Read the e-mail they sent you and print out the things they tell you to print out and send them with the other items.

 

Yeah I read the instructions but it does not mention anything about printing out a copy of K Series Parts order. The only paperwork they ask to print out is the Hondata ECU Reflash form. To print and sign the form.

 

Nevermind, I found the parts order email.

 

Good luck and enjoy the new driving dynamics!

 

Make sure you and your car are by an internet source or you will not be able to start your car, it must be plugged in with the key on engine off. Hondata makes you register your name to the vin on the ECU before you can program the chip (The board is blank once they add the new chip).

Also some cars have an Immobilizer (green key on the dash that flashes and is just annoying). It's in the "Parameters" window > "Misc." Tab > First thing at the top needs a checkmark on it.

 

There is no part of what you just said that is true.

 

sorry, misread hondata reflash. good luck anyways, and get back to us on how it is, i was debating to go with a cheeper tune or jus go all the way with kpro, but i'm still happy with my choice.

 

Yeah, its my daily driver, and its a base, so no point in spend that much in K-pro.

I just want something to beat my brother's '03 Sentra SE-R :laughing:

Just sent it in the mail today, hopefully it get back here Wednesday. But then again Im in Maryland so its a slim chance :noes:

 

from Wisconsin it took about a week and a half for kpro, i hope you get it before the weekend to cruise a bit and enjoy it sooner.

 

They try to flash it and ship it back out the same day so you'll get it the next, but depends on the carrier you chose to ship it to them and what time it gets there. One I got the next day after they received it, and the other one 2 days later (cuz it didn't make the pick-up time that day). Anyways, I've never regretted any reflashes I've gotten, so yes, enjoy enjoy! :thumbsup:

 

Its scheduled to get there today @3PM via USPS, so hopefully I'll get it Wednesday or Thursday. The latest Friday.

I'm already getting tired of using my buddy's POS 1.8L Civic Sedan for my daily commute. :deadhorse

The stick shift cables feels like its made of bubble gum compared to my RSX.

Beggars cant be choosers I suppose.

 

Just an update:

USPS said that my ECU got there 10:30 AM 5/20 (yesterday). I checked my Kseries parts order status and it says "Shipped".

So if I'm lucky I will get my ECU back today :zing:

If that's the case I'll be writing my review tonight so stay tuned!

 

If that's the case I'll be writing my review tonight so stay tuned!

Ah i see what your did they're.

 

Well I don't know what to explain about removing the negative battery cable, but really the ECU idle relearn is what I did. (Some other guy on here I read had a reflash not working properly and disconnected and reconnected his battery and it fixed it, but... really it probably wasn't the reflash that he fixed -- some other problem, cuz it shouldn't affect it now that I think about it... (That's what I get for repeating what I hear!)).

Here's what you're "supposed" to do if you ever disconnect your battery, disconnect your ECU, clean or remove the throttle body:

1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 °F (90 °C).
2. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.

It's not even necessary so do whatchu want. Obviously people replace batteries and don't even know about this procedure. The car will still drive and figure things out.

p.s. For any that think this procedure is BS, try holding it exactly at 3000rpm and watch the needle. Closely. It will slightly overrev and underrev for a couple seconds at a time as it figures things out, even though you are holding your foot perfectly still

 

Well I don't know what to explain about removing the negative battery cable, but really the ECU idle relearn is what I did. (Some other guy on here I read had a reflash not working properly and disconnected and reconnected his battery and it fixed it, but... really it probably wasn't the reflash that he fixed -- some other problem, cuz it shouldn't affect it now that I think about it... (That's what I get for repeating what I hear!)).

Here's what you're "supposed" to do if you ever disconnect your battery, disconnect your ECU, clean or remove the throttle body:



It's not even necessary so do whatchu want. Obviously people replace batteries and don't even know about this procedure. The car will still drive and figure things out.

p.s. For any that think this procedure is BS, try holding it exactly at 3000rpm and watch the needle. Closely. It will slightly overrev and underrev for a couple seconds at a time as it figures things out, even though you are holding your foot perfectly still

Yeah I didnt disconnect the battery when I removed the ECU/immobilizer. I hear you have to do is connect it and let it sit for 10 minutes. :dontknow:

I think I'll just follow what this guy did.

http://www.ivtecdaily.com/rsx/mods/hondata.html

 

he's talking about the adaptive values. it's for the Learnt iac, TP, map, iat and most automatic transsmission functions. when parts wear and carbon builds up, the computer changes some output parameters to maintain propper running without throwing an MIL. You shouldnt have to do a capacitor drain on the reflashed ecu because it's been out of the car without power for so long, but i could be wrong. On some cars you can disconnect the battery and hold the positive and negative togeather for 10-20 seconds or so.

Also the radio will lock you out if you kill power to the car, so make sure you have the code that the dealer sometimes charges the customer.

