[novaspace]

Drag cartel. DIC has a really good mid gain.. You will like it.
I did countless hours research on drop in cams.... Other brands are all great... But I just saw more good reviews on drag cartel than others..

 

[novaspace]

RBC and cams and good tune ,u will not regret

 

[novaspace]

Sometime I feel like kicking my self on the butt.going back to PRC and loose that much power. And tq....
But in real life everyday town driving ... PRC seems to suit my needs BETTER. RBC did

 

[aaronprotoge91]

Everything you say makes very good sense. Thank you for the advice. Yes I will be installing my Drag Cartel Drop in cams along with the RBC at the same time as well as getting it dyno tuned. I cant wait to see what the motor will do....I will also be replacing my short ram intake with a cold air intake

 

[novaspace]

I believe I made about 230HP 168tq on k20...on dynapack..
But I'm running a oem type r complete exhaust system.... More power can be gained with race header.and exhaust....

Once you done try sAve up for a clutch....
I personally like clutchmaster fx 100....
And straighten motor mounts.
I tried the after market ...but it's just too much vibration....
And torque damper. Also , just too much..
I did some research and found out mugen. Made motor mount....
Oem quality and comfort... But not much improvement like the Other polyurethane mounts..
And mugen set doesn't come with rear engine mount. Like other brAnd..... I ordered a hardrace rear mount only...
They use rubber like one but littler more stronger rubber... And it seems like a good combo.... Had little vibration but after about 2 month or so no vibration at all.. . other poly mounts claims after it settles in vibration will decrease... .. It's just all b.s from my experience...... Had them for like 6 month .and during that 6 month I hated them.....

 

[novaspace]

If u have any question AsK, maybe I can help.
I'm not an expert or mechanic... But I did lot of try and error... I can give u a personal experience on item that I have tried..
Many thread I read . many great info.... But I just see too much people talk non sense ,when they haven't even tried them for themself.
.
I myself still in process Seeking out for that last drp of juice.. But at same time keeping my car CA emission standard.
My next goal is to seek out type r upper cylinder...

Lot of co out there great port polish etc....
but during my early yrs in 90s found out many out ther who port cylinders.... But not up quality proven result....
Type r cylinder has only the intake side hand ported by Honda tech who brought us type r!... I know compare to some other not much better... But I know for fact it's proven and oem quality of type r badge...
Some will say why the hell. You wanna upgrade with oem??
K20.org has a cult who worship oem swap.... And proven data ... And most important. Oem quality and realibity. That we all came to love about honda

 

[novaspace]

Tuneing a vehicle is to tune to ur needs.
I just see no reason why not to believe people who actually have tried item...you put a same part on same engine.. And possibility of getting different result is very high.
If I'm low on budget

Like many others here I trust my butt dyno... Haha.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

This graph is taken from another CRSX thread and it shows very minimal loss of mid range power between 4200-5800 RPM. If you look between 2500-4000 RPM it shows an even smaller dip in the powerband that should have no noticeable effect on power delivery. IMO, which is not the same as everyone elses, that small dip in those two areas is well worth the almost 20 HP bump this dyno shows at redline. It appears those little dips only equate to about 4-5 WHP which you would never notice in part throttle driving.

Dyno was taken from this thread.

If you read the thread it does say that the PRB and RBC tunes were done by different tuners so that could account for some of the losses and some of the gains but this is just visual support to help you make your decision.

 

[aaronprotoge91]

This graph is taken from another CRSX thread and it shows very minimal loss of mid range power between 4200-5800 RPM. If you look between 2500-4000 RPM it shows an even smaller dip in the powerband that should have no noticeable effect on power delivery. IMO, which is not the same as everyone elses, that small dip in those two areas is well worth the almost 20 HP bump this dyno shows at redline. It appears those little dips only equate to about 4-5 WHP which you would never notice in part throttle driving.

Dyno was taken from this thread.

If you read the thread it does say that the PRB and RBC tunes were done by different tuners so that could account for some of the losses and some of the gains but this is just visual support to help you make your decision.

But the graph says 240 but is way over that on the visual side..i dont understand

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

But the graph says 240 but is way over that on the visual side..i dont understand

The numbers on the left side of the graph represent HP and the numbers on the right side of the graph represent torque.

