Go to the website for the store you got it, if it's their brand, or google if it's a major brand. Either way, verify fitment. They will likely have pics, so in case it was a return in the wrong box, you can verify what it's suppose to look like.

 

Thanks Halfest.

Actually I made a mistake. The oil pressure switch is located right above the oil filter. So right below the heat shield metal plate bolts.

I was looking into the wrong area - looking above the engine. I just purchased a service manual for RSX and did a search in there. The parts look correct.

I have to be honest on one thing, the reason I looked into the wrong area at first was because I was following a Youtube guide related to Honda Accords and the guy said they are pretty much the same thing. Stupid me.

I think everything is ok now, just need to buy some liquid gasket for the new sensor threads as mentioned inside the manual and I should be ok.

Thanks again!!!!:laughing:

 

See if this is the manual you paid for bud.
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1233649&highlight=02+06+acura+rsx
I still dig paper, but ctrl + F doesn't work in books.

 

Yes!!!!!!!!!

Oh wtf....=.=;;

By the way Halfest, do you have any experience changing out the oil prssure switch? The manual makes it look pretty easy but I am not really the confident type except very basic things but my shop nearby quoted me a couple hundred for this job...so I thought I'd give it a try this time myself.

I am imagining once that switch gets pulled, oil will come rushing out of the engine.

I need to do an oil change anyways so I was thinking of bleeding the car engine oil first, taking out the oil filter and draining it. The oil filter still has another cycle to go before replacement since it is synthetic filter and I change my oil every 5k to 6k KM and I remember synthetic filters from FRAM are good for at least 12k KM.

After engine is empty, I will replace the switch.

The manual says to lube the threads with some liquid gasket, do you have any experience on this area? Is it pretty straight forward?

I am thinking of not jacking my car up this time because everything I need to do seems easily accessible but I am just worried once I do get to everything, the switch will be hard to get to for some odd reason. I have an extended socket with a 1/2" size and quite long of a torque wrench and from eyeing everything, I would probably approach the switch from the top.

Thanks Halfest for letting me know about that link, they compressed it!

 

Drain the oil while the car is flat, then jack it,block it & pop the RF wheel. Put the car keys on the valve cover at the filler cap.
Be patient and make sure the socket is square to the sending unit and you're good.
You may need to experiment with extensions but take your time. Even more so on the install. If it doesn't just spin in at the start, back up and go again.
And please, despite the marketing, a filter catches... I think shit is the technical word. Change it every oil change. $5 on a quality filter.
I use usually teflon thread tape which is the tapey version of liquid gasket (in this application).
Replace wheel and lower car. Start car and check for oil pressure. "Where the hell are my keys?????"
Fill engine with appropriate oil. Nod your head; that's what I meant.
And Bob's your uncle.

 

lol....so many nice tips, I appreciate it Halfast.

Do I have to jack both the front wheels or just RF wheel area and remove the RF wheel? I have not jacked the entire front car up before or the back - just one corner at a time for flat tire changes. I've always had this thought that the car is going to tip over if I do not perfectly balance both sides.

I do have a pair of the drive on low ramps but can't really drive the car once the oil is drained....

Btw, you mentioned teflon tape - is that the tape we use in the drain pipes and kitchens, baths etc around the copper pipe threads or is this one specific to automotives?

Last thing, hand tighten and than 1 turn with wrench is enough or specific torque pound for the sensor? I do not think it says it in the manual~ but I could just be ignorant and missed it.

 

The world could use more folks willing to go balls deep on a new thing. Props.
Just the right side, and pay attention to where the frame is crimped fro the most strength. Jack next to it, put jack stand at the strongest point, lower it slowly to rest softly on the jack stand. Ain't gonna tip over unless you have a broken 2 post lift, and you don't. Big ass garage lift.
And remember, as long as the drain plug is at it's lowest point, like in the rear, you can use drive-ons, but nose clearance has been an issue since like 1985.
Teflon tape, yeah, that stuff.
On anything, especially aluminum, like your switch, you honestly just feel it in your wrist. Not mysticism here, just, you get a feel. I would not go a full turn if you and I have the same "hand tight". But if you can judge a gentle seat, without the torque assist of a ratchet, then 1 turn is OK.