 

Dunno how different it is, but I have a 05 type s and I just plugged ECU in and let the car idle for 10 or so minutes. Took it for a 20 minute drive just regular driving and you could tell the difference. Won't blow you away, but it's nice to not have to rev the piss out of it just to get it going.

 

Lol you think its bad on a type-s, try driving a base buddy. I love my DC5 to death but the whole "Hold on, not done accelerating" joke is especially true on the base.

 

So here is my review,

Holy crap it works. :weeeeeeeeee:

So I plugged it in, let it idle for 10 minutes and drove it around. It actually moves now. The main difference for me is shifting from stand still. I really dont feel like Im going to stall now. Just give it slight gas and it just moves, no more shudder.

The next thing is chirping. Now my tires are in good condition. When Im gunning it, it chirps 2nd every single time. I was surprised to have it chirp a little from 2nd to 3rd, but then again I was borderline redlining. But as far as rough torque, it hasn't changed.

The behavior of the torque actually feels like it has a pair of balls now. I had to wait and wait for it to speed up in. Now the power delivery is just smooth and doesn't lag like before.

It use to take me forever to go from 50-100. I would have had to really be pushing it hard and for a long time. With the reflash, that needle just moves. I glanced at my speedo when I was pushing it, and I said, "Holy shit IM doing 100 already???" I was still on 4th gear doing 5-6K rpms.

I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes, reconnected and had it idle for 10 minutes and took it out for another drive but to be honest I really didn't notice much difference from the first drive. :dontknow:

So in conclusion, before I couldn't feel myself get pushed back against my seat when I was gunning it.

But now I can. :thumbsup:

 

So here is my review, Holy crap it works. :weeeeeeeeee:

Happy for you bro! :thumbsup: Hondata knows their stuff.

 

Glad to hear your happy. :vtec:

 

Missed the review part. Glad you're happy with it!

 

Hella happy with it.

Like people said before, it changes the driving dynamics. Whatever hondata did, it feels like they spread the power throughout the power band. So the K20A3's power is transferred in a more usable power-band starting at 3K RPM.

Not like last before the flash where all the actual power was in 5K and up range. We all know to get to 5K you'll either have to punish your clutch by downshifting to 3rd or just wait until you get there; which by that time the other car is already out of there.

 

My guess is they used more aggressive timing lower in the rev range, but don't quote me on that.
And what do you mean by abusing your clutch??:dontknow: Just rev match man, no stress on the clutch if done properly. You may need to look up heel-toe downshifting and practice it. I'm going to assume you just let off the clutch when downshifting, big no no:laughing:

 

Yeah you don't even have to learn how to heel-toe (yet... that's only for during braking), but revmatching is pretty simple. Just blip or hold the throttle where the revs should be for the gear you are choosing before you let out the clutch. Does not punish clutch at all if you are close.

And yes, Hondata advanced the timing and played around with the VTC. I think I saw that you can benefit from using 89 or 91 octane gas with this reflash? (did you see that?) I don't have a base so I put in 93 all the time so idk. The higher the octane the more the ECU can advance the timing without experiencing any knock and make more power

 

Lol yeah, retarded mistake on my end, I'll definitely try to revmatch next time.

As far as putting better octane fuel , I have no clue. Hondata didn't leave any instructions, just a couple of decals in the box. If you can find solid proof that high octane in a base makes a difference I'll definitely try it.

Probably when I go to the drag strip I'll put Sunoco 94 :drink:

 

Guess you could call it that, yes. Higher octane:more power. But no you'll be just fine with 87 for daily

 

If you read the Hondata site is says they used 89 not 87 and also that they recommend 91. Why even bother spending the money for a re flash if you aren't going to put the proper fuel in the car. It will retard the timing when it detects knock from low octane fuel and you will gain nothing from the reflash

 

Why cant I just put "proper" fuel my car? The same reason why I bought a base instead of a type S........I can't afford it. :finger:

I wouldn't say that I haven't gained anything when I know I can definitely feel the difference. Am I using the reflash to its full potential? No, but its my daily driver and I got other bills to pay. I'll save the extra power when I'm proving myself on the drag strip. I'm still having hella fun with my new mod and I'm not doing any long term damage putting regular fuel since its not a S.

 

Not to be a jerk, but seriously just curious: Did you use 87 octane when cylinder 4 blew on your top speed run? Just wondering. Sorry to hear about that. I wish there was an easy fix :sigh:

 

Nah, gas is cheaper this year compared to 2014 so I last filled up with Shell's V-Power crap.

But I think I plainly just pushed my car too much, generated too much heat and blew my cylinder. I actually did an oil analysis at 155K miles with BlackStone Labs and they said my engine was healthy (using 5w-10 Royal Purple). Engine blew at 160K miles. Oil level was fine, didn't remember seeing my temp gauge going up during the run.

All well, next engine I won't push it so hard. I'm satisfied with my 135 mph record