 

[aaronprotoge91]

Tuneing a vehicle is to tune to ur needs.
I just see no reason why not to believe people who actually have tried item...you put a same part on same engine.. And possibility of getting different result is very high.
If I'm low on budget

Like many others here I trust my butt dyno... Haha.

I love honda for that reason too....simple reliability....
im looking to make around 230hp....i already have headers and hasport 88a motor mounts with a torque damper...

 

[novaspace]

When . looking at graphs. Look more into tq.not HP... Lot of people just look at what max HP and thinks that's what they get ... Remember TQ counts when stop and go ....driving. I... And HP comes to play when u in cursing speed... And every lb of TQ counts ... Test drive a b.m.w or any European cars... And see how having all your example ...270lb of TQ kick in at 2500-3000 rpm....

 

[novaspace]

Good choice. But I just think motor mount and torque damper is just too much.. I believe u need some sort of movement not a lot.. But some...unless u want all that force energy to transfer to Other parts ans break something down the road..
U need to upgrade to higher TQ capacity. Clutch ..to really appreciate the mods......

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

When . looking at graphs. Look more into tq.not HP... Lot of people just look at what max HP and thinks that's what they get ... Remember TQ counts when stop and go ....driving. I... And HP comes to play when u in cursing speed... And every lb of TQ counts ... Test drive a b.m.w or any European cars... And see how having all your example ...270lb of TQ kick in at 2500-3000 rpm....

I understand the correlation between HP and Torque. I also understand that 500 RPMs go by very quickly and a 7 ft/lb decrease is not that noticeable. I posted the graph as a reference for the OP, just so he has something he can see that shows the differences. I own a Corvette and have owned 8 different cars from different manufacturers and the one thing I have noticed is that shifting power upwards in the RPM range does not make a very noticeable difference down low when daily driving due to the fact that you are still only part throttle. I only mention the corvette because you mentioned having 270 ft/lbs of torque kick in at 2500-3000; I have much more than that lol.

 

[novaspace]

Nice!!! Corvette child hood dream car...
I understAnd what u saying.... But in our compact car specially Honda we have a really bad TQ band in lower.... If you read articles on car mazagines when review New model of accord .Camry.etc......
You Wil see critics all talk about this.

Camry or Mazda 6.. Quicker than Honda....
But accord better in mid upper.....
That has to due with fact that CCamry has more usable TQ in lower dept..... Ex......
You can't compare our little import To supercar like corvette.
They have so much TQ like u said 7lb won't feel the difference..
But not so on little import.

 

[novaspace]

My opinion is on focus. On usable daily commute ..
Not when I have to slam my gears to 5500 rpm on every gear to enjoy vtec and usable TQ curve.. AsK your self..how many times u enjoying sunny Sunday cruise relaxing .and u see others come up and just rev like crazy and take off.. I bet u thinking to ur self ..stupid@*@*@. Even though I do that some time... Most of driver out there Will think the same. ..
And just at the next signal u see them next to u lol...
This is just my opinion. On This topic. So no offense to anyone....

 

[novaspace]

Look at people who r running high power....
U can achieve with k20...but aot of work to be done....
They have to get force induction... Or k24 bottom. That's reality... I bet they all tried and tried and realized damn. Sti need more TQ......

 

[IronGumby]

Some good discussion in this thread. I too have purchased a PRC as opposed to a RBC, for reasons of midrange (besides not getting Kpro/Ktuner, just a reflash). I think it's pretty clear the RBC outshines the PRB for the most part (minimal sacrifice in midrange, plus the most enjoyable part of driving a K20 is when/if it continues to pull at the top end!) but I think the real debate is if it's worth it to get a RBC over a PRC. I'd say for cams yes, but other than that idk. DIC's are the really tricky in-between ground where I guess if you're gonna drop that money might as well go gung-ho and get the RBC as well to exploit them

Apparently this is the difference of a K20 on PRB vs PRC but I'm not sure of the mods included.... I sure hope the throttle wasn't floored on the PRC until 2200-2300rpm cuz that's gonna suck below 2000rpm if it was for when pulling out from a stop... :noes:

 

[novaspace]

Nice!!.
2300-4000rpm that's what I like really useful....
That's where u want a healthy dose of TQ
Thanks for upload

 

[novaspace]

One more fact u need to consider.
Prb designed for performance but at same time,they needed to focus on fuel economy.for the General. Consumers...
But in other hand PRC performance orientated from the start.