this all started because I had a power steering leak for a long time and oil and grease where all over under the whole length of the car. so I started chasing the leak and ended up changing the belt tensioner and all four motor mounts and I had the air box out doing the tranny mount and discovered a mess of oil and grease under it so I left the air box off and drove it to power wash the area under it. It drove fine going there but after I was done ( and I made sure all the ports were covered so i didint get water any where it didnt belong and the engine was hot now) I started to drive home and she ran bad. Didnt want to idle and check engine lights, so I limped her home and started chasing codes. After I changed the MAP, IAT, IAC, TP, front O2 it had a low rumble resonating through the car while it idled. Like my subwoofer was reverberating. I had a code for a misfire on cyl 3. I cleared everything but I cant get the rumble to go away. It seems to run ok, and the idle is normal but the vibration at idle has me concerned. I know driving it like this has to be hurting the engine because its not smooth. I'm at my wits end so after I change the vtec solenoid (from my previous post) I'm taking it the Acura dealership to have them diagnose this old girl

 

It sounds like you’ve been through quite an ordeal with your RSX, and you’re now focused on the VVT (Variable Valve Timing) solenoid as a potential source of your issues. Let’s break down your concerns and what you can do:

1. VVT Solenoid Voltage:

• Normal Voltage: Typically, the VVT solenoid should receive around 12 volts when the engine control unit (ECU) activates it. If you’re only seeing 4 volts with the key on, that’s definitely lower than expected and could indicate an issue.
• Possible Causes:The low voltage could be due to several reasons, including:
  • A faulty wiring connection or a corroded connector.
  • A failing VVT solenoid.
  • An issue with the ECU or the power supply to the solenoid.

2. Testing the VVT Solenoid:

• Click Test: When you apply 12 volts directly to the solenoid (as you did by grounding it and using a test lead to the positive terminal), you should hear a clicking sound as the plunger inside moves. If you don’t hear anything, the solenoid could be stuck or faulty.
• Next Steps: Since the solenoid isn’t responding when you apply power directly, it’s a good idea to replace it, especially since they’re relatively inexpensive. However, also ensure the wiring and connectors are in good shape, as those could be the root cause of the voltage drop.

3. Post-Power Wash Issues:

• Potential Water Intrusion: Even though you were careful during the power wash, it’s possible that some water or moisture might have found its way into sensitive areas, leading to electrical gremlins.
• Sensor Replacements:You’ve already replaced several sensors (MAP, IAT, IAC, TP, front O2), but the continued rough idle and vibration might suggest either:
  • A lingering electrical issue, possibly related to the VVT system or another component that got wet.
  • A mechanical issue that developed after the power wash or is unrelated to it but coincidentally emerged at the same time.

4. Misfire and Vibration:

• Cylinder 3 Misfire:The misfire on cylinder 3, combined with the vibration at idle, could be related to a few things:
  • A bad ignition coil or spark plug.
  • An issue with fuel delivery (e.g., a clogged injector).
  • An ongoing problem with the VVT system, which might cause timing issues affecting engine smoothness.

5. Next Steps:

• Replace the VVT Solenoid: Go ahead with replacing the VVT solenoid as planned. After replacement, clear any codes and see if the symptoms improve.
• Check Wiring: Carefully inspect all wiring and connectors, especially those related to the VVT solenoid and cylinder 3. Look for any signs of corrosion, damage, or loose connections.
• Dealership Diagnostic: If replacing the VVT solenoid doesn’t resolve the issue, taking the car to the Acura dealership for a thorough diagnostic is a wise move. They’ll have the specialized equipment and expertise to pinpoint the problem, especially if it’s something more complex like a failing ECU or an intermittent electrical issue.

6. Final Thoughts:

• Oil and Grease Cleanup: The oil and grease accumulation from the power steering leak might have contributed to some of these issues, particularly if it got into connectors or onto sensors. Ensure that all areas are cleaned thoroughly, and check for any residual buildup that could cause future problems.

You’ve done a lot already, so don’t get discouraged. With a bit more troubleshooting, hopefully, you’ll be able to get your RSX running smoothly again!

