If you have the slightest hint that you may go turbo with the engine, then don't waste your money buying a Type R engine.... Be pointless with the transmission and a waste of a few thousand dollars for the R....

 

Pointless how? It's 5k for the motor and tranny just FYI.

 

just get k20a2/z1. buddy of mine is selling a complete drop out swap with everything for $2500. why pay 5g for the jdm motor when power is gonna be very similar.

 

Basically a type s conversion at that point right?. Idk if I want to build it or slap a turbo on it. If i do go the route of turbo An a2/z1 would need some rebuilding no? I already have full exhaust exept for a turbo manifold. All I'd need is an ECU tune, some supporting mods and that motor can hold up easily 400hp, which is around my target area.

 

type r 4,5,6 only different. 5k , u can get k24a2. and build ur usdm tranny with new carbon synchros. and order type r 4,5 gears. , but if u going to turbo, keep those usdm gears , and for final drive get 02-04 type s 4.3 final gear, not the 05-06 4.7, better for turbo or k24 set up so u can benefit the new higher TQ

 

Dope. I appreciate all the input. That's what I came here for. To learn.

 

There's a lot of :face: in here

 

:thumbsdow

Instead of providing some beneficial input you come through arrogantly placing yourself on a little stage of superiority. Comments like that are of absolutely no use. I'm starting to get the impression a larger majority than not of rsx owners are ignorant jerks with a superiority complex they hadn't realized they'd gotten from being lied to as children. This scene is wrecked.

 

Intake manifold= air into engine
Turbo manifold= exhaust out of turbo engine
Header = exhaust out of N/A engine

Correct?

 

Basically yes. When the exhaust exits the head on a turbo motor it enters the turbo manifold and then is pushed through the turbine housing to spin the shaft that connects the turbine wheel to the compressor wheel which creates boost.

 

I have a type R motor swap on my car. the engine is great, feels bulletproof and is extremely healthy. With an all motor setup (intake header exhaust RBC KPRO) I made 249 whp / 178 wtq. But it's only common sense that if you plan on turbo charging your car, go with the k20a2. don't even get the z1. The k20a2 has lower compression and a similar valve springs/retainers to the type r. but the cams on the type r are more aggressive

 

Nice. Thanks. With me still learning and boost being so expensive I've decided to go with a N/A setup for now.
CAI, Exhaust, header, a2 head & crank, higher compression pistons, RBC, (depending on the condition of the block and power goals) sleeved block, new throttle body. Maybe a new/ custom fuel delivery system with upgraded fuel rail and pump. Idk if that'll help. I don't want to run extra fuel to the engine if it's not needed, especially if there's no extra air to mix with it like you would need with a turbo. And finally a new brain( ECU tune). Will new fuel delivery system in a N/A setup improve performance after ECU tune via Kpro? A/F adjustment? Just tossing out random thoughts.

I want to make sure I know and fully understand a N/A Rsx before I dive into the world of turbo and people that'll flame you.

 

Look man if your issue is budget, i'd say go turbo. You can get a decent custom turbo setup for about 5k. That is what youre going to end up spending if not more, on a full NA setup that'll reach its full potential around 300hp

 

How do I go about it. Wih a decent turbo set up, supporting mods and full type S conversion or k24 swap I'll be past the 5k mark before I even buy the turbo. With installation and all I mean.
I've had people on here quote me estimates at around 10k. :run:

I've seen nice kits for about 3k. But those kits don't include fuel delivery system upgrades. I'd still have to buy a ton of supporting mods like map sensors and then an engine and tranny swap. Whether k24 or k20a2.

 

You clearly need to do way more reading before even beginning to ask these sorts of questions. Your comment about upgrading the rail/pump and running extra fuel into the engine is just proof of this. Your ECU will control how much fuel is getting into the cylinders no matter what rail and pump you have. Take some time and read all the stickies.

 

Absolutely. I promise I've read up since. I'm not the best at communication. I failed to write any of that. I wrote and rewrote thinking I was wrong. Even with Kpro managing the amount of fuel being delivered into the engine a stock pump, fuel line and fuel rail, won't deliver the amount of fuel necessary to run a decent turbo. Won't I need a bigger pump and bigger lines to improve the rate and amount of fuel being delivered? Am I wrong for assuming I'll need more fuel since there will be more air coming into my engine? Isn't that called running lean?

 

Do yourself a favor and just buy a k24a2. It will be leaps and bounds better than your k20a3. As you learn what you need to learn you can build off of that.

 

I'll take that into consideration. I'll run some research.

 

I have a k20a and even though I'm not as Harsh as the other guys on here I agree with them. Don't waste the 5k on it. Even my all motor build netted minimal gains over the z1. I love the short geared trans and it's great for when I auto cross but it's so damn short you'd hate it boosted. If I could go back in time I would have picked up a k24. Originally I was doing a swap on a prelude and I wanted to be unique but it was way over kill on the pocket book. Even if you stick it out all motor a z1 or even an a2 is perfectly fine. However do your research so you only build shit once not thirty times cause you rushed without thinking it though. I'd say the only reason you should ever consider the Type r motor is if your going to go full replica integra type r and leave it just the way it was.

 

I have a k20a and even though I'm not as Harsh as the other guys on here I agree with them. Don't waste the 5k on it. Even my all motor build netted minimal gains over the z1. I love the short geared trans and it's great for when I auto cross but it's so damn short you'd hate it boosted. If I could go back in time I would have picked up a k24. Originally I was doing a swap on a prelude and I wanted to be unique but it was way over kill on the pocket book. Even if you stick it out all motor a z1 or even an a2 is perfectly fine. However do your research so you only build shit once not thirty times cause you rushed without thinking it though. I'd say the only reason you should ever consider the Type r motor is if your going to go full replica integra type r and leave it just the way it was.