 

Ha....balls deep =-=;;

I'm just curious that's all. Highly respect those who are mechanically inclined. I've never been a techie myself...although I've been picking it up slowly lately.

I've tried the drive on's that I had when I did my very first oil change a couple months ago and these are quite good. So would it be ok if I used the drive ons?

Halfest, you know I think I made a little mistake again. I think the Rocker Arm Switch located on the Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoid Assembly was the real culprit in the first place for the P2647 code and it is different from the Oil Pressure Switch. I keep getting the two confused.

I purchased the oil pressure switch and should have also purchased the Rocker Arm Oil Control Switch too. I actually thought the oil pressure switch went into where the Rocket Arm Oil Control Switch was supposed to go LOL xD!!! Ah I am so stupid...

I am looking at the manual and the assembly for the entire Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoid Assembly seems quite straight forward to take off the block. 4 bolts. Do you have any suggestions in this area? Any experience ?

I am thinking of cleaning the filter inside with some brake cleaner, what do you think? I mean I might as well, once the assembly comes off, the oil pressure switch will be easily assessible I think.

I am a little confused in one aspect though, some call the oil pressure switch a sensor and some just call it a switch. Is there an official term for it at the end? The manual is calling it a switch.

Whatever I am doing, I will be draining the engine as clean as possible before taking any bolts, switches off to minimize oil spills...

One last question, does the oil pressure switch have any o-rings? Inside the manual I did not see any o-rings for it although there are o-rings for the Rocker Arm Oil Control Switch component.

Thanks a bunch bro~:thumbsup:

 

Damn me. That code is for the VTEC solenoid valve. It's actually 3 bolts; I think the oddball bolt is for a cover. And yes, clean the filter.

Most people use switch and sensor interchangeably, so you won't get your card pulled for calling it either one. More specifically a switch is open/closed while a sensor measures variations in voltage, input signal, etc.

To a switch, everything is black & white, on or off. Switch ain't got time to mess around.
A sensor, on the other hand, is very, well, sensitive. It's right in the name. Sensor wants to know your car's full range of emotional well-being.
Switch is beer. Sensor is wine.

No o-ring on the engine oil pressure switch. O-rings are usually used against a machined mating surface, such as a head or block, and are squeezed into place. An o-ring should never be on a threaded shaft, as screwing it in will deform the o-ring.

 

Hey Halfast,

Thanks for so much info. I was in town to buy the Rocker Arm Oil Control Switch but it seems my local car shop does not carry it. They said it is a manufacture specific part...

I just ordered one in from Ebay so going to wait for a week or 2 before going to pick it up.

So I am guessing no o-ring for both switches or just no o-ring for the oil pressure switch beside the oil filter? I'd imagine both switches are threaded but on the youtube video for the honda accord, it seems its vtec rocker arm oil control switch has an o-ring and the guy used a long hook to hook out the o-ring. The rocker arm oil control switch I purchased does not seem to have any o-ring in its product listing images.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142143697208?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I wanted to add some unrelated info...

I am quite a late bloomer in terms of learning about cars. I just recently got into doing basic car maintenance with my car. Before it was just the VERY basics - windshield wiper, windshield fluids, battery and some lightbulbs and air filters...

The transmission oil change and engine oil change was en eye opener for me. I actually screwed up the first time on the transmission oil by not screwing the drain bolt tight enough and wondering why the transmission fluid level kept dropping as I test started the car. Scared the hell out of me ha...that I immediately crawled down and went popeyes on the drain bolt while car was on before realizing I almost went too hard and could have stripped the area >.<;;..

Mechanics is not fun...especially for noobs~ ok lame story ya...