 

thank you very much, I appreciate all your time!!!! I have changed out all the coils and ordered plugs (NGK Iridium) along with the Vtec solenoid. In the meantime I do what you suggested and clean up wiring issues ( I wont use water and brake clean is too aggressive on plastic so probably carb cleaner) Thanks again

 

I'm changing the fuel injectors and I bought a set off of Amazon that flooded my engine with too much fuel. Its $300 for a set from Acura. Does anyone know of a really good aftermarket replacement that under $300?? My RSX is all stock base unit.

 

When replacing fuel injectors for a stock Acura RSX base model, it's essential to choose injectors that match the original specifications to avoid issues like over-fueling, which can flood the engine and cause other performance problems. Here are some reliable aftermarket options that are generally well-regarded and typically cost less than $300;

1. DeatschWerks Fuel Injectors:

• Model: DeatschWerks offers injectors that are direct-fit replacements for many Honda/Acura models, including the RSX.
• Flow Rate: DeatschWerks injectors are flow-matched to ensure consistent fuel delivery.
• Price Range: Typically around $250-$300 for a set of four.
• Pros: Known for high-quality and reliability, often considered an excellent choice for both stock and mildly modified engines.

2. Bosch Fuel Injectors:

• Model: Bosch makes high-quality OEM-equivalent fuel injectors that are compatible with the RSX.
• Price Range: Around $150-$250 for a set of four.
• Pros: Bosch is a reputable brand with a long history of providing OEM parts, so their injectors are reliable and well-suited for stock applications.

3. OEM Remanufactured Injectors:

• Model: OEM remanufactured injectors are another good option. These are original injectors that have been professionally cleaned, tested, and restored to factory specs.
• Price Range: Typically around $200-$250 for a set of four.
• Pros: You get the benefit of OEM quality at a lower price, with the assurance that the injectors meet factory standards.

4. Standard Motor Products Fuel Injectors:

• Model: Standard Motor Products is another brand that provides reliable, OEM-equivalent injectors.
• Price Range: Around $150-$220 for a set of four.
• Pros: Known for producing dependable aftermarket parts that work well in stock vehicles.

5. RC Engineering Fuel Injectors:

• Model: RC Engineering injectors are known for their precision and reliability.
• Price Range: Typically $250-$300 for a set of four.
• Pros: These injectors are often used in both stock and performance applications and are flow-matched for consistent performance.

Things to Consider:

• Flow Rate: Make sure the flow rate of the aftermarket injectors matches the stock specifications (usually around 240cc for a base RSX). Higher flow rates can cause over-fueling if the ECU isn’t tuned for them.
• Warranty and Support: Choose a brand that offers good customer support and a warranty, as this can save you from potential issues down the road.
• Reviews: Check customer reviews and ratings, especially from those who own a similar vehicle, to ensure that the injectors perform well in stock applications.

Conclusion:
For a stock Acura RSX base model, DeatschWerks, Bosch, and Standard Motor Products injectors are all solid aftermarket choices under $300. If you prefer OEM quality but want to save some money, remanufactured OEM injectors could be a good option. Make sure to verify the flow rate and compatibility before purchasing to ensure they meet your vehicle’s needs.

 

thank you very much for all your time. Do you have any idea what RPM that a base model should idle at? According to my scanner mine is about 720RPM, It feels a little low to me.

 

I dont even know if the idle can be adjusted, I'm used to working on 60s and 70s chevrolets

 

Comparing Idle Speeds: Classic Muscle Cars vs. Modern Imports
When you're used to working on '60s and '70s muscle cars like classic Chevrolets, transitioning to a modern import like the Acura RSX can feel quite different—especially when it comes to idle speed.

Idle Speed Differences:

• Classic Muscle Cars: Muscle cars from the '60s and '70s typically had carbureted engines with manual adjustments for idle speed. These cars often idled at higher RPMs, around 800-1000 RPM or more, depending on the setup, camshaft, and tuning. The idle was adjusted by turning a screw on the carburetor, and a slightly higher idle was often used to ensure smooth running, especially with performance cams.
• Modern Imports (RSX): In contrast, modern vehicles like the Acura RSX are equipped with electronic fuel injection and drive-by-wire throttle control, which are managed by the ECU (Engine Control Unit). The idle speed for the RSX is typically lower, around 700-750 RPM when the engine is warmed up. This lower idle is designed for fuel efficiency and smooth operation, characteristics of modern engines. The idle speed is automatically controlled by the ECU, with no manual adjustment like on older carbureted engines.

