scuffs, or any sort of damage that would show it is hitting something else. I haven't been able to pinpoint anything. I greased everything I installed that had a fitting on it, checked to make sure everything was tight, reset the spring pre-load to 5mm as recommended, lowered it to 4mm, and even 3mm as it is still within the specifications. I have the damping adjustment set at 15 out of 30, so it really shouldn't be doing that, seeing as how only the driver side does it.

 

It could very well be the compliance bushings. That was the cause of my clunking.
Considering your compliance bushings are on their way out anyways, i’d replace those next.

 

Yeah, I'm like 90% sure that is the issue here.

I ran into the same situation, Rockauto control arms dont work. I just used the Energy Suspension control arm polyurethane bushings or you can use other bushings to your liking, just need to get them pressed out and new ones in.

Yup! Just received the new prothane bushings, hoping to install over this weekend.....kind of rough with the super bowl this sunday.

Question for both of you, did you go get an alignment after switching out the bushings? Or did you wait til the next time you were going to take it in?

 

I ran into the same situation, Rockauto control arms dont work. I just used the Energy Suspension control arm polyurethane bushings or you can use other bushings to your liking, just need to get them pressed out and new ones in.

 

You'll need an alignment anytime you replace a suspension part.

 

You can cheap out and take a tape measure and a buddy. Measure center to center front and rear. If wheels are parallel, you've just completed an alignment. If you are worried about camber, the Iphone has a level on it now. Camber isn't as big of an issue for wear as toe in or out.
I have alignment sticks to do the job and have never had an issue doing it myself. There are other methods and some may want a bit of toe for high speed handling.

If it's pulling to the side you need to think which way your toe is, and which way to move the adjusters to align. If it pulls to the side, and your wheels are parallel, then you move them the same in the opposite direction so steering wheel is flat and wheels are parallel. Inside wear is toe out, outside wear is toe in. If money is no object just take it in.

 

Money is no object, but I've taken it in for 2 alignments in 2 months, and I was gonna do the second one under warranty, but they said due to the new parts it's not covered under warranty, so I had to pay again. Idk if they'll be able to figure out that I swapped out the control arm bushings though.
I don't wanna pay for a 3rd alignment within a 3 month span lol.

 

Lots of the major chains like Firestone do lifetime alignment for $200.

 

Yeah, I took it to Sears because they offered the lifetime for 200, but apparently they stopped doing it. I would get it done there on my past cars, but I guess I'll have to find another place to get the alignment done.