My car runs "Fine" except going into safe mode here and than. This has actually been going on for a couple years but my car shop would just always clear the code. It would come back and I'd just drive the car in safe mode without really knowing what was wrong. I asked them and they said it's nothing major. The CEL would just come on and off from time to time. Sometimes within days, sometimes weeks and than there were months as well in terms of the on and off interval - just very random.

It seems to go off longer in sub-zero temperatures, so during winter time, and more apparent during summer being on.

Initially I thought it had something to do with the engine oil I put into my car from the last oil change. This has is not modified in anyways - bought it new since 2004 stock.

The last oil change, - around 4500 km ago I put in a castrol high mileage synthetic blend (I thought that was pure synthetic, stupid me again lol). The oil seemed rather thick some forum people said online and I noticed it turned dark quite quickly after only driving the car very shortly. Not sure if this is normal. Currently, the car is around 118000 km on the odometer.

I am going to be putting in mobil 1 now because many people are saying this is a good oil. I hope it just keeps this car going as long as possible, it's my daily driver xD.

 

Mayday! Mayday!

The rocker arm oil control switch I purchased does not seem to have any o-ring in its product listing images.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/142143697208?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Unless you copied the wrong link, you ordered an air conditioner compressor switch.

Regarding the example image, well, I stand corrected. I've probably done those deals dozens of times without it even registering.
Regarding limp mode, my thought is that cleaning the VTEC solenoid screen and maintaining proper oil level eliminates the problem. Since you've got a recent history of low levels, I'd recommend checking it at least weekly. Remember to check it when it's warmed up, and give it a minute to drain the upper end into the pan.
Higher RPM driving will accelerate oil consumption, and hitting VTEC even more so. I have 190k (miles) and run Mobil1 0W-20. Especially with you being in Vancouver, I suggest that oil. And it's "specially formulated for most Toyotas and Hondas". Pretty much it's developed for those VTEC motors. Smaller numbers mean the oil will flow better in colder temps and is thinner. Higher numbers means thicker oil that turns to molasses when it gets too cold.

 

like this one has an o-ring but is also threaded right? this is not related to my car~ just an example if I am understanding this right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Pressur...130&meid=dc3d3e0a47584920ae2ee06b02b431c0&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=142143697208

 

Yep, part number crosses to that. The A/C, CM Compressor w/a compressor pic background, and related categories are all air conditioning.
My apologies, I should have right clicked one extra time.

 

You are right!!! T_T

aiiii i should have done more research. I think i just found the right part - a little more pricier than an a/c switch...

37250-PRB-A01

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http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=15&_nkw=37250-PRB-A01&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

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https://parts.sonsacura.com/showAss...42&ukey_make=987&ukey_model=13646&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=0

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no pain, no gain haha xD....

 

hmm halfast, something confuses me, can you help?

I just checked again on the sonsacura website and the old parts number is showing up again.

can you try it out as well to see if you're getting the same or a different parts number?

https://parts.sonsacura.com/

it is in the engine section, vtc, part #13 on the blow up map.

 

Hey halfast,

I just called into acura to confirm the parts...the A/C was the correct part, parts number matched unless the listing is just plain flat out wrong... I just hope nothing surprising happens once i install it or maybe i should just buy a genuine part instead...

 

I'm not even going to guess at this point, I just hope you get the right part. Personally, and I know a lot of people think it's stupid, but I go to the local dealer on stuff that's not so run of the mill. It may cost more, but I can eliminate a bit of doubt, and usually take it home that day.
The listing on Sons does look correct.

 

Hey Halfast,

Thanks for supporting and replying, I appreciate everything.

Yes, I just purchased a completel Vtec assembly -the solenoid, gasket with the switch on top of it. I think this is just the safer route to go in the end.

I mean worse comes to worst, if the "A/C" switch for some odd reason busts up my vtec assembly, I can quickly swap in the new one.

The dealer says normally the vtec assembly is sold as a whole although they gave me part numbers for the rocker arm oil control switch as well so I was a little confused there at first. I am just curious if the switch can even be removed - unbolted.

The dealer sells the o-rings and everything though so I will be grabbing those off from them later.

I'll see how things go and post an update here