Adjustment and Control:

• Manual vs. Electronic Adjustment: On classic muscle cars, adjusting the idle was as simple as turning a screw on the carburetor. With the RSX, there's no such manual adjustment. The idle speed is controlled electronically, and any adjustments would need to be done via the ECU, usually with specialized tuning software.

What If the RSX Doesn’t Run Well at the Recommended Idle?
While a stock RSX should idle smoothly at around 720 RPM, there are situations where the car might struggle to maintain this idle speed or where a higher idle might be necessary:

• Vacuum Leaks: A vacuum leak can cause the engine to idle poorly or stall, as it disrupts the air/fuel mixture. If the RSX isn't running well at its normal idle, checking for vacuum leaks is a good starting point. *Always check the air filter as well, it never hurts to be thorough in checking everything when an unknown culprit is causing an issue!
• Dirty Throttle Body or IACV (Idle Air Control Valve): A dirty throttle body or a malfunctioning IACV can also lead to poor idle quality. Cleaning these components can often restore smooth idle operation. *See Additional Tips Below!
• Aftermarket Modifications: If the RSX has been modified with aftermarket parts like a performance camshaft, intake, or exhaust, the engine may require a slightly higher idle to run smoothly. Performance cams, in particular, can cause a rough idle if the idle speed is too low, similar to the lopey idle of old muscle cars.
• Sensor Issues: Faulty sensors (such as the O2 sensor, MAP sensor, or MAF sensor) can cause the ECU to set an incorrect idle speed. Running diagnostics to check for any sensor issues can help pinpoint the problem. *See Additional Tips Below!

How to Adjust Idle if Necessary:

• Tuning Software: If you find that the RSX needs a higher idle due to modifications or other issues, you’ll need to use ECU tuning software like Hondata KPro or a similar system to adjust the idle speed. This should be done carefully, as setting the idle too high can affect fuel economy and emissions.
• Temporary Fixes: If you're troubleshooting an issue that causes the idle to dip too low or stall, temporarily increasing the idle through tuning software might help the engine run more smoothly until the underlying issue is resolved.

Conclusion:
For a stock Acura RSX, an idle speed around 720 RPM is typical and should provide smooth operation. However, if the car doesn’t run well at this idle or requires a higher idle due to specific issues or modifications, addressing potential causes like vacuum leaks, dirty components, or sensor problems is crucial. If necessary, idle adjustments can be made through tuning software, but this should be done carefully to ensure the engine runs efficiently and reliably.

_

Additional Tips:
(Checking, cleaning, and/or replacing these may fix an idle/won't run as it should issue. There should be videos for these on Youtube, showing the locations and how to clean.)

Dirty Throttle Body or IACV (Idle Air Control Valve):
A dirty throttle body or a malfunctioning IACV can also lead to poor idle quality. Cleaning these components can often restore smooth idle operation.

• How to Check and Clean the Throttle Body:
  1. Locate the Throttle Body: The throttle body is usually located between the air intake and the intake manifold. On the RSX, it’s easily accessible once you remove the air intake hose.
  2. Inspect for Dirt and Carbon Build-up: With the air intake hose removed, inspect the inside of the throttle body for carbon build-up or dirt around the throttle plate.
  3. Clean the Throttle Body:
     • Use a throttle body cleaner and a soft brush or cloth. Spray the cleaner on the dirty areas, especially around the throttle plate, and gently scrub away the carbon deposits.
     • Open the throttle plate manually to clean the areas behind it as well.
     • Wipe away any excess cleaner and residue with a clean cloth.
  4. Reassemble: Once clean, reattach the air intake hose and any sensors or connections you removed. *You can purchase colored electrical tape, and add to your connectors, thereby easily knowing what to connections are correct (and a permanent marker to number/letter more than one of the same color tape. You may not have any on hand this time so a permanent marker can be used to write on the edges of the connector A, B, C, 1, 2, 3 labels etc).
• How to Check and Clean the IACV:
  1. Locate the IACV: The Idle Air Control Valve is usually located on or near the throttle body. It controls the amount of air bypassing the throttle plate to regulate idle speed.
  2. Remove the IACV: Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the screws or bolts holding the IACV in place.
  3. Inspect the IACV: Check the IACV for carbon build-up or dirt that might be restricting airflow or causing it to stick.
  4. Clean the IACV:
     • Use a throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner to clean the valve and its passages. Spray the cleaner into the valve and use a brush if necessary to remove stubborn deposits.
     • Let the cleaner sit for a few minutes, then rinse with a bit more cleaner and shake out any excess liquid.
  5. Reinstall the IACV: Once clean and dry, reattach the IACV to the throttle body, reconnect the electrical connector, and reassemble any other components you removed.