Right.... Nothing wrong with boosting an R, as long as you didn't initially buy it with that intention. If it happens later on down the line, that's a different story.. But if you have the slightest feeling you like turbo and can see yourself owning a turbo K, then go with a2, z1, z3, whatever.... Save the coins for aftermarket parts.

 

I installed K20A Type R swap last month. Since these motors are expensive I wanted to see the motor and meet the people I bought it from so I traveled all the way to Houston. I bought my K20A TYPE R JDM swap from Engine World Inc http://www.bestjapaneseengines.com/

 

I'm glad you had a good experience with Engine world in Houston. After a few conversations with this guy on the phone i wanted to kick his teeth in. The jerk wouldnt go read the engine code on the motor block so i'd know what i was getting. i told the dude i needed a K20A2. He either couldnt or wouldnt go figure it out.

 

I think K20A TYPE R motor is totally worth it if you are passionate about it. I spent 2 months reviewing JDM importers, checking engines etc and finally bought JDM engine from http://www.bestjapaneseengines.com/

 

I've got a 2002 RSX type S. Last year after a blown head gasket i swapped to a JDM type R K20A. Got a great deal on it. $2800 for the complete engine w/o the tranny. Even got the ECU and wiring harness. For ease of the swap my mechanic used my k20A2 harness and ECU. I love the new motor. It does feel bulletproof, but i cant help but wonder.... Why would I or NOT swap out the ECU's? Will it even work? Will it be imobilized? I just feel like the new K20A might actually be losing some easily gained potential. This is my daily driver/commuter and reliabilty is most important. Can i send this K20A ECU to Hondata? If i do, can i tune it to gain a little power. My motor is basically stock other than a slightly modified exhaust and CAI. After reading this post I'm sure some of the brains in this thread have the answer. BTW I've solved every problem I've ever had with my RSX right here in CLUBRSX.COM thanks dudes.

 

$2800 for a motor with how many miles on it?

 

It was a complete motor with all components and the ECU, so i guess i could figure it out if i were to plug up the ECU that came with it. Any idea if my car would run if i simply plug in the JDM ECU into my 2002 DC5? The thing about JDM engines is that you usually never know how many miles, but its always low. I understand its usually between 50,000 and 60,000 miles.

 

If you have the right harness it should run. How do you figure most JDM engines usually have between 50-60k miles?

 

The harnesses were practically identical, but the JDM engine harness was slightly damaged, so my mechanic just used my original.
My mechanic has bought several cars and installed JDM engines then resold them. He told me, then through my own research found out he was correct about the highly regulated emissions standards in Japan. The cars must be re-inspected every 6 months to get a "tag." If they roll in for inspection with more than 50K US miles they must get a new engine, or sell the car to a foreign market. Lots op for a new engine as its cheaper.

 

I've heard the same thing about the mileage "caps" on Japanese engines over the years. This has been a topic on a lot of car forums, not just this one.

 

This is correct. They make it not worth your while to keep an older car on the road. That being said, there is no way to be sure of the mileage. You can only guess/hope.

 

3 different JDM engine importers told me the same thing. They will normally have at least 50K on them, but usually not much more.

 

I get what you guys are saying about putting a k20a2 longblock together being cheaper than $4699 complete k20a itr swap. I did the k20a2 swap twice already, once with ips k2, prc pistons, etc. Now that I bought a dc5-s, i want to upgrade parts to a k20a status.

However, I am going to buy the k20a w/ lsd tranny for these reasons :

I can sell my k20a2 complete swap. Buy $4,700 k20a complete swap. Sell 3-4 parts of it I don't need, gain some money back, I don't have to take my k20a2 apart and buy a bunch of prc parts and install them, then try to sell a bunch of prb parts. No machine shop labor fees. And my 145,000 mile k20a2 engine and tranny resets to 40-50,000 mile K20a engine and tranny that has better internals, better mechanical function, and the value of my car will be higher. All of the bolt ons I install will have better results with a K20a vs k20a2 once tuned. Really if we are talking a little extra coin for function and reliability advantage I am all in.

The math of converting a K20a2 to a K20a is expensive. The power gains are very noticeable with bolt one and tune. The engine can handle revs better as well.

My 2cents.

 

One more thing! I used the JDM A/C compressor when i did my swap just because I've had shit luck with several expensive branded replacement compressors in many different type vehicles over the years. But lately ive been testing the difference in acceleration with and without the A/C running. Holy shit! it accelerates much faster without the AC on. i couldnt believe the difference. But it's SOOOOOO fukin hot in Louisiana. I guess I'll just have to lose the horsepower.

 

But lately ive been testing the difference in acceleration with and without the A/C running. Holy shit! it accelerates much faster without the AC on. i couldnt believe the difference. But it's SOOOOOO fukin hot in Louisiana. I guess I'll just have to lose the horsepower.

For sure man! Here is the dyno plot of the A/C power drain:
https://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=646778
it's like 10-12 ft-lbs, which can be like nearly 10% if you're stock!

 

type r 4,5,6 only different. 5k , u can get k24a2. and build ur usdm tranny with new carbon synchros. and order type r 4,5 gears. , but if u going to turbo, keep those usdm gears , and for final drive get 02-04 type s 4.3 final gear, not the 05-06 4.7, better for turbo or k24 set up so u can benefit the new higher TQ you can do it at your garage or just write on Google towing service near me get service and make fix from official service center of car.