Sensor Issues:
Faulty sensors (such as the O2 sensor, MAP sensor, or MAF sensor) can cause the ECU to set an incorrect idle speed. Running diagnostics to check for any sensor issues can help pinpoint the problem.

• How to Check and Test Sensors:
  1. Use an OBD-II Scanner:Start by connecting an OBD-II scanner to your vehicle’s diagnostic port to check for any trouble codes related to the sensors.
     • O2 Sensor: Look for codes related to the oxygen sensors (e.g., P0131, P0132) that indicate whether the sensors are reading incorrectly.
     • MAP Sensor: Codes like P0106 or P0107 can indicate issues with the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor.
     • MAF Sensor: Look for codes such as P0101 or P0102 that might point to problems with the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor.
  2. Test the Sensors:
     • O2 Sensor: Using a multimeter, you can check the O2 sensor's output voltage. It should vary as the engine runs, typically between 0.1V and 0.9V. If the readings are static or out of this range, the sensor may be faulty.
     • MAP Sensor: Check the MAP sensor's output voltage or pressure readings against manufacturer specifications. You can also test it by applying vacuum and checking for corresponding changes in the output voltage.
     • MAF Sensor: Clean the MAF sensor using a MAF sensor cleaner spray. Spray the sensor elements gently without touching them, let it dry, and reinstall. You can test the MAF sensor with a multimeter or scan tool to ensure it's reading airflow correctly.
• Cleaning and Replacing Sensors:
  1. Cleaning Sensors:
     • MAF Sensor: Use a MAF sensor cleaner to carefully clean the sensor elements. Do not use carb cleaner or other harsh chemicals, as they can damage the sensor.
     • MAP and O2 Sensors: Typically, these sensors are not cleaned but replaced if faulty.
  2. Replacing Faulty Sensors: If any sensor is found to be faulty, it’s best to replace it with a high-quality or OEM part to ensure proper function and compatibility with your vehicle’s ECU.

Final Thoughts:
Regular maintenance, including cleaning the throttle body and IACV and checking sensors, can help ensure that your RSX idles smoothly and runs efficiently. If these components are dirty or faulty, addressing them can resolve many common idle issues and restore optimal performance.

 

Bro you’ve gotta stop throwing parts at the car. We have a copy of the service manual on here for free, do yourself a favor and download it before you spend more money. If your injectors were working fine previously, don’t replace them. I’m guessing you got water somewhere it shouldn’t be. You can use Simple Green and a garden hose in the future. I used to clean my whole engine bay with that.

Your idle speed at operating temp is 650 if you have a base model or 750 if you have a type s, small fluctuations are normal. There’s an idle re-learn procedure you’re supposed to do whenever you reset the ecu or disconnect the battery. There’s also an idle set screw on the tb, but you typically shouldn’t have to mess with that.

 

gotcha, thanks

 

thanks The Last Superman, you have been a lot of help.

 

I'm just glad the posts were useful to you! I also think mfarmakas17 had a good point about throwing money at it, but it seemed like you had already started down this path of fixing things as you went along (or as they broke/occurred, which seems to be more the norm for us all, ha!) so a little help along the way, can go a long way .

*I didn't know about this either "There’s an idle re-learn procedure you’re supposed to do whenever you reset the ecu or disconnect the battery" which I should have at least considered... since I have a BMW (never again!) with similar processes/resets (Thanks mfarmakas17!).

 

Ive had the battery unhooked numerous times. Where do I find this procedure?

 

THELASTSUPERMAN!!!! YOU ARE THE MAN. the idle reset worked!!! It runs better than it has for years.

 

All the credit goes to mfarmakas17 above ^ it was his comment that reminded me!